DPF Warning with Delete Pipe

[camNS]

Hi All. First time poster, but I've been benefiting from your collective knowledge for a while so thankyou.

Anyway, I've got ongoing DPF issues with my 07 NS. Timeline goes a bit like this:
- Bought vehicle around Jan 2016
- It is my Wife and I's only car, but she catches the bus to work and I work from home so it doesn't really get driven daily. A few short trips, and longer trips every weekend.
- No DPF issues until a few months ago
- Had the warning light come on a few times and go off on its own
- Eventually the warning light came on and stayed on for about 1.5 hours (of continuous highway driving) before eventually going to flashing + CEL + limp
- Local mech tried to force regen and failed (I've read here since that this is expected)
- Took it to the one and only dealer we have in Hobart who did two forced regens + oil changes before they could make it stay off
- I bought a DPF delete pipe, but the light was off and we had a trip away planned for Easter so I didn't want to risk doing anything before that.
- However, last weekend the warning light came on AGAIN. After 45 min of highway driving it went out so I took it straight home and did the pipe swap.
- All went well with the pipe swap. I've looped back the pressure pipes, plugged up the holes in the delete pipe and swapped the temp sensor over.
- Went away this weekend which involved about 2.5 hours of highway driving each way. On the way back today warning light comes on again mid cruising, then after about 1.5 hours on the highway CEL + limp. Luckily we were nearly home.


What are my options? I've read that the temp sensor has been the issue on a couple of people's cars with the delete pipe fitted? I'm hesitant to take it back to the dealer at all with the delete pipe fitted. Should they theoretically be able to diagnose a temp sensor, and clear the CEL without the DPF fitted? Or does the DPF need to go back on either way?

ta

[Stoneman]

You need a Mutt

How many k's between burns?
Sounds like temp sensors

Replace the temps sensors in the dpf with resistors (pm me and I tell you the ones you need)

If it's in limp mode it's too late and the codes will need clearing with a mut 3 first

Good luck, many a man have travelled this path and there is a lot of crap out there

Hope you don't get dragged down that path

Been years since I've had any issues with my dpf

[Merts]

Sounds very much like a temp sensor issue to me too.

You are correct that taking it to a dealer with the delete pipe on will almost certainly result in them automatically blaming that for the errors.

[camNS]

You need a Mutt

How many k's between burns?
Sounds like temp sensors

Replace the temps sensors in the dpf with resistors (pm me and I tell you the ones you need)

If it's in limp mode it's too late and the codes will need clearing with a mut 3 first

Good luck, many a man have travelled this path and there is a lot of crap out there

Hope you don't get dragged down that path

Been years since I've had any issues with my dpf

Thanks for the response. It was probably around 300kms between the warning light last weekend and the one this weekend. This is what it is supposed to be for the periodic burn isn't it?

Will send PM. ta

Sounds very much like a temp sensor issue to me too.

You are correct that taking it to a dealer with the delete pipe on will almost certainly result in them automatically blaming that for the errors.

Thanks. Theoretically, if I were to fit the resistors then manage to convince the dealer to just reset the codes with the delete pipe fitted is this possible?

Or do I have to refit DPF, take it to dealer, try and convince them that it is most likely the temp sensor, get them to do the minimum to reset the codes, give it back to me and then I have 300km to do the resistor mod?

It doesn't help that the only dealer in Hobart is extremely busy currently and last time they couldn't fit me in for a week.

[Stoneman]

its hard to say

if you get a good dealer they should help you out

last dealer i went to years ago i got a reply, and i quote "the computer said you had one" and shrugged his shoulders......and that's all that was said.

[Matty_P]

Similiar issues with my NS in recent weeks. Just had a service by my local guy on this forum he has done several services and very happy. A few days later DPF light came on hard for first time in over 2 years, couldn't do a highway run as it was chockers with peak hour traffic, went home then CEL light and limp mode.
Took it to the local dealer (273,000kms) they did a forced regen and redid the oil as it had been diluted, they reset the the oil dilution setting (didnt know about this but it's supposed to be done each service). They do some recall work on the airbag(changed my clockspring from china....$80 labour ...lovely)...reflash the ECU.A couple of hundred $$ later and i am on my way...

A week goes by and DPF light hard on again.....same same regen....new oil....no charge this time. They also did what they called a "DPF malfunction service" or similiar which should have been done at the previous regen....B.S???...don't know.

Go away for a week camping 1100kms later towing the SWAN outback and DPF light comes on as i pull into my street....WTF ...lucky but unlucky.....back to the dealer last Monday...this time no codes, oil is fine, did another regen no charge..
Pissing me off but the dealer has been really good no complaints there. Seriously looking at a BT50 now can't afford to not have a reliable car.......interesting this time no codes and oil level is fine. They said the DPF and sensors check out fine....

[P4J3R0]

Best option is to remove DPF and take to a tuner to have the ecu reprogrammed so the DPF doesn't exist and will never be a problem ever again.

Cheap skate way is, DPF delete pipe, loop pressure pipes, replace temp sensors with resistors.

I did have a small issue (because the speedo sensor was mashed when the transfer case started to self district) before I installed the resistors and had to do a regen (bought a MUTT as the dealer is an hour away). That was 40,000km ago, no dramas since.

[Stoneman]

Best option is to remove DPF and take to a tuner to have the ecu reprogrammed so the DPF doesn't exist and will never be a problem ever again.

Cheap skate way is, DPF delete pipe, loop pressure pipes, replace temp sensors with resistors.

I did have a small issue (because the speedo sensor was mashed when the transfer case started to self district) before I installed the resistors and had to do a regen (bought a MUTT as the dealer is an hour away). That was 40,000km ago, no dramas since.

Are you still running the resistors?

[Stoneman]

You can find the plugs on line or go to a wreckers and make them easy enough
They don't stop the burn rather just keep the ecu happy
Having a delete pipe will give better flow and drop temps making it harder for the temps to be reached
Your burns will eventually be 600 km apart regardless of driving behaviour instead of the average 300 odd
The ecu uses calculations to work out when it thinks a periodical burn will be done with it completing perfect burns every time it will slowly increase the time between burns

These are the ones I gave slo78u

I'm not sure why it's a cheap skates way
You can also have the EGR deleted from a remap also

It will also complete a forced regen with the resistors.

Testing done during a regen some time ago now seen a 200 degree drop in temps in the delete pipe using the resistors
Ecu than calculates that less fuel is needed to reach temps
Remember the fuel for the burn is pre injected so it's being wasted. (That said it's minimal)
I personally don't think you need to do a forced regen when resistors are installed but I did.

I now just have a unit that stops them all together but that's another story.

[Ky1e]

I now just have a unit that stops them all together but that's another story.

Which unit is this?

[MatthewP]

You can find the plugs on line or go to a wreckers and make them easy enough
They don't stop the burn rather just keep the ecu happy
Having a delete pipe will give better flow and drop temps making it harder for the temps to be reached
.

Slightly off topic question, and i know that the resistors would work better, but couldn't the wiring of the temp sensor be ectended, so the temp sensor could be mounted in the exhaust manifold.

That way the sensor would see pre turbo egt's.
So you could use a Scangauge as an Egt gauge.
And the temps should be high enough to fool the burn.

But its mostly the posibility of using the existing sensor as a free EGT gauge that im curious about.

Matt.

[P4J3R0]

You can find the plugs on line or go to a wreckers and make them easy enough
They don't stop the burn rather just keep the ecu happy
Having a delete pipe will give better flow and drop temps making it harder for the temps to be reached
Your burns will eventually be 600 km apart regardless of driving behaviour instead of the average 300 odd
The ecu uses calculations to work out when it thinks a periodical burn will be done with it completing perfect burns every time it will slowly increase the time between burns

These are the ones I gave slo78u

I'm not sure why it's a cheap skates way
You can also have the EGR deleted from a remap also

It will also complete a forced regen with the resistors.

Testing done during a regen some time ago now seen a 200 degree drop in temps in the delete pipe using the resistors
Ecu than calculates that less fuel is needed to reach temps
Remember the fuel for the burn is pre injected so it's being wasted. (That said it's minimal)
I personally don't think you need to do a forced regen when resistors are installed but I did.

I now just have a unit that stops them all together but that's another story.

Yeah mate, thanks for making them, still using them, they are great.

It's the cheap skate way as its cheaper than the $1500 to reprogram the ecu.

There is a unit that I think stoneman may be using where it resets the km traveled every km so as to never reach the required distance to need a burn.

[P4J3R0]

Slightly off topic question, and i know that the resistors would work better, but couldn't the wiring of the temp sensor be ectended, so the temp sensor could be mounted in the exhaust manifold.

That way the sensor would see pre turbo egt's.
So you could use a Scangauge as an Egt gauge.
And the temps should be high enough to fool the burn.

But its mostly the posibility of using the existing sensor as a free EGT gauge that im curious about.

Matt.

Hey Matt,
This is what I looked into but the problems I encountered were.
There are 3 exhaust temp sensors
You can only access the one in the middle for exhaust temp display on a scangauge
This is the one that needs the resistor mod to reduce burn time and ensure the correct temp is reached

Required temp for burns is just over 600deg, normal temp is 200-300. The resistor just tells the computer that everything is at the perfect temp.

I think a good tuner would be able to delet the dpf process out of the ecu and with a bit of luck leave the sensor active to use as a egr. Remember retuning is not a cheap process.

Cheers

[MatthewP]

Hey Matt,
This is what I looked into but the problems I encountered were.
There are 3 exhaust temp sensors
You can only access the one in the middle for exhaust temp display on a scangauge
This is the one that needs the resistor mod to reduce burn time and ensure the correct temp is reached

Required temp for burns is just over 600deg, normal temp is 200-300. The resistor just tells the computer that everything is at the perfect temp.

Cheers

Thanks Slo78u

I knew that someone else would have had the same idea.

Matt.

[Stoneman]

Thanks Slo78u

I knew that someone else would have had the same idea.

Matt.

The ecu is not actually interested in the temp sensors until a burn is requested by the ecu

I've thought about your way Matt in the early days but your manifold is not always over 600 degrees and I wasn't keen on drilling holes everywhere to find a suitable place that "may or may not work"
The resistors even sitting at the lights as long as it's left in gear will still complete the burn

If the ecu sees the temp out of range for certain period during the burn that's when problems start and the ecu starts re calculating as it thinks there s a problem
A faulty temp sensor etc can cause these issues along with temp sensors in the wrong place for example

That said there is many ways to skin a cat