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Gen 4 Factory locker - on any time

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  • nj swb
    Resident
    • Jun 2007
    • 7332
    • Adelaide

    Gen 4 Factory locker - on any time

    I've seen the question asked a couple of times about engaging the factory rear diff lock in 2H, or presumably any other time.

    Looking at the wiring diagram here engaging the rear diff lock seems relatively straight forward - but this is all from looking at the diagram(s). I haven't done any testing, partly because I'm too lazy, but largely because I don't have access to a Pajero with factory rear diff lock.

    From the diagram, it appears that to lock the rear diff:
    1. the transfer ecu supplies power to the air compressor motor, which presumably closes the release valve
    2. a separate pressure switch cuts power to the motor when there is sufficient pressure.

    To unlock the rear diff:
    1. the transfer ecu cuts power from the motor and release valve, which presumably releases pressure in the system and allows a spring / other mechanism to unlock the diff.

    I'm guessing the ecu switches 12 V to the air compressor, and not some lesser PWM voltage. It shouldn't be too hard to check that with a multi-meter.

    So that appears pretty simple to organise, except there is feedback from the rear diff to the ecu to indicate that the diff is locked. If this signal arrives without the ecu issuing the lock signal this could cause an error, so it would probably be necessary to interrupt this signal.

    The transfer ecu also turns on the rear diff lock light on the dash by pulling a pin to ground. This same pin is connected to HBB, EBD, ABS and ASTC, so it might be necessary to manipulate these wires if you want to illuminate the light without informing the other systems that the diff is locked. Or, you might want the ASTC to know the diff is locked, so traction control doesn't attempt to interfere while the driver is doing whatever it is for which the driver wants the rear diff locked.

    Alternative option:

    The wiring diagram shows a single input into the ecu indicating that the centre diff is locked. If this is the only pre-requisite for locking the rear diff, it may be a simple as grounding that wire whenever the driver wants to override this factory limitation. Of course, the transfer ecu could get upset with a signal that the centre diff is locked when it's not expecting it to be.

    Additionally, I believe there is an inbuilt speed limit, that automatically unlocks the rear diff above a certain speed - attempting this alternative option will still allow the transfer ecu to unlock the diff as it sees fit, which may not fit the driver's requirements.
    NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

    Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

    Scorpro Explorer Box
  • Just Cruzin
    Valued Member
    • Jul 2014
    • 501
    • Pakenham

    #2
    I thought the bigger question was engaging 2wd low range for reversing the van.
    99 NL Exceed with air in tyres

    Comment

    • Ian H
      Valued Member
      • May 2015
      • 2496
      • Melbourne

      #3
      What scenario would require the diff to be locked while in 2H ?

      To me, diff lock is the last option I have to get me going like I had to on a steep rock climb. But I was in 4LLC by then anyway.
      2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.

      Comment

      • twisted32
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2015
        • 303
        • Adelaide

        #4
        Originally posted by nj swb View Post
        I've seen the question asked a couple of times about engaging the factory rear diff lock in 2H, or presumably any other time.

        Looking at the wiring diagram here engaging the rear diff lock seems relatively straight forward - but this is all from looking at the diagram(s). I haven't done any testing, partly because I'm too lazy, but largely because I don't have access to a Pajero with factory rear diff lock.

        From the diagram, it appears that to lock the rear diff:
        1. the transfer ecu supplies power to the air compressor motor, which presumably closes the release valve
        2. a separate pressure switch cuts power to the motor when there is sufficient pressure.

        To unlock the rear diff:
        1. the transfer ecu cuts power from the motor and release valve, which presumably releases pressure in the system and allows a spring / other mechanism to unlock the diff.

        I'm guessing the ecu switches 12 V to the air compressor, and not some lesser PWM voltage. It shouldn't be too hard to check that with a multi-meter.

        So that appears pretty simple to organise, except there is feedback from the rear diff to the ecu to indicate that the diff is locked. If this signal arrives without the ecu issuing the lock signal this could cause an error, so it would probably be necessary to interrupt this signal.

        The transfer ecu also turns on the rear diff lock light on the dash by pulling a pin to ground. This same pin is connected to HBB, EBD, ABS and ASTC, so it might be necessary to manipulate these wires if you want to illuminate the light without informing the other systems that the diff is locked. Or, you might want the ASTC to know the diff is locked, so traction control doesn't attempt to interfere while the driver is doing whatever it is for which the driver wants the rear diff locked.

        Alternative option:

        The wiring diagram shows a single input into the ecu indicating that the centre diff is locked. If this is the only pre-requisite for locking the rear diff, it may be a simple as grounding that wire whenever the driver wants to override this factory limitation. Of course, the transfer ecu could get upset with a signal that the centre diff is locked when it's not expecting it to be.





        Additionally, I believe there is an inbuilt speed limit, that automatically unlocks the rear diff above a certain speed - attempting this alternative option will still allow the transfer ecu to unlock the diff as it sees fit, which may not fit the driver's requirements.



        In red above, I beg to differ
        MY14 GLX Pajero DID auto with Lift, 265/70 R17 Yoki X-AT's, Full Bushskinz plates , Scotts Rods 3" TBE, Johnny Tig FMIC, TME ECU remap, Provent, OL Bullbar, Ironman 9500lbs winch, dual batteries, Lockup mate lite, nomad valve body, aeroflow AF72-6000 transmission cooler with 9" fan and radiator cooler bypass, 3.15 reduction gears, traction contol mod (on/off), Uniden 8080S, flappy paddles, Rhino flat rack mounted on ARB rails, 42" Stedi ST3K light bar and custom drawers

        Comment

        • nj swb
          Resident
          • Jun 2007
          • 7332
          • Adelaide

          #5
          Originally posted by twisted32 View Post
          In red above, I beg to differ
          OK, so I'm too lazy to access a factory rear diff lock.
          NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

          Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

          Scorpro Explorer Box

          Comment

          • nj swb
            Resident
            • Jun 2007
            • 7332
            • Adelaide

            #6
            I've looked in a little more detail, I think it can all be done with three wires at connector D228, which looks like its on the transmission tunnel, but we might need to go searching for it.

            We can even use the detection switch to drive the light on the dash, so you'll get real confirmation that the diff is locked.

            First, confirm that the compressor does get full voltage, and not some lesser PWM level. The service manual specifies testing it with "battery voltage", so there's a good chance it's simple.

            You'll need a DPDT relay (to make the light work) and a 10A DPDT switch (switch the compressor & the relay). Or a 10 A 3PDT switch, but that might be a little harder to find.

            Plus a 10A fused power source to run the compressor, if you don't already have one available.

            When the switch is off, factory configuration, works as per normal.

            When the switch is on, rear diff is locked, and the dash light should be on. The ecu won't know it's locked, and can't turn it off for you.

            Using the factory switch to turn on the locker while it's already on could cause an error code, depending on how the factory system is programmed.

            When do you want to do this?

            Edit: updated the switch requirements - SPDT switch isn't enough.
            NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

            Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

            Scorpro Explorer Box

            Comment

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