Below Nav Bar Ad Module

Collapse

NS or NT pajero

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Pauly
    Member
    • Feb 2009
    • 242

    NS or NT pajero

    Hi Guys,

    I've decided it's time to upgrade from the old NJ to a newer model diesel. Looking at an NS or NT and just wondering if there are any major differences between the two. The same money will get an NS with low km's or an NT with mid km's so just wondering if there is an advantage to go for the NT. Also what point is the major service due on them, is it around 100,000kms?

    Cheers,
    Pauly
  • Seigried
    Valued Member
    • Apr 2016
    • 732
    • brisbane

    #2
    If your after a diesel the manual NS has no dpf. Unsure if the same goes for the manual NT.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

    Comment

    • MELONHEAD
      Member
      • Apr 2010
      • 155
      • Curlewis NSW

      #3
      Go for the NT every time. If buying an auto, the NS has DPF where NT does not (except early 2009 NT with passive DPF). If buying manual, the NS has a dual mass flywheel where the NT does not. This means a 2010 model or newer NT will have no DPF and no dual mass flywheel. As far as I am concerned these two reasons are more than enough to skip the NS and go for a 2010 + model NT. I just recently upgraded my NL to an NT and this is the criteria I used. The only NS I would consider would have the DPF delete done if an auto, and a solid flywheel conversion if a manual.
      Last edited by MELONHEAD; 13-12-17, 09:05 AM.
      2010 NT RX diesel manual, bushskinz intercooler + sump guards, factory alloy bulbar, GME TX3400 UHF, Donaldson secondary fuel filter, Bilstein/Kings/Polyair lift, Hankook Dynapro ATM 265/70/17.
      1998 NL GLS V6 auto LWB with ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, ALDI 9500lb winch, ARB onboard compressor, Hankook Dynapro AT/M 265/70/16s.

      Comment

      • Hatto
        Valued Member
        • Nov 2013
        • 1208
        • Mandurah WA

        #4
        I think the first major service is at 90k. Better transmission in the NT as well. It has the aisin as opposed to the Jatco in the NS. Slightly more power and torque in the NT onwards too. NS I think had about 128kw and 420Nm (or about that if I am wrong) whereas the NT onwards has 147kw and 450Nm I think. For these reasons as well as the dual mass flywheel, and NS DPF issues, I'd never chose a NS over a NT.
        Cheers, Hatto

        2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
        ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

        Comment

        • Pauly
          Member
          • Feb 2009
          • 242

          #5
          Thanks guys, great info

          Comment

          • Pauly
            Member
            • Feb 2009
            • 242

            #6
            Originally posted by MELONHEAD View Post
            Go for the NT every time. If buying an auto, the NS has DPF where NT does not (except early 2009 NT with passive DPF). If buying manual, the NS has a dual mass flywheel where the NT does not. This means a 2010 model or newer NT will have no DPF and no dual mass flywheel. As far as I am concerned these two reasons are more than enough to skip the NS and go for a 2010 + model NT. I just recently upgraded my NL to an NT and this is the criteria I used. The only NS I would consider would have the DPF delete done if an auto, and a solid flywheel conversion if a manual.
            Is there a way to tell if a 2009 NT has the passive DPF fitted? I've found a nice VRX but it's a 2009 NT so might be worth checking out. Also, how much trouble does the passive DPF cause compared to the NS's DPF?

            Comment

            • Seigried
              Valued Member
              • Apr 2016
              • 732
              • brisbane

              #7
              My NS has a smf fitted. Its about $1100 in parts plus labour to convert from dual to single mass. I think the key here is to ask any seller if they know and be aware of the cost if they lied.

              Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

              Comment

              • nj swb
                Resident
                • Jun 2007
                • 7332
                • Adelaide

                #8
                My NT has the passive (or "open") Dpf, and it has zero issues. No sensors to worry about, or burn-offs to trigger. Apparently it's very much like a catalytic converter.
                NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                Scorpro Explorer Box

                Comment

                • MELONHEAD
                  Member
                  • Apr 2010
                  • 155
                  • Curlewis NSW

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Pauly View Post
                  Is there a way to tell if a 2009 NT has the passive DPF fitted? I've found a nice VRX but it's a 2009 NT so might be worth checking out. Also, how much trouble does the passive DPF cause compared to the NS's DPF?
                  Check the owners handbook to see if it mentions anything about DPF. If not, no DPF fitted. Also check the exhaust system to see if there is a large heavily heat shielded cylindrical box in the area under the car below the passenger seat, or just a straight exhaust section.

                  As nj swb said, there are very few troubles with the passive DPF, but I think you may still need to use special low ash engine oil with the DPF. Can someone confirm this? Without DPF low ash oil is not required.
                  2010 NT RX diesel manual, bushskinz intercooler + sump guards, factory alloy bulbar, GME TX3400 UHF, Donaldson secondary fuel filter, Bilstein/Kings/Polyair lift, Hankook Dynapro ATM 265/70/17.
                  1998 NL GLS V6 auto LWB with ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, ALDI 9500lb winch, ARB onboard compressor, Hankook Dynapro AT/M 265/70/16s.

                  Comment

                  • Gkarssen1978
                    Junior Member
                    • Apr 2018
                    • 13
                    • South australia

                    #10
                    I have ns and yes the dpf is deleted with egr block as well been great since then. The dpf was a problem for sure but I'm happy now with it.

                    Comment

                    • Trisome
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2012
                      • 310
                      • Bray Park

                      #11
                      Go the NT for all the reasons above, my add on is I think they changed the auto between the 2 to a better one.

                      Trisome
                      2007 VRX, Cold Air, HPD Intercooler, 3" Exhaust, Just Autos Tune, Lovels Springs, EFS Shockies.

                      Comment

                      Matched content

                      Collapse
                      Working...
                      X