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Well done flyboy, great write up on a what seems like a simple task that goes pear shaped easily 
OJ.
OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 . -
"Now, why does the bolt fail in the first place. Probably a combination of over tensioning the nut after making an adjustment to belt tension, combined with it is only a short 10mm thread stub,"
You are probably correct in the overtightening bit, but if this bolt is too loose, it can be subjected to vibrations, and over time, they will cause fatigue of the bolt at the weakest point. So therefore it is vital that you tighten the bolt to the specified torque to minimise the number of load fluctuations the bolt will experience in its lifetime.Comment
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If anyone is interested in the future, it looks like the bolt adjuster come with the pulley (part number 7813A136 )
Silver NT VRX Di-D
ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches
My Build Thread - HERE
Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')Comment
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Wasn’t me that did the write up! I just commented on how well it was written.
All credit to PaulMcGComment
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Old thread, but now I have same problem. Bolt just snapped when I was torquing nut up to right torq.
Already ordered new pulley with bolt and nut and also noticed that changing the bolt is PITA.
I was just wondering that I don't want to disassemble compressor and bracket, but if I just make a hole large enough to bracket sliding slot (that slot where bold slides up and down when pulley is tightened or loosened) that allows me to pull bolt out and insert new one. Of course that hole must be at bottom of sliding slot so it wont pop out, the pulley seems to be more or less in the middle position of that sliding slot when in place so should not be a problem.
I give it a go when I get the spare parts, need to measure diameter of the hole to allot bolt to slide in/out and of course need to figure out is there enough room to make that hole. Will update here as soon as the job is done, or if it impossible to do..Pajero 2010 3.2TD 147kW AutomaticComment
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Finally..
So I managed to replace the pulley bolt without removing the bracket. It may not be "accepted" fix, but it does feel very solid even when bracket was cut. Pulley tighten the assembly so I believe it will hold, but I'll keep my eye on it. I cut bracket with angle grinder with worn out blade that was small enough to fit and it was very easy to cut.
Here are some pics of the process, I made one extra cut that was not needed (I did not remove material there). Also there was crank sensor (?) that I could not remove, as I was afraid to damage it, so I made another cut to to end of bracket to get old bolt out and new in:
Bracket cut, crank sensor tilted out of the way to remove old bolt. Unnecessary cut on the right.
New bolt in place, at the lowest position.
Pulley and belt installed, at the lowest point.
Belt tightened.
Angle grinder with worn blade, that did the work.Pajero 2010 3.2TD 147kW AutomaticComment
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