L\H rear driveshaft and hub stuffed

[shawty950]

Agreed, as I mentioned in previous post I'm 75kg and to tighten the right 36mm nut I had to stand on breaker bar n bounce up and down. Left one undid with just the weight of the breaker bar by itself.
Hard to over tighten.

[bezender]

I'm also having some rear end woes with my NS (as you can see here for a poorly worded description of the problems... tried my best not to sound like an ad for ultra tune). http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=39348

Prior to a 1200km round trip for the long weekend to the station that my brother in law runs I re-torqued the axle bolts. Just like the previous reports, the split pin was a bastard thanks to being in an S shape, but the rear left undid without too much fuss whilst the rear right was tight as a nuns. This stopped the whine/groan that i was getting from the rear end, and it also noticeably reduced the knocking sound.

The knocking sound has returned after the trip all be it quieter than before. im sure this can be attributed to corrugated roads and bouncing over rocks and through mud. I torqued it up as much as my 105kg would allow.

The car is going in for a service this Friday, and since i changed my oil and filter before i left, im going to see if they will re-seat the drive shafts with all new pins, cir-clips that funny crown cover over the axle nut and change diff oil for me in lieu of an oil change.

I'll report back if they find anything interesting.

I do have a question... how many of the people experiencing this issue have a lift kit?

Cheers

Carl

[shanny]

So that explains the knock!! Was wondering what the hell it was!! Comes on when I accelerate after a gear change. I'll get the mech to look at it, have to get some stuff done and will take it in.

[kiwi1973]

For doing this job DIY I note the Mitsubishi workshop manual indicates a special tool called a 'hub & flange yolk holder' is needed when loosening tightening the hub nut, supposedly to protect the wheel bearing from being damaged. Is this tool really necessary? Can you not just take the cars weight off the wheel bearing by supporting it on jack and axle stands?

[Axis]

For doing this job DIY I note the Mitsubishi workshop manual indicates a special tool called a 'hub & flange yolk holder' is needed when loosening tightening the hub nut, supposedly to protect the wheel bearing from being damaged. Is this tool really necessary? Can you not just take the cars weight off the wheel bearing by supporting it on jack and axle stands?

Not sure about the special tool kiwi but I used an axle stand to support the socket extension.

[bezender]

had the service done, MMA inspected the hubs and drive shafts and all is well with them. I also had the diff oils changed in lieu of an oil/filter change and everything is now a lot quieter and tighter.

im 99% sure all the noises from the rear end can be attributed to either the bottle jack knocking about in its mount, or a full tank of diesel, or drive line lash.


Im still curious though, do the others who experience this bolt loosening itself have a lift kit, or does this occur with standard suspension as well?

[Axis]

had the service done, MMA inspected the hubs and drive shafts and all is well with them. I also had the diff oils changed in lieu of an oil/filter change and everything is now a lot quieter and tighter.

im 99% sure all the noises from the rear end can be attributed to either the bottle jack knocking about in its mount, or a full tank of diesel, or drive line lash.

Im still curious though, do the others who experience this bolt loosening itself have a lift kit, or does this occur with standard suspension as well?

Mine was standard suspension. has a lift now though.

[shawty950]

Quoting myself as an update...

Thanks to this and other threads I went and bought the 36mm socket and checked both rears after a progressively noisier clunk appearing 20,000k ago...manual says 185 ft/lbs +/- 21 ft/lbs (IIRC)

Right Rear - approx 16" breaker bar, standing on it ( I am 75kgs ), and bouncing up and down, tightened a 1/16 of a turn.

Left rear - put breaker bar on to undo( and reseat shaft in splines) and the weight of just the breaker undid the nut... WTF

So anyways I move the shaft inboard/outboard to reseat splines and then tighten by the aforementioned jumping (bouncing) on the breaker and get it to approximately the same tension as the right rear.

Driveline clunk on/off thottle in selected gear is gone.

Will mention at next service in case there is damage as mentioned by OP.

This should really be something that all gen 4 owners should be checking.

My mate and his father also have an NW and NT respectively, and will be something that will get checked next time they are over for a coldie.

Shawty


?

Well, I thought it was fixed, but think there is damage already done.
90% of the clunk has gone but there is a definite noise shifting forward to reverse or reverse to forward when one comes to a stop.

I can reproduce in the garage by shifting forward to reverse with out coming to a full stop(very slow speed and not much throttle load).

Mine is just short of 90,000k's and had a lift in it for 5,000.

Just checked a mates 1 year old, 20,000k, NW and while the nut didn't "fall" off like mine did, it only needed a whack with my hand and it was undone.

Booking it in for an early service next week and will get them to investigate and do a warranty job.

They have been great about warranty items previously, so hopefully it wont be a $h1t fight.

Will keep everyone updated.

Shawty

[bezender]

i might be barking up the wrong tree, but have you checked out for the amount of lash in the tail shaft, it could make that clunk?

REAR AXLE TOTAL BACKLASH CHECK





1.Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface.

2.Move the transmission control lever to the neutral position or the selector lever to the "N" position. Then place the transfer sift lever to the "2H" position. Apply the parking brake. Raise the vehicle on a jack.

3.Turn the companion flange clockwise as far as it will go. Make the mating mark on the dust cover of the companion flange and on the differential carrier.

4.Turn the companion flange anti-clockwise as far as it will go, and measure the amount of distance the mating marks moved.
Limit: 5 mm
5.If the backlash exceeds the limit value, remove the differential carrier assembly and check the following.

[shawty950]

Well, I thought it was fixed, but think there is damage already done.
90% of the clunk has gone but there is a definite noise shifting forward to reverse or reverse to forward when one comes to a stop.

I can reproduce in the garage by shifting forward to reverse with out coming to a full stop(very slow speed and not much throttle load).

~snip

Will keep everyone updated.

Shawty

So, the short story is that even though I told them what had happened, during the service, they tightened it again, but did not inspect as asked.

Note on the service document said "Yeah there is a knock, need more time to diagnose"...when I read this on picking up, I asked the service reception girl "Did the mechanic even remove it" to which I got a "They are NOT mechanic's, they are Technicians...and no they didn't", I then asked to see the workshop supervisor...to which I was told I'd have to bring it back in for an inspection.
Service reception girl was getting a bit stroppy with me by this time, so I booked it in again for the next week and left muttering obscenities under my breath.

It goes back in on the day, I got a different service reception person to put down as much info as she could in the short time she had...I go to work.

2 hours later I get a call from the "Technician" working on the car wanting more information.

I went thru the whole scenario as detailed in previous posts, I got the "dont believe everything you read on forums" and "never heard of that before". I again told him, "36mm nut was less than finger tight, I tightened it, it got 90% better, you guys tightened it again, it got better again" the rear shaft really needs to be removed and checked...to which he said "it's a big job, I think we'll do some driveline measurements first"...I said right-oh and got off the phone.

I stewed about it for half an hour or so, then found the service manager's email address on their website, I again went thru the whole history of what had happened, mentioned the forum and other's that had had the problem, and that for the life of me couldn't understand why, when it points to the shaft being damaged, they were wasting time doing driveline measurements instead of pulling shaft.

I got a reply within 10minutes saying they would get right on to it and would call me shortly.

30mins went by and I get a phone call from the service manager, saying something along the lines of "To make sure that it is fixed, MMA have approved replacement of both left rear shaft and hub. It's ordered and will be here in 2 days"

I asked "Did you remove the shaft to confirm damage, if any?" he replied "no we didn't."

I said thank you very much and booked the car in for the following week.

When the shaft and hub was replaced, mechanic came for a drive with me to make sure the noise had gone, said he really liked the car...lift etc
I asked if the splines were damaged, to which the reply was "No visual damage detected"

Outcome, noise totally gone...

Now, my parting thoughts....for those that have had warranty work done previously, when have you ever known MMA to approve a warranty claim (excluding recalls), without an MMA dealer actually identifying and confirming an issue with a part, just taking the owners version of events/whats wrong?.......known problem perhaps?

They dont just replace parts for the fun of it is what I and many others have found.

PM me if you want more info or dealership details.

Shawty

[Odie]

My Pajero was serviced today. I had them check both front and rear shafts. Left rear was slightly loose but the front right had more play than the left rear.
My car has made a single clunk noise in the front right corner every time I've reversed into my driveway for the past couple of years - I thought it was a worn brake pad. No noise tonight.

Time will tell if this has sorted the occasional rough shift from 4th to 5th gear.

(72000km, no lift, auto & never abused).

[MattyDucati]

I also was starting to hear the same nock, checked the left rear hub nut and found it was not very tight. Got 1 1/2 turns more on it and the noise is now gone. a problem area for the pajero and something to keep a eye on.
My paj has 2.5inch lift and 48000 k's, had the noise since 20000ish k's

[Axis]

Hi all,

5 months from my last post where the knock went away I have found it gradually came back. I have put in a lift since then.

Was rotating tyres so thought I'd tighten the passenger side again - result is noise is gone again. The nut was not loose like previously but I removed it and re tightened again as tight as I could.

[BigRed]

Hi Guys

Great thread.....

I'm sitting in a similar boat. I have the "clunk" that you all are talking about as well as a whine or grumble for the loss of a better description at speeds over 110Km/hr.
With a trip of some 6500Km into Namibia this festive season I've done the following.
Been to diff repair places. Those that don't want to strip and have a look, have said, to just put in a thicker oil and carry on. Clunk supposedly comes from the crown and pinion..... I personally doubt it and think its as you guys have said, the spline shaft on the lhs...... Thats also where I hear the noise.

Did any you guys take pics? Would loooooove to see what it all looks like.

Then, to the diff, my Paj (2008 model) with some 195,000 Km on the clock, and its whine.... Replace or thicker oil? Or even banana skins

[Brucester]

In my recent post you would have seen Im going to do my front Hub bearing assembly when they arrive, then I read this post and I thought I have a slight clunk when I put it into reverse (Auto) My wife said your deaf put your ear near the rear passenger wheel and I will put it into reverse so you can hear how loud it is. OK definite loud clunk,out to Supercheap Auto 36mm socket,30 minutes work 1/8 of a turn clunk seems to have gone. Love this Forum.
Cheers