Hi, I recently changed my oil to a fully synthetic engine oil. I now have a slow oil leak coming from somewhere. I have traced it along the passenger side of the sump up to the timing chain cover then lose sight of it behind the air conditioner. Just wondering if this leak could be a result of changing to the synthetic oil. I have read the because of the mol-e-cular structure of synthetic oils they can leak past seals. I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same issue. Also any advice on where the oil is coming from would be appreciated. Thanks
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engine leaking after changing to fully sythetic oil
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I will say no. My experience is with full synthetic in a petrol engine. I use Penrite, full synthetic and have not developed a leak and my seals are an older type than yours. I have read that this may have been valid in the early days of full synthetics but the chefs err chemists have changed the recipes long ago to overcome this issue. Presuming you have used the correct diesel oil I would say it's a coincidence and maybe the leak was present before and now noticeable. You will need advice from diesel experienced users to follow up on source of leak. Good luck. I hate leaks too.99 NL Escape 3.5L V6 LWB Wagon, "Aisin Auto", MM Alum Protector Bar, MM factory 'steel' underbody protector plates, Engine oil cooler, Transmission oil cooler, Side rails, Flares, MM Alloy wheels, HANKOOK Dynapro ATM LT tyres, Aftermarket Alarm, MM A.I.S. HPR15 Penrite engine oil. Penrite LS140 diff oil with 250ml LIMSLIP additive 7098.
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Originally posted by Goodsy View PostDon't laugh but did you spill a bit while filling?
Degrease it and keep an eye on the area.
Synthetic is no different from mineral in regards to leaks. If anything, a synthetic will only cause a leak over mineral if there is crap plugging up a leak and the synthetic cleans it away.97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers
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I once thought I had a leak on the front transfer till I looked up and realised I'd spilt a little diesel when doing the filter... Big relief that was!2003 NP Pajero GLS 3.2 DID.
E.C. Bullbar, USB/Bluetooth Stereo, Cabin Filter Mod, 20% tint, Bridgestone AT LT 265/70/16, EGR Blanks, Bonnet Protector, Engine Guardian, Boost/Oil Pressure/Volt Gauges + Huge Wish list
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Originally posted by Pauly Faulkner View PostI've done that on more then one occasion
Synthetic is no different from mineral in regards to leaks. If anything, a synthetic will only cause a leak over mineral if there is crap plugging up a leak and the synthetic cleans it away.
correct, give the man a beer. Synthetic oils do not cause leaks however they do clean an engine better in most cases and have been knowwn to allow an old leak which has benn plugged by gunk to to open up as it has better cleaning agents than the cheap mineral oils.
The same has higher viscosity oils dont stop leaks over thinner ones if there is a leak there oil will find it eventually unless some of the rubbish floating around in an engine blocks it.Current vehicles: 2017 Toyota Hilux, 2022 Hyundai Kona,2022 VW T-Cross1995 3.5l nj Pajero , 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 , 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495,chamberlain g6 plus a few other odds and ends
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Hi,
Spoke to the Penrite Tech Guy.
The only oil he recommended for my 98 Challenger, V6 3.0L with 231,000 klms, was HPR30 20/60 mineral. He also asked the area I lived, Northern NSW, SE QLD.
I was advised Not to use a synthetic based oils, in a motor that old with that many klms, as it was only designed to run on Mineral based oil !!!!
Synthetic oils, may bypass the rings causing the bores to glaze up, increasing oil consumption, and oil leaks may appear due to the cleaning properties in it.
These comments were also confirmed, by the local engine rebuilder, with nearly 40 years under his belt, with many older engine having to be rehoned, due to bore glazing, as a result of not using a mineral oil.
Penrite convert.
whitehillbillies
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Originally posted by whitehillbillies View PostHi,
Spoke to the Penrite Tech Guy.
The only oil he recommended for my 98 Challenger, V6 3.0L with 231,000 klms, was HPR30 20/60 mineral. He also asked the area I lived, Northern NSW, SE QLD.
I was advised Not to use a synthetic based oils, in a motor that old with that many klms, as it was only designed to run on Mineral based oil !!!!
Synthetic oils, may bypass the rings causing the bores to glaze up, increasing oil consumption, and oil leaks may appear due to the cleaning properties in it.
These comments were also confirmed, by the local engine rebuilder, with nearly 40 years under his belt, with many older engine having to be rehoned, due to bore glazing, as a result of not using a mineral oil.
Penrite convert.
whitehillbillies
PS: after thought had me revisit Penrite Lube Guide and search for the recommended oil for the earlier engine in NJ, NK ie 6G72 3L V6 93-97 and guess wot? HPR15, a 15-60 full synthetic oil is the recommendation. Isn't this the same engine as the 98 3L V6 Challenger?? Confirms my ducks nuts theory. And doesn't this info contradict the advice given by the Penrite tech guy above (not to use full synthetic oil in engine that old), just a tad. You see next year the guide will change the recommended HPR10 to HPR15 for my model. I'm just one step ahead of them.99 NL Escape 3.5L V6 LWB Wagon, "Aisin Auto", MM Alum Protector Bar, MM factory 'steel' underbody protector plates, Engine oil cooler, Transmission oil cooler, Side rails, Flares, MM Alloy wheels, HANKOOK Dynapro ATM LT tyres, Aftermarket Alarm, MM A.I.S. HPR15 Penrite engine oil. Penrite LS140 diff oil with 250ml LIMSLIP additive 7098.
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if it leaks, just showing severe wear spots...
kind of like indicators.. tho once you go synth stay synth or you may be in for a new motor or rebuild....
but to each his own.My Car is up for Sale => Link to Market Place
Has a current Vic roadworthy (valid from the 28/04/2016)
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