idle speed sensor, how do i adjust it

[peter92]

hi all,well new engines done 850ks and when engines is cold the idle is good. but when driving and go to stop quickly the idle is aratic.like up and down. going from 150,500,400 and so on. when engine is at running temp it seems fine. could the idle sensor need ajusting or is it something else. any thoughts would be great
regards peter

[howesey]

The idle air control will either work properly or not and if it was OK before is probably OK now.

Did you remove the throttle position sender off the throttle body???
If you did it cant be just bolted straight up.
The following is lifted from a manual I used when I rebuilt my father in laws
You sit it on flush with the plug facing off 90 degrees to the throttle body opening and toward the idle air. Then rotate it counter clockwise 90 degress so that the holes line up and bolt it up this sets it.
The next steps in the manual to check are -:

(3) Connect a circuit tester between @ (ground) and @
(output), or between @ (output) and @ (power). Then,
make sure that the resistance changes smoothly when the
throttle valve is slowly moved to the fully open position.
(4) Check for continuity across terminals @ (closed throttle
position switch) and @ (ground) with the throttle valve both
fully closed and fully open.

If there is no continuity with throttle valve fully closed, turn
the throttle position sensor clockwise, and then check
again.
(5) If the above specifications are not met, replace TPS.

[peter92]

The idle air control will either work properly or not and if it was OK before is probably OK now.

Did you remove the throttle position sender off the throttle body???
If you did it cant be just bolted straight up.
The following is lifted from a manual I used when I rebuilt my father in laws
You sit it on flush with the plug facing off 90 degrees to the throttle body opening and toward the idle air. Then rotate it counter clockwise 90 degress so that the holes line up and bolt it up this sets it.
The next steps in the manual to check are -:

(3) Connect a circuit tester between @ (ground) and @
(output), or between @ (output) and @ (power). Then,
make sure that the resistance changes smoothly when the
throttle valve is slowly moved to the fully open position.
(4) Check for continuity across terminals @ (closed throttle
position switch) and @ (ground) with the throttle valve both
fully closed and fully open.

If there is no continuity with throttle valve fully closed, turn
the throttle position sensor clockwise, and then check
again.
(5) If the above specifications are not met, replace TPS.

thanks for the reply, yeah the hole intake was taken off one engine ,working, and put on the other, so i figure it should be working fine. cant see why its not. it may not even be the sensor, but wont idle properly thats all
regards peter

[4ePikanini]

http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/throttle_body/

[MUMSRIG]

Have you given the throttle body a clean out and actually removed the ISC and cleaned it out?

If coolant builds up in the ports for the ISC then you will get hunting and poor running etc. I was having a similar issue and rectified it by doing this...

Mitch

[peter92]

new engine in but no torque, advise needed

hi all, just an update on my engine. took it back to the mech today to get everything checked out . all checked out ok. so why do i have no torque when in high gears. it has a slight miss at idle but he says thats nothing to worry about. i would think that being a new engine it should be fine. going on a slight incline its slowing right down to 90ks flat to the floor. at 60ks in 4th , foot lat, nothing ,it just has no grunt. so question for every one , what the hell is going on. really getting pi..t off. any help would be really great at this time
regards peter

[4ePikanini]

how many kms on the new engine?

It takes about 1500kms for the engine to really get run in.

If it has done more than 500km and you have done your first oil change after the rebuild I would suggest taking the car for a long drive and some 4th gear pulls to 5800rpm.

Check for restrictions in the exhaust. Old silencer boxes that are blocked kill a helluva lot of power!

[peter92]

hi marius hows things, ive done 960ks, another 40ks to go before the oil change. do you think i should undo the exhaust from the extractors and see how it goes
regards peter

[4ePikanini]

I would......

check the timing
ask an exhaust shop to look at the exhaust - my knowledge is poor when it comes to exhaust.
unplug the maf
go for a drive

[peter92]

i will try that tomoro, now a dumb question for some one whos frustrated. whats the maf and where is it
regards peter

[4ePikanini]

MAF - Mass air flow

In the 3.0 V6 it measures air flow, density, altitude and intake air temperature.


the square thingy attached to the pipe in the orange crate



spot it top left



close up pictures of a removed one

[peter92]

oooooh that one,yeah i no that one. today the mech pulled of the plug to that and the engine nearly stalled and when put back on it seamed to run ok. so i have one off the old 4x4 should i swap them over to see what happens
regards peter

[4ePikanini]

definitely try that

[peter92]

hi, well changed it all today and nothing changed, ran it from the extractors, changed the maf , all is still the same. have you heard of this problem before
regards peter

[Stevie-Ray]

maf?

i will try that tomoro, now a dumb question for some one whos frustrated. whats the maf and where is it
regards peter

Mechanic's Amputated Fingers ; somewhere near fan-belt!

Anyway, just wondering whether you've looked at the oxygen-sensor on the exhaust. If that's faulty, the ecu can tell fuel-system to supply too little or too much petrol to chambers!

Cheers