Lovells front springs recommendation for NW

[damo03]

Hi All,

My NW diesel I just acquired was quite high in the rear but standard up front. It's clear now as the rear has raised CRR-91 springs in the rear with airbags. These are fine for now and with airbags should be good for load carrying and when camping off road.

The front only has standard springs: CFR-90. I'm looking at putting either CFR-90HD or
CFR-90EHD to level up the ride height.

The car has the following up front:

Smart bar (49kg)
Warn winch with synthetic rope
Dual battery
Soon to be added alloy roof rack
Steel bash plates

Could those with experience with the front springs CFR-90HD and CFR-90EHD please let me know their experiences. I'll be keen to hear about your setups (mods/accessories) and how it handles, especially if you have the EHD.

I want the lift up front but don't wish to destroy the ride around town.

Cheers.

[old Jack]

Hi Damo,

Factory unladen ride heights are 503/5mm front and 533/5mm rear, this is measured from the centre of the wheel hub up to the underside of the wheel arch in a vertical line.
A 35-45mm lift in the front and 40-50mm lift in the rear is the most you should be aiming for as this keeps you legal by maintaining 2/3's of the original droop travel.

However if you have high kms on a sagged suspension you can experience noise and vibration if you go up to the higher limit, this is because the driveshafts are used to running at lower ride heights.

Most front aftermarket raised coils have a similar spring rate and just a higher free length so ride comfort is not effected. It is when you go to the EHD coils that are required for a steel bar, winch, aux battery and a full set of bash plates that the spring rates increase.

OJ.

[Dalma01]

Hi All,

My NW diesel I just acquired was quite high in the rear but standard up front. It's clear now as the rear has raised CRR-91 springs in the rear with airbags. These are fine for now and with airbags should be good for load carrying and when camping off road.

The front only has standard springs: CFR-90. I'm looking at putting either CFR-90HD or
CFR-90EHD to level up the ride height.

The car has the following up front:

Smart bar (49kg)
Warn winch with synthetic rope
Dual battery
Soon to be added alloy roof rack
Steel bash plates

Could those with experience with the front springs CFR-90HD and CFR-90EHD please let me know their experiences. I'll be keen to hear about your setups (mods/accessories) and how it handles, especially if you have the EHD.

I want the lift up front but don't wish to destroy the ride around town.

Cheers.

My Paj has exactly the same set up with steel cable.
I have Lovells HD springs front and rear.
The ride is beautiful.
Just my 2c

[damo03]

Thanks Dalma01. Is the suspension level or nose down or rear down?

[pharb]

I fitted new front CFR90EHD, rear second hand CRR90HD about 18 months ago.
Koni shocks.

ARB bar, Warn winch, synthetic rope, Bushskinz intercooler and sump guard. Second battery in boot. Compressor bolted in rear as well. Rear storage tub full of tools and reovery gear.

Weight is about 1240kg on front axle with driver.

Heights when fitted 1/11/19 (on slightly uneven ground) -
FL 570MM FR 555MM
RL 555MM RR 545MM

Height today (on slightly uneven ground, but different spot), full fuel -
FL 570MM FR 555MM
RL 545MM RR 535MM

When first fitted handling felt odd. Stiffened up rear shocks one notch made an improvement, although still "feels" better when loaded up.

It was definitely different to the severly sagged original suspension. I wouldn't of said "better", but after living with it I now really like it. Probably feels a bit less like a sports car, but handles touring loads and trips a lot better, even when pushed along.

I bought front springs fom local spring manufacturer, suspension repairer. Generally has good reputation. He insisted I needed the EHD. In hindsight obviously I don't as technically on Old Jack's figures it is probably to high in front, and not very lifted in rear. It hasn't sagged or settled and is to high, although doesn’t look out of place, or maybe I have got used to it. The rear doesn't appear to sag much when loaded up and with about 150kg camper trailer ball weight.

Originally I thought if it didn't settle in front I would replace front springs with HD instead, but now I don't want to change what actually seems to work quite well.

[Dalma01]

Thanks Dalma01. Is the suspension level or nose down or rear down?

It's pretty level.
Maybe slightly nose down.
The rear is always higher on Pajero's I noticed.

[old Jack]

I fitted new front CFR90EHD, rear second hand CRR90HD about 18 months ago.
Koni shocks.

ARB bar, Warn winch, synthetic rope, Bushskinz intercooler and sump guard. Second battery in boot. Compressor bolted in rear as well. Rear storage tub full of tools and reovery gear.

Weight is about 1240kg on front axle with driver.

Heights when fitted 1/11/19 (on slightly uneven ground) -
FL 570MM FR 555MM
RL 555MM RR 545MM

Height today (on slightly uneven ground, but different spot), full fuel -
FL 570MM FR 555MM
RL 545MM RR 535MM

When first fitted handling felt odd. Stiffened up rear shocks one notch made an improvement, although still "feels" better when loaded up.

It was definitely different to the severly sagged original suspension. I wouldn't of said "better", but after living with it I now really like it. Probably feels a bit less like a sports car, but handles touring loads and trips a lot better, even when pushed along.

I bought front springs fom local spring manufacturer, suspension repairer. Generally has good reputation. He insisted I needed the EHD. In hindsight obviously I don't as technically on Old Jack's figures it is probably to high in front, and not very lifted in rear. It hasn't sagged or settled and is to high, although doesn’t look out of place, or maybe I have got used to it. The rear doesn't appear to sag much when loaded up and with about 150kg camper trailer ball weight.

Originally I thought if it didn't settle in front I would replace front springs with HD instead, but now I don't want to change what actually seems to work quite well.

Are your ride height figures correct especially for the front? 15mm difference left to right is a lot as is 570mm.

I would have thought at 570mm you would not be able to get a proper wheel alignment on the front.
Have you jacked up the front of the car so both front wheels and the suspension are at full droop? You really need 60+mm of droop travel from the normal ride height otherwise you risk unwanted activations of the ABS, ASC and TC systems, if this happens a off road it will slow your progress, it it happened on road it can cause handling issues.

There are also significant long term effects of operating with excessive increase in drive shaft angles. I would strongly advise changing the coils over. A few hundred dollars now will save you a few thousand dollars later.

OJ.

[damo03]

Hi Damo,

Factory unladen ride heights are 503/5mm front and 533/5mm rear, this is measured from the centre of the wheel hub up to the underside of the wheel arch in a vertical line.

I measured today and front is 505mm, rear 570mm. Unladen heights. Front will definitely benefit from a lift.

[old Jack]

I measured today and front is 505mm, rear 570mm. Unladen heights. Front will definitely benefit from a lift.

Correct, ideally if you can get the front up to 535-540mm this would suit your rear ride heights.
If you are happy with the current front spring rates then you will need an increase in coil length by about 15mm to achieve a 30mm lift.


OJ.

[geopaj]

Replacing the coils is always the best option but a strut spacer is another option (increases height without changing the spring rate). I personally wouldn’t go thicker than 10mm (which would give 20mm lift).

For example;

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-Mitsubishi-Pajero-NM-NP-NS-NT-4WD-Front-Coil-Strut-Spacer-1-20mm-Lift-Kit/253849719156?fits=Model%3APajero&epid=8004039973&hash=item3b1a9f5174:g:dNgAAOSwXPNZ5fFP

[damo03]

Replacing the coils is always the best option but a strut spacer is another option (increases height without changing the spring rate). I personally wouldn’t go thicker than 10mm (which would give 20mm lift).

For example;

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-Mit...gAAOSwXPNZ5fFP

Thanks but I'll rather spend the money and change the coils. Especially after thinking about it and reading this:

https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/-120-series-discussion-only/suspension-120-series/31376-ifs-strut-spacers-and-coil-spacers-how-do-they-work-and-what-can-they-break

[BruceandBobbi]

Thanks but I'll rather spend the money and change the coils. Especially after thinking about it and reading this:

https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...can-they-break

Sometimes you can read too much.

I think Prado front suspension maybe different to the Pajero.

Someone with more knowledge will either confirm or deny.

[old Jack]

Apart from changing the coils there are 2 possible option to increase front ride heights but thes have caveats attached and should not be ignored.

1. You fit a strut spacer between the top mount of the assembled strut and the body wher the strut mounts bolts on to. However you must ensure the strut or the coil bottom out when the suspension is fully compressed on a the compression bumpstop, and there are at least 2 threads of the strut mount studs protruding from the end of the nuts. This limits the thickness of the strut spacer to about 10mm in thickness which will result in about a 20mm increase in ride height but all struts are slightly different so you need to know the compressed strut length and the compressed coil bind height to check if this is a safe modification. With this method you are moving the strut assembly top mount position in relation to the compression bumpstop.

2. You fit a coil spacer between the underside of the top mount and the top of the coil, this involves the removal of the strut assembly and disassembly of the strut assembly. You cannot safely do this with normal coil spring compressors, you need a strut/coil compressor or take these to a suspension workshop and have the coil spacers fitted.
How thick a spacer spacer you can use will be determined by the compressed coil bind height. With this method you are preloading the coil to get an increase in ride height, similar to adjustable coilover struts.

Warning, if you get either of the 2 above mods wrong you can damage the inner guard area where the strut bolts on, bend the strut shafts, damage the lower bushes and strut mount on the LCA and put extra compression impact loads on the tyre's and rims.

OJ.

[pharb]

Are your ride height figures correct especially for the front? 15mm difference left to right is a lot as is 570mm.

I would have thought at 570mm you would not be able to get a proper wheel alignment on the front.
Have you jacked up the front of the car so both front wheels and the suspension are at full droop? You really need 60+mm of droop travel from the normal ride height otherwise you risk unwanted activations of the ABS, ASC and TC systems, if this happens a off road it will slow your progress, it it happened on road it can cause handling issues.

There are also significant long term effects of operating with excessive increase in drive shaft angles. I would strongly advise changing the coils over. A few hundred dollars now will save you a few thousand dollars later.

OJ.

Thanks for the feedback OJ. I was hoping you would throw your 2 cents in.
Haven't had any issues getting alignment. Use a tyre place that no matter where else I have tried over last 30 years for personal and light and heavy vehicle fleets I always end up back there. One bloke does alignments, and he has been there at least 6 or 7 years. Proper old school mechanic.
Tyre wear is perfect.
Measured droop the other night. 40mm. Way to short, but I have taken from posts on here that Konis are a bit shorter in travel than others. This of course just adds to the issue, doesn't excuse it.
In the 18 months, 50,000km the ASC has activated on 3 occasions with the subsequent dropping out of cruise control for "no apparent reasons" on heavily potholed sections of road. From memory one of these has been when on a 5,000km trip loaded to almost full GVM including 150kg ball weight, 1.5t camper. In comparison my work/company car (stock RAV 4) has the cruise control drop out 3 or 4 times a week or rough sections of road.
Drive shafts are now more parallel than they were when I first got the vehicle with badly sagged front suspension. Off course now pointing down at outer end instead of up.

Intent has always been to change, just haven't got there yet. To many other priorities keep getting in the way, such as work and fixing kids cars. For example just bought a daily driver (top condition little V6 Astina. Fun ) for the missus to drive so I could park the Paj up for a few days at a time and get to do all the work I keep putting off. But within a week No. 3 son's Triton dropped a thrust bearing in the guts of the auto trans planetary set, so now I am trying to rebuild that. He is now driving the prestine NL I just bought to replace my poor old NJ, and he is loving it. And I'm left taking dogs for run up bush, and dragging wood trailer around in the old girl whose windows don't work and I have to top up coolant almost every trip.
Now this week the clutch on No. 3 son's Triton started slipping.

[old Jack]

Hi Pharb,

Glad my post helped you. Correcting your front ride heights back to 535mm to 545m should be a priority, for your own safety, those that travel wth you and other road users. A few hundred dollars in new coils and 3 hours in labour is a small price to pay to correct the problem and not let the problem develop into costing a few thousand dollars. Even worse is if you have an accident and the excessive and illegal ride height is a contributing factor to the accident then your insurance claim could be denied and you could possibly face police charges.

OJ.