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  • NTX
    Valued Member
    • Apr 2010
    • 560
    • Niddrie, Melbourne.

    Rear quarter access

    G'day folks,


    I am looking for some advise on access the rear quarter panel on my NT shorty. I have a small ding above the wheel arch and am going to try a bit of paintless dent repair. I had wrongly assumed I could remove the wheel arch liner like the front, but alas, that does not seem to to be an option. Is the only access through the interior? Please tell me that is not it? I have heard so many horror stories around interior trim removal from the rear of series 4 Paj's!


    Thanks in advance,


    Matt
    2009 NT Pajero. SWB X ARB Sahara bar. Xray HID converted Spot lights. Mickey Thompson STZ 265/60 R18. Unicorn Performance upgraded Intercooler. NP 16" rims under house, still no rubber! Rhino sports racks and Rhino aluminium basket and bag.
  • NFT5
    Valued Member
    • Apr 2011
    • 1580
    • Canberra

    #2
    PDR, using rods, is an art form where even those guys who've done the training sometimes take years before they're actually good at it. If you don't know what you're doing there's a high risk that you could make it worse. Apart from that, the rods, especially the long ones needed for a quarter, are expensive, plus you need lights and sight boards.


    Having it done professionally is likely to cost in the region of $150, and it will be perfect, or near to.


    Easiest access is probably behind the tail light, but not 100% sure for a shorty and depends on where the dent is.


    Glue pulling may be a better option if you really want to do it yourself. Kits on Ebay from around $30 and include puller, glue sticks and tabs. With a bit of care probably less likely to do damage since it's an overall, not a point, pull. Just need a hot melt glue gun and some metho to release the glue.
    Chris

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    • aussieintas
      Valued Member
      • Feb 2013
      • 2191
      • Sorell, Tasmania

      #3
      There is basically no access from behind the tail light to that area.

      Easiest would be to remove the interior plastic as there are large access holes on the inner sheet metal to the outer sheet metal if that makes sense.

      I removed the interior cargo plastics when I upgraded my speakers. Takes a bit of time but would be worth it to get proper access to your dent.

      Have a look at the first thread below link. I used this one to follow.





      2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

      Previously
      88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
      92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
      92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
      99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
      95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
      08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

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      • NTX
        Valued Member
        • Apr 2010
        • 560
        • Niddrie, Melbourne.

        #4
        Originally posted by aussieintas View Post
        There is basically no access from behind the tail light to that area.

        Easiest would be to remove the interior plastic as there are large access holes on the inner sheet metal to the outer sheet metal if that makes sense.

        I removed the interior cargo plastics when I upgraded my speakers. Takes a bit of time but would be worth it to get proper access to your dent.

        Have a look at the first thread below link. I used this one to follow.





        https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ead.php?t=8823

        This what I was affraid of. Working from the inside, I can't see what I am doing with the panel. I had a look at a Pajero series 4 repair manual and there is actually access from the rear of wheel tub. This might do the trick. I am not confident that I can simply pull these dents, they are small, but a bit on the complex side, so would be best to finesse from the inside.
        2009 NT Pajero. SWB X ARB Sahara bar. Xray HID converted Spot lights. Mickey Thompson STZ 265/60 R18. Unicorn Performance upgraded Intercooler. NP 16" rims under house, still no rubber! Rhino sports racks and Rhino aluminium basket and bag.

        Comment

        • NFT5
          Valued Member
          • Apr 2011
          • 1580
          • Canberra

          #5
          Like I said in the other thread, working from inside means that you can't see the outside as you're pushing. This means that your chances of stuffing it up increase exponentially.


          if you have the correct tools and there is a straight line of access from the tail light bucket then this is a much better way to access. Use the hole that the harness comes through or drill a hole. You can always put a grommet in it later. From here you can set up a light and sight down the panel so you can see what you're doing.


          But, like I said earlier, glue pulling will give you a much better chance of success.


          Just remember that if you push a high that you can't get out without damaging the paint, or crack the paint, then fixing it will cost you $500. Compare this to getting a pro PDR tech to do it at around $150.


          Honestly, if I get door dings in my Pajero then I get a PDR guy in to fix them. To me that's a much better proposition than repairing a respraying and wasting 4 or 5 hours that I could be using to fix a much uglier dent in a customer's car, that I'll get paid for repairing.
          Chris

          Comment

          • NTX
            Valued Member
            • Apr 2010
            • 560
            • Niddrie, Melbourne.

            #6
            Originally posted by NFT5 View Post
            Like I said in the other thread, working from inside means that you can't see the outside as you're pushing. This means that your chances of stuffing it up increase exponentially.


            if you have the correct tools and there is a straight line of access from the tail light bucket then this is a much better way to access. Use the hole that the harness comes through or drill a hole. You can always put a grommet in it later. From here you can set up a light and sight down the panel so you can see what you're doing.


            But, like I said earlier, glue pulling will give you a much better chance of success.


            Just remember that if you push a high that you can't get out without damaging the paint, or crack the paint, then fixing it will cost you $500. Compare this to getting a pro PDR tech to do

            it at around $150.



            Honestly, if I get door dings in my Pajero then I get a PDR guy in to fix them. To me that's a much better proposition than repairing a respraying and wasting 4 or 5 hours that I could be using to fix a much uglier dent in a customer's car, that I'll get paid for repairing.

            Sounds like very sound advice Chris.
            2009 NT Pajero. SWB X ARB Sahara bar. Xray HID converted Spot lights. Mickey Thompson STZ 265/60 R18. Unicorn Performance upgraded Intercooler. NP 16" rims under house, still no rubber! Rhino sports racks and Rhino aluminium basket and bag.

            Comment

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