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Front drive shaft replacement - getting shaft back in!!

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  • Vman
    Member
    • Sep 2011
    • 76
    • Newcastle

    Front drive shaft replacement - getting shaft back in!!

    Ok done lots of searching but not much on how to get the shafts back in. I cannot for the life of me get the passenger side to click due to the cer-clip. Splines seem to line up and lock in.

    Have tried tapping from the hub end but dont want to damage the new shaft.

    Help please!!!
    2012 NW Activ - so much nicer than the old GU Pootrol!
  • LordMayhem
    Valued Member
    • Apr 2012
    • 1219
    • Brissy QLD

    #2
    shove it in just like you had to yank to get it out mate. line it up hold it straight and give it a few good hard shoves and it will pop in
    94 NJ 3L Auto Stocker

    Comment

    • ARGS
      Valued Member
      • Jul 2012
      • 723
      • Brisbane

      #3
      correct size seal? If the seal is even slightly the wrong size smaller it can be a pita to fit
      1995 GLS 3.5, optioned to the shhizam with just couple of mods

      Comment

      • my.paj
        Moderator
        • Dec 2010
        • 3830
        • Tullamarine

        #4
        I did notice on one I done for a mate there is 2 different seal sizes or bearing size, when I fitted the one he got it was very loose in the diff, so check you got the right size.
        Rick
        Old, NP Exceed 3.5 petrol, ARB Bull bar, Warn winch, Bush Skinz Bash plates ,2inch lift, Safari Snorkel. ***Now Sold***
        New, RG Colorado Dual Cab Tray

        Comment

        • captain_paj
          Valued Member
          • Jan 2012
          • 1015
          • Logan QLD

          #5
          Originally posted by Vman View Post
          Ok done lots of searching but not much on how to get the shafts back in. I cannot for the life of me get the passenger side to click due to the cer-clip. Splines seem to line up and lock in.

          Have tried tapping from the hub end but dont want to damage the new shaft.

          Help please!!!
          ROFL

          I laugh because exactly that problem stuffed me literally for hours.

          Firstly, if there's a shim - you can probably leave it out with new drive shafts.

          Secondly - I COULD NOT get the clip on, while the driveshaft was bolted to the diff. Couldn't be done, no matter how hard I tried.

          Unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. Push it through the hub, and you should get the clip on. You have to hold the driveshaft up and angle the hub down if you have it hanging by the bottom ball joint. Get a helper.

          It sucks but its the only way that worked for me. Or you could do what a certain person I know did and push the clip on the best he could and go for a drive, hoping it will spring into place. Which I wouldn't do.

          Oh - and there's a ring that goes over the hub end of the driveshaft that seats the outer CV to the hub. It's asymmetrical. It goes one way. Muggins me didn't note which way around so I used trial and error. From memory the tapered side goes to the hub but don't quote me.

          It sucks but this worked for me.
          1994 NJ GLS Auto, 3.0 LPG, 31s, HD springs, 50mm body lift, Firestone rear air bags

          1993 NH GLS Manual, 3.0 LPG, 31s, Iron Man Torsion and Coils, Lovells Shocks, 30mm body lift, Manual Hubs, Extractors and god awful droning 2.5" exhaust

          Comment

          • Vman
            Member
            • Sep 2011
            • 76
            • Newcastle

            #6
            Finally got it in. It was very tight but finally popped. Ended up having to get the wide 8.5 month pregnant to hold the shaft in place while I held a peice of timber and hammered the end of the shaft - this popped it over.

            A few mechanic mates noted they can be quite tight. The proper method if it doesn't pop is to use a brass hammer (or plastic hammer as per MM instructions), however the timber and normal hammer does the same - you just need three hands.

            Other advice is to get the top ball joint in first then jack up the lower arm to get the bottom ball joint in. Much easier which I can imagine. Will let you all know how it goes.
            2012 NW Activ - so much nicer than the old GU Pootrol!

            Comment

            • ARGS
              Valued Member
              • Jul 2012
              • 723
              • Brisbane

              #7
              glad you got it sorted

              Doing my uni's today, hopefully drama free too!
              1995 GLS 3.5, optioned to the shhizam with just couple of mods

              Comment

              • captain_paj
                Valued Member
                • Jan 2012
                • 1015
                • Logan QLD

                #8
                Originally posted by Vman View Post
                Other advice is to get the top ball joint in first then jack up the lower arm to get the bottom ball joint in. Much easier which I can imagine. Will let you all know how it goes.
                Dropping the torsion bar makes it very easy. It's not hard to do and not having to fight the damn thing is awesome.
                1994 NJ GLS Auto, 3.0 LPG, 31s, HD springs, 50mm body lift, Firestone rear air bags

                1993 NH GLS Manual, 3.0 LPG, 31s, Iron Man Torsion and Coils, Lovells Shocks, 30mm body lift, Manual Hubs, Extractors and god awful droning 2.5" exhaust

                Comment

                • captain_paj
                  Valued Member
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 1015
                  • Logan QLD

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Vman View Post
                  Finally got it in. It was very tight but finally popped. Ended up having to get the wide 8.5 month pregnant to hold the shaft in place while I held a peice of timber and hammered the end of the shaft - this popped it over.

                  A few mechanic mates noted they can be quite tight. The proper method if it doesn't pop is to use a brass hammer (or plastic hammer as per MM instructions), however the timber and normal hammer does the same - you just need three hands.
                  Oh - sounds like you didn't have it bolted up to the diff. Yes wood and a hammer is a wonderful thing.

                  Glad you got it sorted dude!
                  1994 NJ GLS Auto, 3.0 LPG, 31s, HD springs, 50mm body lift, Firestone rear air bags

                  1993 NH GLS Manual, 3.0 LPG, 31s, Iron Man Torsion and Coils, Lovells Shocks, 30mm body lift, Manual Hubs, Extractors and god awful droning 2.5" exhaust

                  Comment

                  • ARGS
                    Valued Member
                    • Jul 2012
                    • 723
                    • Brisbane

                    #10
                    righto, s/w autobahn as well and they're saying that there's 2x variants to them as there was a revision???? Ones $29 and the other "less common" on is $58
                    1995 GLS 3.5, optioned to the shhizam with just couple of mods

                    Comment

                    • captain_paj
                      Valued Member
                      • Jan 2012
                      • 1015
                      • Logan QLD

                      #11
                      Originally posted by ARGS View Post
                      righto, s/w autobahn as well and they're saying that there's 2x variants to them as there was a revision???? Ones $29 and the other "less common" on is $58
                      Oh FFS really? So how do you know which ones you need?
                      1994 NJ GLS Auto, 3.0 LPG, 31s, HD springs, 50mm body lift, Firestone rear air bags

                      1993 NH GLS Manual, 3.0 LPG, 31s, Iron Man Torsion and Coils, Lovells Shocks, 30mm body lift, Manual Hubs, Extractors and god awful droning 2.5" exhaust

                      Comment

                      • Vman
                        Member
                        • Sep 2011
                        • 76
                        • Newcastle

                        #12
                        I'm going to try and do it without dropping the torsion bar if I can. Sort out camping gear while waiting for the wife to finish work and ball joint to come in. Having an 18 month old trying to help out just isnt working.

                        If I get really stuck I will drop torsion bar. But really need to be on the road this afternoon.

                        Ha - on a side note its going to be tricky to pack as this is the first camping trip with the three of us. I had a great system before him when we had the full flat floor in the back. Forgot how long some of our stuff is! lol A split fold seat would be very handy about now.

                        Thanks for the help guys - however not out of the woods just yet...
                        2012 NW Activ - so much nicer than the old GU Pootrol!

                        Comment

                        • Vman
                          Member
                          • Sep 2011
                          • 76
                          • Newcastle

                          #13
                          Originally posted by ARGS View Post
                          righto, s/w autobahn as well and they're saying that there's 2x variants to them as there was a revision???? Ones $29 and the other "less common" on is $58
                          Args - are you referring to uni joints? Man thats a pain in the ass. You would think they would keep things pretty much the same and consistent - especially being Japanese. Thats one thing I like about working on Toyota's so much stuff is the same across the range and interchanges.
                          2012 NW Activ - so much nicer than the old GU Pootrol!

                          Comment

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