Roof rack load capacity

[neil120y]

Hi Pajbus

I recently swapped the NS roof rails for the Rhino track system. This takes the NS limit from 80kg to 100kg. I chose to do this because I need to carry a tinny on top, and I wanted the extra strength, especially offroad. I can take some photos, and give you measurements of the bolts that hold the rails on the roof if you like.

Neil

[grhyso]

Hi Pajbus

I recently swapped the NS roof rails for the Rhino track system. This takes the NS limit from 80kg to 100kg. I chose to do this because I need to carry a tinny on top, and I wanted the extra strength, especially offroad. I can take some photos, and give you measurements of the bolts that hold the rails on the roof if you like.

Neil

I'd like to see some photo's Neil, this is an option that I am considering down the track as I am not 100% confident in the factory rails taking the weight MMM say.

I think we all need to be careful of what numbers we are talking about. Mitsubishi rate the rails at 100kg's. The factory fitted crossbars from my reading I believe are rebadged Rhino racks, not sure what they rate these to. Rhino racks rate all crossbars and platforms at 80kg's if fitted to the factory rails. Mitsubishi rate the roof to carry only 70kg's without the rails, whether this is implying a track system is rated to less by them I'm not sure? Rhino uprate their crossbars to 100kg's when fitted on a track system.

Personal preference would be to do away with the factory rails but for now that has been time and cost prohibitive, I'm only carry 15-20kg's on my platform for now and at most loaded up maybe 50kg's, yet to do a big trip in this car yet to need to resort to storage on the roof.

[neil120y]

Here are the only photos I have at present. I'll try to take some more in the morning. I feel much better about my racks being directly attached to the roof, rather than to the rails, especially off road.
With 5 kids, I don't have much boot space. The camper trailer is at maximum weight, even without a boat rack and boat. 9 week trip to the Kimberley next year. Not leaving without a boat.

Neil

[neil120y]

Hi Guys

Here are some photos of the rails I took this morning.

Neil

[neil120y]

2 more...

[Paj People 2009]

Hi Guys,

We spent the weeknd camped at Neurum Creek.

Had the Oztent , camp stretchers and sleeping bags, etc on the roof.

Did some very bumpy and corrugated tracks thought Mt Mee yesterday (yes, very dirty car!) - pics coming.....

Everything sat threre fine - no probs to report and nice and secure.

We have the rails with a Pioneer Platform on it.

Cheers,
Sally

[jdove]

Hi Neil120y (and others)
I'm a newbie doing my first post and hope this has not been asked before.
I am looking at getting a near new NW and will need to fit my Rhino boat loader also. How hard was it to drop the roof lining?? from what I can see it looks straight forward. And can you buy the rail kit on its own? and if it's not too rude what sort of $$ can I expect to pay. I'm asking this because all my local enquiries to suppliers will only quote me the fitted price.
And am I right in thinking the rails are only held in with a few pop rivets??or are there some bolts I didn't see in the photo's. The thought of my tinnie being held on to the vehicle with a few rivets does scare me a bit, Like you I always use a rope from the tinnie to the nudge bar to help tie the front down.
Cheers

[insect_eater]

stresspoint-free rhino-track fitting

sorry for dragging out an old thread, but this is the only place I've seen the suggestion to screw/sikaflex the tracks rather than rivet, and I want to do it properly

From an engineering point of view the the Pajero is well placed as the monocoque construction is very strong. However extreme care needs to be taken when attaching directly to the roof so as not to create stress points or alter the inherit design flexibility of the structure.

Most aftermarket fitters will just pop rivet the track on, this is to save time and money as most people want the cheapest price!

If it was my car I would remove the head lining and attach the track to the roof skin, along the roof seam, use stainless screws, large diameter SS washers and SS nyloc nuts. Multiple smaller screws (5mm or 6mm dia) is much better than fewer larger diameter screws. Try to position the holes evenly and not through or too close to spot welds. Deburr all holes both sides and prime and paint. Use a flexible jointing compound between the track and the outer roof skin like Sikaflex.

I am soon to drop the headlining and fit tracks - has anyone had a stab at fitting them as suggested by OJ?

OJ, am I correct in assuming that you are trying to avoid stress points by mounting the tracks in a way that allows an even spread of 'connection' between the track and roof (via large washers and sikaflex). Is this about incorporating some degree of flex/movement between components (sikaflex flexibility), or is it primarily about spreading the connection over the largest contact area (and sikaflex just accommodates the different behaviours of different materials)? Apologies if I have mangled the technical terms.

I think the instructions have 5-6 rivets over 1950/1980mm of track - how many screws do you suggest over this length?

[old Jack]

8 to 10 by 6mm diameter screws per rail should be enough. Most important thing is to space them between the spot welds so until you have access then the exact number will be unknown. The screws will be under 2 different loads, they will be in shear from acceleration, deceleration and centrifugal forces, and in tension from uploads as the wind passes over the loaded roof rack at speed (think of the load like a planes wing creating lift).

The sikaflex serves serveral purposes, providing a water tight seal even under flexing, provide a degree of adhesion to share the dynamic forces and to prevent vibration/oil canning between the rail and the roof skin.

Yes the above is most likely overkill, how many reports are there of rivets failing or roof leaks? I just think 6 rivets per rail is marginal if travelling off road with a loaded rack. Pop rivets also have a habit of losing there tension and failing when the car is driven on corrugated roads for extended periods.

OJ.

[NTPeach]

What about the amount of weight it can hold stationary? I am just about to lay some dosh down on a Rhino platform and Rhino legs for a RTT. The tent weighs about 50-60 kegs, I'm around (ahem) 100 kegs, and my missus is around 55 kegs. How safe is that for us and the roof when parked for a night or 5?

[insect_eater]

8 to 10 by 6mm diameter screws per rail should be enough. Most important thing is to space them between the spot welds so until you have access then the exact number will be unknown. The screws will be under 2 different loads, they will be in shear from acceleration, deceleration and centrifugal forces, and in tension from uploads as the wind passes over the loaded roof rack at speed (think of the load like a planes wing creating lift).

The sikaflex serves serveral purposes, providing a water tight seal even under flexing, provide a degree of adhesion to share the dynamic forces and to prevent vibration/oil canning between the rail and the roof skin.

Yes the above is most likely overkill, how many reports are there of rivets failing or roof leaks? I just think 6 rivets per rail is marginal if travelling off road with a loaded rack. Pop rivets also have a habit of losing there tension and failing when the car is driven on corrugated roads for extended periods.

OJ.

Thanks heaps for the detailed explanation OJ. I intend to give this a stab, and will report what I find and how I go.

[Merts]

What about the amount of weight it can hold stationary? I am just about to lay some dosh down on a Rhino platform and Rhino legs for a RTT. The tent weighs about 50-60 kegs, I'm around (ahem) 100 kegs, and my missus is around 55 kegs. How safe is that for us and the roof when parked for a night or 5?

The roof load capacity is determined based on when the vehicle is being driven. It has as much to do with the stability issues OJ has mentioned as it does the actual load bearing capacity. In addition, those dynamic loads far exceed the static weight.

Short answer, 2 or 3 hundred kg static load won't be a problem.

[NTPeach]

The roof load capacity is determined based on when the vehicle is being driven. It has as much to do with the stability issues OJ has mentioned as it does the actual load bearing capacity. In addition, those dynamic loads far exceed the static weight.

Short answer, 2 or 3 hundred kg static load won't be a problem.

Thanks

[Pajshomoneroguntero]

Thanks

Just don't go getting too "dynamic" up there

[NTPeach]

Just don't go getting too "dynamic" up there

If it can stretch to 300kg then that should allow for some horizontal folk dancing.