HELP! Changing the crankshaft pulley

[Sveinandre]

Hi all, I got a 3,2 GLS 2001
It looks like I got to change my pulley on the crankshaft, pretty vobbely.
Wonder if some of you guys could kindly tell me about your experience regarding this matter. What im most wondering about is the removal, I see in the workshop manual it say to use this metal bar to block off for rotation. How is that. Also thinking about not rotating the crank anti clockwize (tensioner). And at last. Fitting it back. WM says 333nm

[BrokeAsFix]

Oh man, removing mine to get the timing belt was hell! Car had been driven through sea water and the bolt had seized horribly.

I built a crank pulley holder from iron angle and three bolts from Bunnings. It still took a 600mm breaker bar and a 1m cheater bar to get it done. The noise was horrendous!


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[Sveinandre]

Oh man, removing mine to get the timing belt was hell! Car had been driven through sea water and the bolt had seized horribly.

I built a crank pulley holder from iron angle and three bolts from Bunnings. It still took a 600mm breaker bar and a 1m cheater bar to get it done. The noise was horrendous!


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Thanks for the quick reply m8, Your tool gives me some good ideas for how to come trough this matter. Did you have to do something about the chain tensioner? Thinking about you maybe turned engine counter clockwise

[erad]

On my wife's TF Magna, I accidentally undid the crankshaft bolt. It was ultra tight and the torque I was applying to the bolt was winding the engine up in the engine mounts, so I got my wife to hit the starter to move the crank to a different position to get better purchase. However, at that stage, I had not disconnected the crank angle sensor and the engine fired! Luckily, I was well clear of the breaker bar because it flung around, hitting the chassis somewhere but the engine was running with the breaker bar and bolt hanging vertically (the bolt was totally undone. I don't recommend this procedure, but I have since seen other posts which recommend this. Obviously you have to ensure that the breaker bar will not hit any pipes/cables/electrical items etc before you try this one. If you are desperate, this may be worth trying.

[tomwithannl]

On my wife's TF Magna, I accidentally undid the crankshaft bolt. It was ultra tight and the torque I was applying to the bolt was winding the engine up in the engine mounts, so I got my wife to hit the starter to move the crank to a different position to get better purchase. However, at that stage, I had not disconnected the crank angle sensor and the engine fired! Luckily, I was well clear of the breaker bar because it flung around, hitting the chassis somewhere but the engine was running with the breaker bar and bolt hanging vertically (the bolt was totally undone. I don't recommend this procedure, but I have since seen other posts which recommend this. Obviously you have to ensure that the breaker bar will not hit any pipes/cables/electrical items etc before you try this one. If you are desperate, this may be worth trying.

This is a very acceptable way of undoing crank bolts, if done properly. When doing them back up (unless you have a manual trans and someone standing on the brakes) you will still need a tool similar to BrokeAsFix's. We used this technique on everything up to large trucks including removing trans output shaft nuts prior to removing gearboxes for repairs.

Tom

[old Jack]

This is a very acceptable way of undoing crank bolts, if done properly. When doing them back up (unless you have a manual trans and someone standing on the brakes) you will still need a tool similar to BrokeAsFix's. We used this technique on everything up to large trucks including removing trans output shaft nuts prior to removing gearboxes for repairs.

Tom

I too have used the starter motor to crank the engine to undo a tight crankshaft bolt but the spark plugs have always been removed or the spark plug leads have always been disconnected so the engine cannot start. If it the car has a manual transmission then you can place it in first gear and push the car forward whilst there is a spanner on the crank bolt wedged tight against the body.

Alternatively remove the all radiators/heat exchangers from the front of the engine until you have enough room to get a rattle gun on the crank bolt.

OJ.

[Sveinandre]

I too have used the starter motor to crank the engine to undo a tight crankshaft bolt but the spark plugs have always been removed or the spark plug leads have always been disconnected so the engine cannot start. If it the car has a manual transmission then you can place it in first gear and push the car forward whilst there is a spanner on the crank bolt wedged tight against the body.

Alternatively remove the all radiators/heat exchangers from the front of the engine until you have enough room to get a rattle gun on the crank bolt.

OJ.

Just what I got, I got the GLX manual trans. So its as easy as that, just a ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and 1st gear 1meter and its loose? The crank will then wind the bolt of?

[Kingbrown]

..... If it the car has a manual transmission then you can place it in first gear and push the car forward whilst there is a spanner on the crank bolt wedged tight against the body.

OJ.

Just wondering whether selecting a high gear would provide greater mechanical advantage than the low gear ?

[old Jack]

Just wondering whether selecting a high gear would provide greater mechanical advantage than the low gear ?

Your right KB, because the gearbox reduction becomes a multiplication when driven from the other direction.

The gear ratios 1st to 3rd are reduction gears, lets say 1st is 14:1, 4th is usually 1 to 1 and 5th is an overdrive gear of 0.8 :1, so let's do the math.

1 engine rev divided by 14 if the first gear ratio is 14:1, divided by 4 if the diff ratio is 4:1, equals 0.0178 of a tyre rotation.

1 engine rev divided by 1 if the 4th gear ratio os 1:1, divided by 4 if the diff ratio is 4:1, equals 0.25 of a tyre rotation.

So you have 14x more mechanical advantage by using 4th gear instead of 1st gear.

Apologies to all, thanks to KB for questioning the math.

OJ.

[erad]

First gear is the best because you have the greatest mechanical advantage. On my wife's Magna, the engine mounts were rather soft and I had the breaker bar in a position which had run out of room and leverage for me. I asked her to just touch the starter motor and luckily I was out of the way because the engine fired immediately and the breaker bar was just hanging vertically then - the bolt had undone itself very rapidly. I never had that problem with my Pajero though. Tightening the bolt was not problem because both the Magna and Pajero were manual transmissions and first gear with wife on the brakes worked perfectly.

[old Jack]

First gear is the best because you have the greatest mechanical advantage. On my wife's Magna, the engine mounts were rather soft and I had the breaker bar in a position which had run out of room and leverage for me. I asked her to just touch the starter motor and luckily I was out of the way because the engine fired immediately and the breaker bar was just hanging vertically then - the bolt had undone itself very rapidly. I never had that problem with my Pajero though. Tightening the bolt was not problem because both the Magna and Pajero were manual transmissions and first gear with wife on the brakes worked perfectly.

I am starting to question myself, that twice in one morning!
Respect both Erads and Kingbrowns knowledge, one of them is correct, I will just need to double check my double checking??????

OJ.

[Scooby]

Just coming off night shift so not quite with it, but you are effectively turned your car into a torque multiplier, so lowest gear gives the biggest reduction to give the biggest advantage.

[GHendo]

Well, seeing that when you clutch start a manual vehicle, you always put it in top gear (ie. 4th of 5th) so you have the best mechanical advantage, I would think you would do the same to do this - like OJ was saying.


Geoff

[erad]

Ghendo:
Theoretically, it doesn't matter what gear you put it in - as long as you have someone pressing the brake pedal. In practice, I found 1st gear gave a much more solid setup - possibly because it was winding the springs up as I heaved on the breaker bar, and in 5th gear there was a lot more movement of the bar than in 1st. I do know it was better in 1st gear to undo the bolt, and it was even better when I accidentally undid it via the starter motor.

[k100dennis]

Opposite way around to push starting. Select the highest gear to have least advantage over the drive train, which is what you want in this exercise.