Tips for buying NW Pajero

[Nuggy]

Hi all I've just joined the forum as I've committed to purchase a Pajero.

We are looking at getting a VR-X or Exceed NW or post DPF NT.

I'm after information on what to look for on a use Pajero. What are the common problems that I should check when doing an inspection. I'm aware of the standard items to check on every used car eg, oil quality, tightness of driveshafts, shifting quality ect.

Also I've noticed there is a huge difference in price vs the amount of kilometres driven. For example a 2012 exceed with 125kms is around 32 grand and the same model with 170kms is 25 grand. Interior and body work have the same wear. Should I be worried about getting one with the higher kilometres. Am I buying a hand grenade with higher kilometres. Is 50kms less worth 7 grand?

Also should I rule out any vehicles with a brake controller fitted? We will most probably buy from a dealer so no option of knowing what the car has towed. I'm guessing I just keep an eye out for airbags as an indicator of a car that's has towed heavy loads.

I feel the money I could save on a higher mileage car could be a camper trailer for us and a few mods for the new bus.

I've been following this forum for a while and there's some very knowledgeable posters on here I've learnt a lot about these pajeros already. I'm keen to hear your opinions.

[aussieintas]

Here's a link to a few threads on the forum to read and hopefully assist.

pajero nw purchase tips site:www2.pajeroclub.com.au

[MarioM]

I just bought an ex government auto GLX one from a yard with 190000 . It had some service history but the overall condition was so good i could not pass up . Also it had the extra tank fitted . My aim too was a VRX or Exceed but after weighing up ( i have dogs ) cloth vs leather cloth won out . I consulted this site and read up on the link posted above and checked all . The only issue with the car was the drivers mirror but now fixed . Its done its first trip with the van now and could not be happier . It does everything everyone here says they do . I`ll be keeping this for a long time .

I also had a look at some private ones including a black one that was listed as " immaculate " but was absolutely disgusting . Lucky it was only 5 minutes from home . Every panel was scratched and dented and looked as though some parts had been sanded and even dents in the roof and they were asking $ 18000 ( nows it $16500 ) .

[jkwpajero]

There are many more forumites with greater overall knowledge than me. I will tell you my experience just for info. I purchased a white NW VR-X, first registered in April 2014, in late August 2017 with about 44,500 k's on it. One owner in as new condition from the original selling dealer. The original owner lived about 5ks from the dealer. I paid about $41k, maybe a bit too much, with OEM roofbars, an OEM steel bullbar and tow bar, OEM wiring loom with a brake controller fitted. It ticked all the boxes with a full service history. It has not missed a beat since, and although I have upgraded the suspension, tyres and a few more things, it remains a terrific touring vehicle and I love driving it. I think the VR-X is a good compromise as you get the heated seats etc without the horrible woodgrain inserts of the Exceed. You can forgo leather seats and just get good quality seatcovers. I have Wetseat ones in mine. Good luck with the search.


James

[Nab]

Pajero values seem to fall off a cliff after the magical 200,000km, much more than other brands for some reason. I noticed this when buying and then selling, the difference between a Paj with 170,000km and 210,000km is quite substantial. In reality, that 40,000km will make bugger all difference on a well looked after car.

If you plans to sell in a few years get the lower km one, if it’s a keeper km shouldn’t be too much off a concern.

[myth00n]

I'm relatively new to the forum, and thanks to the members here they helped me choose my new (used) Pajero GLX LWB (4x4)NW MY14 Manual.

I would recommend getting a car history check - https://www.carhistory.com.au

To summarize the advise given / to look out for:
1. The logbook service history - If all the services were carried out by authorized Mitsubishi service center or a reputed service center.
2. Tyres - The tread depth, uneven tread wear. Are they the same brand?
3. Does the steering pull one way or another? - Mine does, looking for a fix - hoping that a wheel allignment to fix this issue.

Not really qualified to give suggestions but you could check out this thread for more details.

cheers!

[Nuggy]

Hi guys.

I ended up buying a 2012 Nw Platinum. It came in stock condition from one owner with perfect service history. It had leather seats optioned in from the dealer. The old owner gave me the receipt from when he bought it and the leather seats were a non Mitsubishi option. On close inspection we noticed the were made from a lot tougher leather compared to the exceed. We are pretty happy about that.
It's got 175000kms but I felt that wouldn't be a big problem as I'm planing for intake clean valve clearance check and a transmission service. The front brakes have a shudder so I'll get new pads and discs skimmed. I also notice the idle is a little low, sometimes sits at 500rpm. I'm hoping the intake clean will sort that out.
First installs will be the scangauge, provent, resistor mod and a secondary fuel filter.
Will be putting on some roof racks. Just enough to carry a rod tube and a fold up gazebo. Anyone have any recommendations on roof rack brands.
Hopefully after that work and installs this will be a reliable car for my family and give us years of fun.

[Muzza]

Idle speed cold depends on heater setting, face only is low, feet and windscreen is faster idle when cold

[gas55]

I bought a 3 year old NW GLS with 60,000 on the clock, and with 2 years warranty left.
The car was an ex-rental (I know, still can't believe I did that), but the car was in immaculate condition, had services done more regularly than required, and the price was great, probably because it was a rental. But I thought 'what the hey', it's a diesel and little more than run in.
After 4 years, it has been over half the country, some parts several times, towing a caravan and has never been a problem.
I do all my own work and most servicing. It has never had a drop of oil added between services using Penrite oil.
I have added the indicator lights in the door mirrors, a K&N filter, blanked off the EGR valve (never had a light come on), a stainless nudge bar and LED light bar, dual battery system, LED high beams, daytime running lights in the grille, a head unit in the dash, and air-bags.
Have been to the US and come back with half a suitcase of Meguiars polish and wax. Here they can be up to $25-29 a bottle, there: $6.70 from Walmart. The car absolutely gleams, sales of sun-glasses around my suburb have gone thru' the roof.
Maybe I just got lucky, the car has still got tremendous shove for a diesel and I couldn't be happier with it.

Greg

[bennyb29]

I bought a 3 year old NW GLS with 60,000 on the clock, and with 2 years warranty left.
The car was an ex-rental (I know, still can't believe I did that), but the car was in immaculate condition, had services done more regularly than required, and the price was great, probably because it was a rental. But I thought 'what the hey', it's a diesel and little more than run in.

I have added the indicator lights in the door mirrors, a K&N filter, blanked off the EGR valve (never had a light come on), a stainless nudge bar and LED light bar, dual battery system, LED high beams, daytime running lights in the grille, a head unit in the dash, and air-bags.
Have been to the US and come back with half a suitcase of Meguiars polish and wax. Here they can be up to $25-29 a bottle, there: $6.70 from Walmart. The car absolutely gleams, sales of sun-glasses around my suburb have gone thru' the roof.
Maybe I just got lucky, the car has still got tremendous shove for a diesel and I couldn't be happier with it.

Greg

Awesome! I had bought an ex rental Corolla and used it for about 1.5 years adding about 30k kms on it, knowing very well it was an ex rental. Used that to negotiate on the price. Car was perfect when compared to other cars of similar vintage. Sold it to a dealer for over 80% of the price i bought it at. So, IMHO if you know what you are getting into, ex rentals are quite the bargain.

That said, any thread documenting the mods you have done on your car?
I am interested in the DRLs as well as indicators on the side mirrors.

[gas55]

Thanks for the interest.
You may be a little unlucky as have seen better spec NT's with the indicators in the mirrors.
I couldn't be bothered trying to find decent ones at a wreckers, so went to local MM dealer and grizzled at the price and got them cheaper; I think from memory at about $150 each.
What you will find is that the indicators are very simple and easy to connect, just unclip the black plastic cover from the lower edge, test existing leads for positive feed, connect while leaving a little extra wire for the mirrors to fold, and clip clear assembly in place.

The problem I had was with the 'puddle lights' which are built into the assembly and point to the ground.They are meant to come on when you unlock the car from a distance, and stay on till the door is closed.
But these are negatively switched, probably because they are on time delay or whatever, and are controlled by the ECU. A techie at MM told me that you have to have the correct ECU installed. (Maybe he didn't know how to program it?) If you are more capable than me you can try running wiring thru' the door from interior lights, but I think you would have to be very careful of polarity. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this site who could probably advise.

With the DRL's, nothing could be closer to the truth than the old "you get what you pay for" saying! I tried heaps of different led's, from eBay, all with amazing claims as to their brightness, but as soon as they were in sunlight they disappeared. Do yourself a favour and get something at the higher price range with a decent power draw and with a bit of depth to it, because you need some type of reflector to project the light, similar to a led work light.

My grille has the chrome, 3 layer look coming in at an angle at the bottom. I also have a chrome nudge and a light bar on the lower section of the bar, so I had to keep the light up at either the top or second section of the grille. After checking legalities with Transport, I opted for the middle section and got a controller from eBay which turns the lights off after 15 secs. when accessories is on and turns the lights to half strength when parkers and headlights come on. If the lights you choose have a mounting bolt/bolts in the back, just cut a piece of aluminium plate about the same size as the light and use that as a backing plate to bolt up to the back of the grille. If no bolts, get some 3M tape and stick to the solid section of the grille and some silicon around the rest: mine have never moved and I can get the silicon off if I have to.
If you go for the top section of the grille, you could go for an 8 or 9 led light. I have just the 6 led. Would like to know if any one has been game enough to crack their head light open to fit one of those 'neon' rope lights!
Hope this has been some help.

Greg