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Generation 4-1 Pajero NS Model 2006 - 2009

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Old 4 Weeks Ago
Jim Hannah Jim Hannah is offline
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Default ns did inet manifold.

Hi, I am working on my did paj...replacing the timing chain tensioner, and decided I'd dig in and do the inlet manifold clean at the same time.

Ive got the fuel pipes to the injectors off no problem, but it seems I need to remove the common rail too. Are there any issues with this I need to be aware of. There used to be a really good detailed description on here about removing the inlet manifold, but I've been looking for an hour or so now, and can't find it.

Bought a set of crows foot socket spanners this morning...damned set jumps from 16 to 18mm, and our injector pipes are 17mm.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Axis Axis is offline
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Hi Jim,

This may be the thread you are after. It is a sticky in the mechanical section.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=33278

No issues that I recall removing the common rail. I'm due to do mine again as well. I looked at the crow feet spanners at supercheap and saw they were missing 17mm too.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
Jim Hannah Jim Hannah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axis View Post
Hi Jim,

This may be the thread you are after. It is a sticky in the mechanical section.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=33278

No issues that I recall removing the common rail. I'm due to do mine again as well. I looked at the crow feet spanners at supercheap and saw they were missing 17mm too.
Thanks for that...that's the link I keep finding too...it's for doing the valve clearances though, which I have already done.

So in removing the common rail, its just the four injector pipes and the other two to be loosened and moved gently out of the way? There won't be any need for bleeding on reassembly or anything like that?

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
rgrubby rgrubby is offline
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From memory...
I just undid whatever needed to be undid to get the rail out.
Use a rag under each pipe as you undo them to catch the diesel.
When you have put it all back together there is no need to bleed them. You can simply prime the fuel lines with the pump on top of the fuel filter, but I honestly don't remember if I did that.
When I put mine back together and tried to start it, it wouldn't start and the engine light came on. The code told me to check the fuel lines, I found I hadn't tightened the line into the common rail. Easy mistake, easy fix.
Here is a photo of the common rail bits removed from mine

Common rail.jpg

More info here...
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...t=60737&page=2
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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aussieintas aussieintas is offline
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Hey Jim easy way to search is through google not thrpugh the site.

Have a look at link below, its the procedure o n a triton but same motor, lots of detail and pics.

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/downl...le.php?id=3834
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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aussieintas aussieintas is offline
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Also have a look at this thread

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...anifold+goodsy
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2008 NS X SWB DiD auto in cool silver, Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, MCC bull bar with Stedi Summit fog/DRL's, Airtec(TJM) snorkel.

Previously
88 NF SWB 2.6 manual
92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
99 Cruiser 4.5 manual with all the fruit
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
justcruizin justcruizin is offline
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Replace all gaskets and seals while you have it apart. My mechanic did this with mine not long ago and said he would not use anything but genuine parts for this job as it is not worth having to pull it all down again to fix a cheap aftermarket leaking gasket/seal.
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