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  • Two Emms
    Valued Member
    • Jan 2020
    • 1358
    • Mansfield, Vic

    #16
    As you intend using this torque wrench for wheel nuts (at first, who knows what it may lead to )
    make sure the socket you use is six sided (on the inside that is) not one of the usual multi faced jobs. Whilst a decent multi faced socket may not slip under decent torque, a six sided one wont slip. No damaged wheel nuts, no bad words.
    2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent 200 catch can, Boos bash plates (full set), Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, Titan fridge slide, Kings springs, Toyo Open Country AT3s, Auto-mate, Ultragauge, Uniden 8080s, Tanami x11, more to come...

    Comment

    • Seigried
      Valued Member
      • Apr 2016
      • 732
      • brisbane

      #17
      I have the aldi 1/2 28-243Nm one and a HRD 1/4 2-24Nm. Just need a 3/8 to cover the gap.

      I use the aldi one on my wheels with a long impact socket to clear the wheel face.

      Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

      Comment

      • Jasonmc73
        Valued Member
        • Jun 2019
        • 2692
        • Brisbane

        #18
        Originally posted by WHID View Post
        I was beginning to think that the SCA ToolPro wrench was pretty good value for a mid range item. However, all torque wrenches will go out of calibration and it appears that on this one, there is no obvious facility to recalibrate it.



        Cheers . . . a (slightly) more informed apprentice.
        In relation to calibration, if you invest in Aldi wrench as example & ever worked out its incorrect.

        No need to calibrate this unit as its $30.

        Throw is away & buy a new one with calibration certificate

        UNLESS you are putting fuel tank fittings in a space rocket of course?

        Or rebuilding drag cars on weekends etc.
        Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

        Comment

        • disco stu
          Valued Member
          • Dec 2018
          • 3106
          • Wollongong

          #19
          There aren't too many places that are that critical for torque that you need to stress too much I think. I would say 95+% of wheel nuts installed are done without torque wrench (never see mechanics or tyre shops use torque wrench) and it rarely if ever causes issues, so even an incorrect torque wrench will be way better than normal

          Comment

          • WHID
            Member
            • Oct 2019
            • 148
            • Melbourne

            #20
            Thank you lads. Lots of very good advice here, all of which has given me some direction. Thank you.

            I nearly went for the Warren & Brown device, but thought it was probably a bit of over-kill given I'm currently only planning on torquing wheel nuts.

            Ended up purchasing a Total Tools wrench (1/2" SD 40Nm - 210 Nm) - a mid-price tool. Also purchased a couple of longish impact sockets - one for the nuts on each of my cars.

            Impact sockets? Yep, well, who knows? I might just purchase a rattle gun at some time. Now, there's a scary thought . . . me with a rattle gun. Watch out! . . . stripped and stretched threads from here to breakfast time.

            If you need me, I'll be out in the driveway, servicing my anal needs (not sure I like that expression) and torquing wheel nuts - all 44 of them. A delightful way of killing time in this confounded isolation . . . don'tcha think?

            Cheers . . . your local thread stretcher.
            Last edited by WHID; 18-08-20, 05:17 PM.
            Paj. Sport Exceed MY2019 - 'Genuine' Tow Bar / Boo's Bash Plates / SS Hoops on an Ironman Bull Bar with Recovery Points / 7" 48W LED Driving Lights / Western Filters/Provent 200 Catch Can / at 3,400km, its first pin-stripes - *he winces*

            Comment

            • Scooby
              Valued Member
              • Jan 2011
              • 1601
              • Ipswich, Qld.

              #21
              Now that you have the tension wrench it is time to read up on what lubricants do to tensions, this also includes anti seize compounds.
              Basically putting grease on threads will have you over tensioning by double.
              The grease reduces the friction so the resistance is halved.
              Scooby, Scott, Scooter, Whatever.

              Pajero 2013 NW VRX DID Auto. Basically Stock. 300k. Heavier rear springs to tow the GG’s. Automate also to tow the GG,s.

              Pajero 2002 NM GLS V6 Auto. Basically stock. 385k.

              Comment

              • Jasonmc73
                Valued Member
                • Jun 2019
                • 2692
                • Brisbane

                #22
                Originally posted by Scooby View Post
                Now that you have the tension wrench it is time to read up on what lubricants do to tensions, this also includes anti seize compounds.
                Basically putting grease on threads will have you over tensioning by double.
                The grease reduces the friction so the resistance is halved.
                It will certainly increase the clamping force applied.

                I've often wondered about this, I was taught to apply lubricant to head bolts & under head of the bolt, which increases clamping force is why we obviously do this at given torque force applied to bolt thread.

                But lube or no lube did i apply extra force to that bolt by lubing thread? I still used the same 6 foot bar on it? Or did I just allow higher clamping pressure to be applied by that thread/ bolt due to less friction in the thread with same torque applied to the bolt?
                Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

                Comment

                • rgrubby
                  Valued Member
                  • Apr 2018
                  • 627
                  • Wellington - NZ

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Scooby View Post
                  Now that you have the tension wrench it is time to read up on what lubricants do to tensions, this also includes anti seize compounds.
                  Basically putting grease on threads will have you over tensioning by double.
                  The grease reduces the friction so the resistance is halved.
                  That is an interesting point I hadn't realised.
                  Thanks
                  2007 NS Pajero GLS Diesel. Factory rear diff lock. Custom rear bumper. Custom side steps. Kaon and ASFIR bash plates. Cooper Evolution MT tyres. Couple of CB radios. UltraGauge. Provent 200. Traction control diff lock mod. ARB Comercial bull bar with custom brush bars and Domin8r X 12,000lb winch. Dobinsons and Kings raised springs and shocks. TJM snorkel

                  Comment

                  • Scooby
                    Valued Member
                    • Jan 2011
                    • 1601
                    • Ipswich, Qld.

                    #24
                    Just an example on big yellow dump trucks.
                    Wheel nut tension
                    Dry 1200 lb/ft
                    Wet (anti seize) 700 lb/ft
                    If tensioned to 1200 lb/ft with anti seize would snap studs strip nuts to the point wheels would be almost falling off.
                    So always read the spec’s.
                    A nut and bolt may seam simple but it just depends what it does.
                    Scooby, Scott, Scooter, Whatever.

                    Pajero 2013 NW VRX DID Auto. Basically Stock. 300k. Heavier rear springs to tow the GG’s. Automate also to tow the GG,s.

                    Pajero 2002 NM GLS V6 Auto. Basically stock. 385k.

                    Comment

                    • WHID
                      Member
                      • Oct 2019
                      • 148
                      • Melbourne

                      #25
                      Yep! I'm ahead of you on that one, Scooby.

                      Love him or hate him, John Cadogan has a good video covering that. From memory (that's always suss, so I could be wrong), I think he said reduce the torque setting by 30%. There's other material around as well.

                      I like the idea and have been tempted to go down that particulat (anti-seize) track. However, it is likely that all that TLC puts at risk the wheel studs, their threads and the rotors when the vehicle is subsequently put in the hands of someone else - e.g. a service person or tyre dealer (who is unaware/non-thinking/non-observant). Then, it may all go pear-shaped, especially when the rattle gun comes out.

                      Thanks for the heads-up anyway.

                      Cheers . . . dry thread Theo.
                      Last edited by WHID; 18-08-20, 07:11 PM.
                      Paj. Sport Exceed MY2019 - 'Genuine' Tow Bar / Boo's Bash Plates / SS Hoops on an Ironman Bull Bar with Recovery Points / 7" 48W LED Driving Lights / Western Filters/Provent 200 Catch Can / at 3,400km, its first pin-stripes - *he winces*

                      Comment

                      • Two Emms
                        Valued Member
                        • Jan 2020
                        • 1358
                        • Mansfield, Vic

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Scooby View Post
                        Now that you have the tension wrench it is time to read up on what lubricants do to tensions, this also includes anti seize compounds.
                        Basically putting grease on threads will have you over tensioning by double.
                        The grease reduces the friction so the resistance is halved.

                        .....and then there is the case of thread locking compounds. looks like a reduction of 15 - 20% needs to be factored in.



                        Just gets more and more complex

                        In OPs case they are wheel nuts. No threadlocking compounds involved. I have taken wheels on and off for many many years and never used a tension wrench. So far none have fallen off. So far.....
                        Last edited by Two Emms; 18-08-20, 06:39 PM. Reason: More info
                        2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent 200 catch can, Boos bash plates (full set), Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, Titan fridge slide, Kings springs, Toyo Open Country AT3s, Auto-mate, Ultragauge, Uniden 8080s, Tanami x11, more to come...

                        Comment

                        • twisted32
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2015
                          • 303
                          • Adelaide

                          #27
                          Originally posted by WHID View Post
                          Thank you lads. Lots of very good advice here, all of which has given me some direction. Thank you.

                          I nearly went for the Warren & Brown device, but thought it was probably a bit of over-kill given I'm currently only planning on torquing wheel nuts.

                          Ended up purchasing a Total Tools wrench (1/2" SD 40Nm - 210 Nm) - a mid-price tool. Also purchased a couple of longish impact sockets - one for the nuts on each of my cars.

                          Impact sockets? Yep, well, who knows? I might just purchase a rattle gun at some time. Now, there's a scary thought . . . me with a rattle gun. Watch out! . . . stripped and stretched threads from here to breakfast time.

                          If you need me, I'll be out in the driveway, servicing my anal needs (not sure I like that expression) and torquing wheel nuts - all 44 of them. A delightful way of killing time in this confounded isolation . . . don'tcha think?

                          Cheers . . . your local thread stretcher.
                          Just make sure you back off the spring tension after use. Not doing this is the quickest way to upset the calibration in any spring tension style torque wrench...
                          MY14 GLX Pajero DID auto with Lift, 265/70 R17 Yoki X-AT's, Full Bushskinz plates , Scotts Rods 3" TBE, Johnny Tig FMIC, TME ECU remap, Provent, OL Bullbar, Ironman 9500lbs winch, dual batteries, Lockup mate lite, nomad valve body, aeroflow AF72-6000 transmission cooler with 9" fan and radiator cooler bypass, 3.15 reduction gears, traction contol mod (on/off), Uniden 8080S, flappy paddles, Rhino flat rack mounted on ARB rails, 42" Stedi ST3K light bar and custom drawers

                          Comment

                          • WHID
                            Member
                            • Oct 2019
                            • 148
                            • Melbourne

                            #28
                            Originally posted by twisted32 View Post
                            . . . make sure you back off the spring tension after use . . .
                            Thanks Twisted . . . Hmm! . . . and I thought I was the only (twisted) one . . .
                            Paj. Sport Exceed MY2019 - 'Genuine' Tow Bar / Boo's Bash Plates / SS Hoops on an Ironman Bull Bar with Recovery Points / 7" 48W LED Driving Lights / Western Filters/Provent 200 Catch Can / at 3,400km, its first pin-stripes - *he winces*

                            Comment

                            • Jasonmc73
                              Valued Member
                              • Jun 2019
                              • 2692
                              • Brisbane

                              #29
                              I do agree with all the comments,

                              When i worked for Costain whom was brought out by Peabody resources underground in the mines, we use to paint anti seize like using butter on bread.
                              It works hence it's called anti seize, does just that funny enough.

                              Also vibrating/ rattling continuous miners the company use to hire out to coal mines along with the rattling tunnel borers were assembled with loctite again like using butter on bread, how do i know because i had to use an oxy torch to melt it, to take it apart & if your not careful it spits at you.

                              Sometimes we can over complicate things me thinks with tension & wrenches,

                              I do like the idea of tension wrench wheel nuts or just learn how many hugger duggers they need.
                              For me with std wheel brace they need one good foot push each when dry . This tension will be different for strong males as i'm only weak.

                              I'm only late 40's so plenty of time yet, but i've never busted a wheel stud ever, with a 400 Ft/Lb Milwaukee I reckon you could or maybe 4 foot length of pipe on a vehicle i'm talking about.

                              The only reason i will use Anti seize on a 4wd is dirt & salt.
                              In my life & each to there own of course, but Anti seize is what it is, it is used for stopping threads becoming seized & it works for me, again each to there own.

                              Be careful how many hugger duggers you use is a good tip in my humble not very educated opinion.

                              AutoExpert discount roadside assistance package:https://247roadservices.com.au/autoexpert/A lot of people warn against lubricating wheel nuts (and wheel stud...
                              Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

                              Comment

                              • artymr2
                                Junior Member
                                • Jul 2020
                                • 21
                                • WA

                                #30
                                Rattle guns are good for taking nuts off. Wouldn’t use it to tighten. The cordless ones are very handy.

                                For wheel nuts the absolute accuracy of torque wrench isn’t that critical, it’s the consistency that each nut is the same tension. Can help avoiding warped discs etc especially if you really use the brakes eg racetrack.

                                Cheers

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