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Trying to fix super select lights

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  • marcthelegend
    Valued Member
    • Sep 2008
    • 1172
    • Gosnells, WA

    #16
    I had an issue where i couldn't change between 2H / 4H when in motion, it was caused by using the spare tyre of all things! I believe it would've created a difference in speeds between the front and rear wheels.

    Same goes for turning when trying to change mode, front wheels spin at a different speed to the rear wheels and causes it to not quite match up as it should, often creating a grinding noise.

    Providing that the shaft move in when engaging 2H and out when engaging 4H then thats working well, only other part that fails is the sensors in the transfer case which i've read are costly to repair / replace.

    Cheers,

    Marc
    05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.

    To-do:
    brake upgrade, oil seals (again!!)

    Comment

    • Knightmayre
      Member
      • Sep 2012
      • 76
      • Melb

      #17
      I'm having the same issue- in 2wd the 4wd lights flash but when put into 4wd they light up solid instantly so I am assuming that it's stuck in 4wd.
      Also when I try to engage the centre diff the light for that flashes and won't go off until I put it back in 2wd.

      I'm getting vacuum at both sides of the rod thingy that goes to the diff so I am guessing that the solenoids are working OK.

      I can't drive it right now as I am still waiting for the sheetmetal place to finish modifying my bull bar brackets.

      I've checked that site that explains how to test the super select system but it goes over my head.

      Any advice on how I should proceed?

      Thanks
      Dave
      They shaved the beards of our mothers with razors made of bronze,
      They stole all our good LP's and ate all the potato scones.

      Comment

      • marcthelegend
        Valued Member
        • Sep 2008
        • 1172
        • Gosnells, WA

        #18
        Originally posted by Knightmayre View Post
        I'm having the same issue- in 2wd the 4wd lights flash but when put into 4wd they light up solid instantly so I am assuming that it's stuck in 4wd.
        Also when I try to engage the centre diff the light for that flashes and won't go off until I put it back in 2wd.

        I'm getting vacuum at both sides of the rod thingy that goes to the diff so I am guessing that the solenoids are working OK.

        I can't drive it right now as I am still waiting for the sheetmetal place to finish modifying my bull bar brackets.

        I've checked that site that explains how to test the super select system but it goes over my head.

        Any advice on how I should proceed?

        Thanks
        Dave
        I'd be inclined to think the sensors in the transfer case, if its stuck with the front wheels locked (actuator is pulled back) it'll still go into 2H (mine's been 'locked' for around 3 years now) but eventually it will throw an error code.

        When switching into 4H the actuator moves out to engage the front diff with the driveshaft and the transfer case moves its own actuator to engage the driveshaft.
        05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.

        To-do:
        brake upgrade, oil seals (again!!)

        Comment

        • phillipp
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2017
          • 3
          • New zealand

          #19
          what does it mean if its only going into gear some times as when i change it the shaft isnt always doing what i want it to but the lights say that it is?

          Comment

          • marcthelegend
            Valued Member
            • Sep 2008
            • 1172
            • Gosnells, WA

            #20
            The shaft is a very primitive design, its just a spring loaded diaphragm so it always returns to 4H when the car is turned off or if there is a failure with the solenoids.
            They are well known to fail and the most common symptom is a car that either wont go into 4H (stuck in 2H) or will switch between 2/4 but after a while will the centre diff light will start to flash (stuck in 4H)

            There really isn't a great deal that can go wrong with the actuator itself unless its been impacted like mine did.

            I'd say (without seeing it with my own two eyes) that if it's intermittently not doing what its instructed to do that the solenoids are not working as they should (sticking) .. some people have has success spraying contact cleaner into them, mine however did not. a full replacement from Aliexpress set me back around $28 and my problem is now resolved.

            Cheers,

            Marc
            05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.

            To-do:
            brake upgrade, oil seals (again!!)

            Comment

            • phillipp
              Junior Member
              • Apr 2017
              • 3
              • New zealand

              #21
              can i fit 92 model cvs on to 94 model paj

              Comment

              • cool_dube
                Junior Member
                • Nov 2019
                • 8
                • India

                #22
                Hi folks,

                A question on shifting from 2H to 4H on Super Select II - when engaging 4H for the first time after the car has been idle for a few days, the (upper) green lights blink for 10 sec or so before turning solid. Thereafter, for every subsequent engage/disengage, they change immediately. Is this normal behavior?

                Thanks in advance.

                Comment

                • TC.Barky
                  Valued Member
                  • Oct 2011
                  • 3573
                  • Melbourne

                  #23
                  Originally posted by cool_dube View Post
                  Hi folks,

                  A question on shifting from 2H to 4H on Super Select II - when engaging 4H for the first time after the car has been idle for a few days, the (upper) green lights blink for 10 sec or so before turning solid. Thereafter, for every subsequent engage/disengage, they change immediately. Is this normal behavior?

                  Thanks in advance.
                  Normal. Need trailing throttle and car moving.
                  MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
                  Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

                  Comment

                  • nj swb
                    Resident
                    • Jun 2007
                    • 7333
                    • Adelaide

                    #24
                    Originally posted by TC.Barky View Post
                    Normal. Need trailing throttle and car moving.
                    Yes. Theoretically, this should fix it. Worst case, you might need a gentle bend - as each wheel travels at a slightly different speed, that can help the disconnector to engage (or disengage, when going 4H to 2H).
                    NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                    Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                    Scorpro Explorer Box

                    Comment

                    • cool_dube
                      Junior Member
                      • Nov 2019
                      • 8
                      • India

                      #25
                      Originally posted by TC.Barky View Post
                      Normal. Need trailing throttle and car moving.
                      Thanks, mate! My understanding is that the actuator pushes/pulls the actuator shaft in/out using vacuum power. If so, why does the car need to be in motion for that?

                      Comment

                      • Drewan
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2017
                        • 284
                        • Adelaide

                        #26
                        Super Confused select has a different normal in every car. Im on my 3rd gen 2. First had to be rolling foward , second came out when stopped. Latest needs to be put in reverse. Nust accept what ever works and be happy if its consistent
                        Over capitalized NK.I'm running out of things to add to it it died , now a SWB NJ with all the good stuff from the NK on it .

                        Comment

                        • cool_dube
                          Junior Member
                          • Nov 2019
                          • 8
                          • India

                          #27
                          Did a quick check of the 4H engagement system today. Put the car on ramp and had my mech slot across 2H and 4H repeatedly. I could see the actuator shaft moving in/out couple of times before it stopped doing so. I then asked the guy to move the car forward a few inches and lo, I could see the shaft moving again. So, the car has to be in motion indeed, for this mechanism to work consistently. That said, the fact that the whole system is dependent on a bunch of rubber pipes carrying vacuum - quite prone to fault given the vulnerability of rubber tubes to rodent attack, corrosion, etc. - does not match up to the robust SUV that the Pajero is. Why could they not have given something like the Borg Warner mechanism with electronically engaging FWHs. Thoughts?

                          Comment

                          • Drewan
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2017
                            • 284
                            • Adelaide

                            #28
                            But when it works it keeps working its,easy to forget that these are in some cases 30 years old and still working. The trick is to flick it in and out occasionaly
                            Over capitalized NK.I'm running out of things to add to it it died , now a SWB NJ with all the good stuff from the NK on it .

                            Comment

                            • cool_dube
                              Junior Member
                              • Nov 2019
                              • 8
                              • India

                              #29
                              Originally posted by Drewan View Post
                              But when it works it keeps working its,easy to forget that these are in some cases 30 years old and still working. The trick is to flick it in and out occasionaly
                              Agree! BTW, what is the flip-side of keeping the Pajero in 4H on a perpetual basis, other than marginally higher fuel consumption? Is it detrimental for the central differential in the long run?

                              Comment

                              • Drewan
                                Senior Member
                                • Apr 2017
                                • 284
                                • Adelaide

                                #30
                                Ok the basics made easy 4h isnt 4h as we know it 4H-is more All wheel drive ,and 4H Locked center is 4wheel drive. Thats why most of us tow in 4h on the black top some just leave it in 4H all the time and if you actually notice an increase in fuel use in 4H your cheaper than I am.
                                Over capitalized NK.I'm running out of things to add to it it died , now a SWB NJ with all the good stuff from the NK on it .

                                Comment

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