New NX suspension

[Buckos]

Hello folks. I have just taken delivery of a new NX Pajero GLX, trading my 2010 NT manual diesel GLX, making this the last of 5 we have owned. Cooper tyres were installed on the way home from the car dealer. I am trying to sort out what to do in regards to the suspension with this one, following experience with the previous.

Some background, on buying an Evernew poptop van in 2015, 1800kg. empty, 2400 ATM, we had ARB install a full OME suspension in the NT. We were advised to get the 300kg. springs, rather than 100 or 200, as our prime concern was to have the car and van sit level, especially when stopping for a single night. I also had no wish to use a WDH. This was an excellent setup when towing and on rough roads. However, around town, or anywhere with no van and minimal load, the ride would shake the fillings out of the teeth and the back door.

We have no desire to repeat this, but would like to be able to keep the van level when on the Hitchmaster DO35 hitch. Does anybody have any suggestions, based on experience, as to suspension set-ups that would achieve level towing and decent ride when not towing?

Many thanks in advance for any ideas.

Paul

[Ian H]

My van is similar to yours in weight and my latest set up is with Kings springs, having tried others which I wasn't happy with.

Front Kings KCFR34
Rear Kings KCRR35HD (progressive rated)

The car sits level with the van attached he feels fine off road, on tracks and also around town. No issues at all. They also gave me a lift.

I added Koni shockers but that may be overkill. They aren't cheap.

[erad]

Since the nose of the van will be down, why not fit your jockey wheel or stand and jack the rig until it is level? OK - my caravan is lighter than yours, but I don't use any weight distribution hitch - mainly because I already scrape the drawbar very heavily as I go in or out of my driveway. To use WDH wold mean that I could not get out of the driveway at all. I use airbags in the rear suspension to level the rig (yes - I know it doesn't help with weight on the rear wheels), but the air bags do stop the suspension from bottoming out on rough roads. Even with the air bags at minimum pressure (about 5 psi), I find the ride on the Pajero is rougher than it originally was. When new, it was not far off the ride quality of my old Range Rover, but the Pajero is streets ahead of the Rangie in every other respect.

[Ian H]

With the springs I've got, the nose of my van is very slightly up, not down. That's using the standard MM tow tongue and no WDH. That makes it great for staying hitched up overnight It's more of an issue finding level ground.

The ball weight is 194kg (measured with van full) and you can see from the space between the wheel and top of the wheel arch that things on the car look level with no noticeable sag. I've got air bags too, but only at about 7psi and it will ride higher if I unhook the van (obviously). If I wanted to drop the front of the van slightly, I could get a different tow tongue but I'm happy with it as is. I've also taken the lift kit off the spare and replaced the cover, since the van has a DO35 hitch and the door clears it with plenty to spare.

[old Jack]

Hi Paul,

OME Suspension,some people love it, others hate it!
No surprise to me that you found the OME aftermarket suspension hard riding, combination of wrong coils and the OME struts and shockers will cause this. OME coils are made by Kings and these are very good if the right coil is selected but you pay a premium for the OME name. OME struts and shockers are made to ARB's specification by Tenneco/Monroe, these tend to be overpriced for a twin tube gas strut or shocker and the valving in very firm on compression and soft on rebound.

The Gen 4 IFS and IRS is very sensitive to set the suspension up, so your average off the shelf suspension setups that most aftermarket sellers tell you need can give you poor results, particularly if you are fussy. It is almost impossible to get the perfect setup for around town when empty and then be able to load to GVM + Full Towball load and still have acceptable ride heights front and rear, what ever you do then it will be a compromise. So do you compromise full loaded ability to get around town comfort or compromise around town comfort to get heavy towing load capacity or do you aim for the middle ground? The choice is yours!

To get a good a compromise as possible you need to be very clear on how much extra weight you are going to add to the front and rear suspension now, in the future and when fully loaded. No changing your mind and adding extra weight later but also pointless preparing for steel winch bar, winch, 2nd Battery, underbody plates, aux fuel tanks, water tanks, roof racks, rear storage systems, etc, etc, only to never fit them.

I am happy to work through the process with you but there are no shortcuts. It will require you to be realistic with your expectations and accept the limitations that whatever suspension you fit will have. If you provide me with the information I need then I can give you several options and point out the advantages and disadvantages of each option, so you can make an informed choice. This process can take several weeks of email exchanges and cannot be rushed. The end result will not be perfect but it will be a whole lot better than the factory suspension or taking a gamble on an off the shelf aftermarket suspension upgrade.

OJ.

[cruisn06]

I just knock 5 psi out of my rears when I am empty.. sorts it out good enough.

[Mundy55]

I put in Dobinson springs and shocks as part of a 40mm lift when, after 2 years, the OEM springs started to sag. When the rear did not come up as expected, Dobinsons replaced the rear springs with ones they specially wound to give the result required, at no additional cost. Very happy with their service and the ride I now get.

I tow a 1400kg camper and so use polyair bags to mostly maintain the ride height and stiffen the rear when hitched. Very happy with these also.

[Buckos]

Hello again folks, looks like votes for Kings and Dobinsons so far and thanks for that.

In reply to OJ, we are happy to sit in the middle of fully loaded and town comfort, with a small bias towards the fully loaded end of the spectrum. As regards your list of possible additions, from my experience we will be putting a second battery in the car, hopefully under the bonnet but, if not, in the rear behind second row seat. None of the other things you list, bars, roof, underneath, will be in. Our vehicles tend to remain fairly standard, except for the need to improve the suspension and tyres as most makers tend to fit modest equipment in that area.

We travel with an Evakool 70 litre fridge in the rear, 3rd. row seat removed and minor food/clothes and souvenirs on the rear seat. Thus additional weight is kept low, most stuff is in the van. We are not necessarily looking for a huge lift, although the OME gave us 40mm which was fine. Again, many thanks for any help you wish to provide.

Paul

[old Jack]

Hi Paul,

Do you know what your towball download is when your van is fully loaded?

Combined weight of front seat occupants?

Combined weight of second row occupants or cargo carried in this place.

Total weight carried in the rear cargo area when loaded?

OJ.

[Buckos]

Hello OJ,

Thanks for your response. Sorry, no genuine idea of towball download, having been designed and built for us by the great Bruce from Evernew, with good balance, one could suspect around 200kgs?

Front seat combined weight approx. 140kgs. second row no occupants, travelling load would never exceed 30kgs. and usually much less.

Rear cargo area would be around 35kg. maximum for fridge, plus bits and some tools, say 55kgs. On the previous car, the second battery was here, but I am told that it can fit under the bonnet with this car. Worst case, it stays in the back, so add 30kg. or so in the rear if that happens.

Some of this is not very exact I realise, but best I can manage, sorry.

Paul

[farcanal]

Hello OJ,

Thanks for your response. Sorry, no genuine idea of towball download, having been designed and built for us by the great Bruce from Evernew, with good balance, one could suspect around 200kgs?

Front seat combined weight approx. 140kgs. second row no occupants, travelling load would never exceed 30kgs. and usually much less.

Rear cargo area would be around 35kg. maximum for fridge, plus bits and some tools, say 55kgs. On the previous car, the second battery was here, but I am told that it can fit under the bonnet with this car. Worst case, it stays in the back, so add 30kg. or so in the rear if that happens.

Some of this is not very exact I realise, but best I can manage, sorry.

Paul

Auxiliary battery fits very nicely under the bonnet, with the right tray fitted.
I believe the Pajero comes with 2 batteries ex factory in cold (freezing) climates.

[old Jack]

Hi Paul,

I have been working on your suspension calculations and need the following information.

1. With the car parked on level ground can you please confirm;
a. The front and rear ride heights. Measure these with the car empty, from the centre of the wheel
hub to the underside of the wheel arch, measured in a vertical line.
b. The measurement from the ground to the top of your DO35 pin height?

2. With your Pop Top unhitched and the drawbar level what is the height above the ground of the top of the DO35 hitch.

3. With the car parked on level ground and the Pop Top is hitched up what are the following measurements? My assumptions are based on a 10% towball download. Ideally it would be best to measure this accurately. This is also likely to change as the caravan is loaded. Chances are there will be an Easter Sale of from Repco or Autobahn so you should be able to pickup a scale for under $100. This is a good thing to have as it helps you check if you are loading the caravan correctly.
a. Front ride height, measured from the centre of the hub to the underside of the wheel arch, in a
vertical line. I suspect this is 10 to 20mm higher than when the PopTop was not hitched up.
b. Rear ride height, measured from the centre of the hub to the underside of the wheel arch, in a
vertical line. I suspect this is 20-30mm lower than when the Pop Top was not hitched up.
c. The top of the DO35 Coupling height above the ground when the Pop Top is hitched up.

4. Does your Pop Top have single or Dual axles?
If Dual axle what sort of suspension? Independent? Air?, Leaf Rocker Load sharing? Leaf Fixed
Eye? Leaf Slipper?

5. Are you intending to fit the suspension yourself or have it done for you?
If so who are you thinking of using for the installation?

OJ.

[Buckos]

Thanks OJ, that looks like a job for this weekend, I shall get to work on one of the days when the PM says we are to stay home and advise the results. I can give you some answers to 4 and 5 now, it has Cruisemaster independent suspension, I can verify the model name/number later. Certainly not intending to fit the suspension myself, I had thought I would get it fitted by the supplier, whoever that turns out to be, I will obviously need one in Adelaide.

Paul

[Buckos]

Hello OJ,

Been out with the measuring tape and results are as follows. There is a difference between heights side to side, as you can see. The car is parked under our carport and when the concrete floor was done, a 1% slope was allowed for drainage. The car was parked for this exercise with the driver's (right) side on the lower side of the carport, which may affect the measurement, I don't know. The slope is virtually imperceptible to the naked eye. Anyway, answers to your questions:

1. a. Front right 495mm, front left 500mm, rear right 510mm, rear left 520mm.
b. ground to top of DO35 when in position 507mm.

2. Van unhitched, level, to top of DO35 plate 470mm.

3. a. Front right 500mm, front left 508mm.
b. rear right 485mm, rear left 490mm.
c. height to top of DO35 pin when hitched 440mm.

4. Van is single axle and has Cruisemaster XT coil independent suspension, dual dampers each side.

5. As before, fitting to be by supplier. I once fitted dampers to a Sigma wagon and never again!! Supplier would need to be in Adelaide.

Thanks very much for your time, please do not waste too much of this weekend on this if you have family to spend it with.

Regards, Paul

[old Jack]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the info.
How many kms on your NX?
Minimum legal rear ride height is 488mm so you a right on the limit when you are hitched up. I am assuming the van is empty, so how many kgs do you think you will load into the van also how many litres of water do you put in the tanks?
I am looking to see how close we can get the rear ride height to your 470mm top of coupling on the draw bar.

I am aiming for 525- 535mm front and 560-570mm rear when unloaded. When you are loaded as per your weights I hope to get you close to level at around 535 front and rear, so your caravan drawbar is close to level.
Edit: Note drawbar level height above the ground is 470mm as a 50mm drop hitch will most likely be required to get the drawbar level.

I can only work off theoretical manufacturing specifications provided to me by the spring manufacturers and they tell me there is up to a 2.5% tolerance on their coil springs. 2.5% is a lot, a coil that is 345mm in free length then worse case is a free length of between 336 mm and 354mm. Especially when a 10mm change in coil free length results in a 20mm change in ride height? I have used Kings, Lovells and Dobinson coils and have generally found Kings to be closest to specifications.

OJ.