Retrofitting Factory rear diff lock

[The_Bat]

Hi,

I'm not sure if this has been covered before or not, if it has I'm happy to simply be directed to the previous thread.

Can you retrofit the Mitsubishi rear diff lock into a Pajero that wasn't delivered with one? In my case I have a base model NT, negative rear diff lock and am just curious if it is possible (in the first instance) and feasible, additionally I wouldn't mind knowing how much of a dick around it would be to give it that factory capability.

Cheers in advance.

[Dion]

I believe it's quite a bit of mucking around.

For the likely cost and mucking around, it's easier to get ARB to a fit a RDL. That way you also get to keep traction control on the front wheels.

This is what I will do if I ever decide I need a locker. Due to an order stuff-up mine never came with one and it was too late to get another platinum edition with one.

[gzeca]

Can be done. Done it myself to mine. Isn't much messing around.
Need the diff, drive shafts and the compressor.

Would need wiring and ecu for diff lock but I just connected it thru a arb diff lock switch so I can use it whenever I want

[P4J3R0]

Check the cost.

Mate of mine blew the factory diff lock in his triton. Priced it all up and heaps cheaper to get arb locker and compressor.

[spot01]

Or try the wreckers?

[The_Bat]

Cheers everyone

Yeah my master plans had been to try and grab a rear diff and associated locking gear out of a wreaked Pajero and then have it installed so I just wanted to canvas the idea as I was certain I wasn't the first to think of this. The cost was the big consideration as the ARB option from memory with compressor fitted was likely to be around 2k mark so I would have been keen to see if I could save some coin there.

That is a good point mentioned about retaining the front traction with the ARB locker, although I had been reading on hear that there is a work-a-round to achieve that with the rear locker.

gzeca; if you had your time again would you use the Mitsubishi one or would you go the ARB option?

[4wd26]

If you retro for it is so much easier to treat it as aftermarket than to try and get to work as factory

That is fit and actuate via a independent switch rather than try and get it to e a factory install showing lights on the dash etc, disable traction control etc

The factory system is pretty dumb/ simple in reality, it works just like a ARB air locker, need a switch the locker and factory compressor

[gzeca]

For the cost I got everything for the factory diff was wayyyy cheaper.

Never had an issue with it and being that its able to be turned on and off. The traction control still works aswell

[Kilek]

I am currently trying to achieve the retrofit in Costa Rica and when looking Montero/Pajero differentials with locker I come across 12 bolts, while my is 10 bolts. It would have to have whole axle replaced. Would you know why there are 10 and 12 bolts differentials and would you recommend keep looking for 10 bolts or replace it with 12? Also, would you worry with ratio as car were having different relation between diff wheels.

Thanks!

[NJV6]

Sounds like a second generation Pajero, 10 bolt we’re smaller diff, 12 bolt larger. Also ratio is very important to get the same.

[El_Freddo]

Anyone got the part number for the shorter driveshaft to fit the factory locker?

And does the complete diff bolt in as per the factory open diff?

Lastly:

Do the above to mean it will bolt into the NP? I’m looking at a locker from an NS and need to know that the above two things are definitely needed to fit this locker to the NP.

I was hoping it would use the same driveshafts. Annoying that MM made a custom shaft. It’s like the missing piece of the puzzle.

Any insight from those that definitely know, or have done this mod to an NP/NM is greatly welcomed at this point!

Cheers

Bennie

[RockRock]

Getting power to retrofitted rear diff locker

Hi,

I'm not sure if this has been covered before or not, if it has I'm happy to simply be directed to the previous thread.

Can you retrofit the Mitsubishi rear diff lock into a Pajero that wasn't delivered with one? In my case I have a base model NT, negative rear diff lock and am just curious if it is possible (in the first instance) and feasible, additionally I wouldn't mind knowing how much of a dick around it would be to give it that factory capability.

Cheers in advance.

Hi everyone,
I have read all your posts with interest ad I am trying to retro fit a factory diff locker to my 2009 NT. I've sourced a diff and axles, a wiring loom for under the car, the compressor and dash switch, all from a wreckers. Ive installed all of these. The dash switch, when I went to put it in had the wiring in the back of the blank, so that connected straight in. This was the same as the wiring under the car that connected to the diff.

The wiring loom under the car did have some extra wires that wrecker had cut off about half way along the loom that goes down to the LHR wheel, (looks like an ABS/traction control sensor). But I couldn’t see any other factory plug they would plug into and so I just taped them up. I thought they may be going to another “option” that my model didn't have, like the rear sonar.

But the main plugs, on the other end of the loom that went from the diff and then back to two big plugs that then run back into a main wiring loom, they were connected in. So it "seems" I have all the wiring bits underneath the car,

Now the problem is that I cant get any power to the switch in the dash and hence to the compressor.

I've checked the fuses, there isn't a designated one in the fuse layout that was blank which I can now fill since I have a rear locker fitted. I've tried testing the switch when I have the car in 4LC- as I thought that may have opened the power to the dash switch. But that doesn’t work either.

Ive read other feds when people talk of earlier generation Pajero of an transfer ECU required for a retro fit but I haven't read anything about one of these for the NT and onwards so I thought the ECU may be integrated with the engine ECU and therefore not something I need for buy separately for this retro fit.

So I am wondering if anyone can tell me what I am missing to get this to work?

Thanks.

[nj swb]

The switch doesn't power the compressor directly. The switch signals the transfer ECU to engage the diff lock, which will then make its own decisions on whether or not to actually do it. Have a look at this wiring diagram: http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...E06AC00ENG.pdf

[RockRock]

Thanks for your help I'll check it out.

[RockRock]

Sorry to be a pain, but is there a seperate transfer for the ECU in the NT? I’m figuring it’s a bit hard for the front switch to tell the ECU anything hint if I don’t have one... thanks again.