Lifted the bonnet and the paint code says YM it's a 2000 model, I need more info can you guys help
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Help with paint code
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why is it so fkn hard
Originally posted by NFT5 View PostYM is the code for the OEM multi-tone combination of:
- Cambridge Red AC11178, and;
- Athens Silver AC10921.
they have a red flat but my color looks to be metallic and Athens Silver the same as Munic Silver
i really dont want to go to MM
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It's not really that hard, at all. Every manufacturer uses codes to identify colours. For refinishers the only problem is with manufacturers who don't put the colour codes on the build plates (e.g. Kia before the Hyundai takeover) or who, like Volkswagen, use paper stickers that self destruct as soon as they get wet. Either way, a dealer can identify the colour code from the VIN - just ring the Spare Parts Dept and get them to look it up.
I have no entry in my system for a Roseanne Red for Mitsubishi.
You should never rely on the colour name to identify it. Names change according to market, from year to year or even from model to model. The only way to correctly identify a colour is by its code.
The codes I gave you, above are the full Mitsubishi colour codes. They also have short versions which are, generally, in a two letter, two number format and these are also ok to use. Sometimes there are just two letter codes - these are not reliable since they're just used by the specific factory and may be re-used by another factory for a different colour.
For Australian built Mitsubishis there is only the factory two letter code on the plate - that's ok because we know which factory. But if, for example, we had Magnas built in Japan as well, then it could get very confusing. Ford have a real problem with this.
Regardless, always use the code on the build plate. On a Pajero that's usually on the firewall although later ones have a sticker on a door frame, while Tritons have it on the radiator support panel, firewall or front door frame. Sometimes there will be two different codes on the two stickers or plates. Always use the two letter/two number one in preference to the two letter one.Chris
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Originally posted by NFT5 View PostIt's not really that hard, at all. Every manufacturer uses codes to identify colours. For refinishers the only problem is with manufacturers who don't put the colour codes on the build plates (e.g. Kia before the Hyundai takeover) or who, like Volkswagen, use paper stickers that self destruct as soon as they get wet. Either way, a dealer can identify the colour code from the VIN - just ring the Spare Parts Dept and get them to look it up.
I have no entry in my system for a Roseanne Red for Mitsubishi.
You should never rely on the colour name to identify it. Names change according to market, from year to year or even from model to model. The only way to correctly identify a colour is by its code.
The codes I gave you, above are the full Mitsubishi colour codes. They also have short versions which are, generally, in a two letter, two number format and these are also ok to use. Sometimes there are just two letter codes - these are not reliable since they're just used by the specific factory and may be re-used by another factory for a different colour.
For Australian built Mitsubishis there is only the factory two letter code on the plate - that's ok because we know which factory. But if, for example, we had Magnas built in Japan as well, then it could get very confusing. Ford have a real problem with this.
Regardless, always use the code on the build plate. On a Pajero that's usually on the firewall although later ones have a sticker on a door frame, while Tritons have it on the radiator support panel, firewall or front door frame. Sometimes there will be two different codes on the two stickers or plates. Always use the two letter/two number one in preference to the two letter one.
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Originally posted by D@niel View PostHey mate, my NT Pajero paint code is w09 which is summit white. Is that the same white as the Gen 3s use or is it close? Cheers
Originally posted by jimcarr2008 View Post
This is what it should look like, off the gun.
Chris
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Your right!
Originally posted by NFT5 View PostFor the solid white? Yes, but there are 3 variants.
Nice peel. Cut it back with 800 wet until almost flat, then finish with 1200 wet. Then reclear it. Bump your pressure up a touch, open fan to max and hold the gun not more than 150mm from the panel, Move a bit quicker - on bonnet that size each stroke should take about 2 seconds, depending on gun. Start on one side and paint with 50-75% overlap until half way then move to other side and continue painting towards you. You may need a slower thinner.
This is what it should look like, off the gun.
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