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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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  #1  
Old 18-08-16
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Default A quandary

So, Shorty has been my daily driver for a while now, and is approaching 200k km - time for a timing belt change.

So I've started to collect bits & pieces - I have a Repco timing belt & pump kit, was about to order a set of valve stem seals & lash adjusters. Then I realised it's burning more oil than I thought - too much (I think) for it to be the valve stem seals alone?

Dropped in to ask my mechanic his thoughts, and he believes there's a knock in the bottom end - not the answer I was hoping for.

So what to do?

I'm attached to my shorty - I can't imagine anybody is going to offer me enough money to part with it, it's worth more to me than it is to anybody else.

I was already comfortable with spending $1000 ish on timing belt / water pump / valve stem seals / lash adjusters. I've already found a drive in / drive out recon (bearings & rings) for $3k, but I'd probably want a more comprehensive rebuild than that. Another larger mob has quoted $4700 for a comprehensive recondition of my motor, drive in / drive out - so I get to keep my engine number.

But if I'm going to spend that much, why stick with a 1980s era petrol V6? Why not go the late model DiD? Duplicate the drivetrain in my NT - I already have the transmission.

Why keep Shorty at all? Why not dump it, and buy something better suited to daily-driver duties? Because I don't want a new car, I'd probably end up spending $5k - $10k over and above what I'd get for Shorty, and still have an old, second hand car with an unknown history. I'd want a diesel - I loved the driving characteristics of the diesel Golf, and I'd want something with a lot of torque. Like the DiD in my NT, but I don't want to use my NT as a daily driver. So spend $5k - $10k on Shorty, and have a modern, torquey diesel for running around town. Maybe, one day, put an aux tank underneath it, and Shorty would have more fuel capacity than my NT...

So.

1. Go ahead with the $1k or so, to extend the life of the not economical 3litre petrol. Or
2. Spend $3k - $5k on a rebuild of the V6. I've re-built a petrol engine before, so I could do most of the spanner-slinging myself, and save some money. Or
3. Buy a wreck and go nuts. Unfortunately, I'm not much of a fabricator, so physical install of the new engine & drivetrain I'd need to find some help. The electrical / electronics side I'm happy I could sort out - I converted my Sigma to EFI without much trouble, and I'm telling myself this would be the same, just (much) more of it... Then I'd need to figure out drive shafts & diffs, find out if the Rego people would want bigger brakes...

Note that the "dump and run" option didn't make the list. I've never been good at making the smart choice.

What to do?
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #2  
Old 18-08-16
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If I could afford it I would have to go with the 4M41
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  #3  
Old 18-08-16
Tuba Tuba is offline
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If its a daily, drop it on its guts, 3.0 GT engine, no front diff and tubs.

Someone needs to complete this task. I recall a thread starting the project, but never completing.
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  #4  
Old 18-08-16
Hill Hill is offline
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Another option

4. Buy a golf

Hill
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  #5  
Old 18-08-16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hill View Post
Another option

4. Buy a golf

Hill
I sold the Golf for a reason.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #6  
Old 18-08-16
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MSF MSF is offline
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Keep your eyes out...

Saw a 2008 NS SWB R DiD with 148,000km at Auction go for $8,900 last week..
Looked clean and tidy, had an ARB Bar and Bushskinz Intercooler guard as the only mods...

That would be worthwhile trading up to over the NJ.. (which ironically exactly what I did going from my NJ GLS to the NS X)
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  #7  
Old 18-08-16
Pwoffey Pwoffey is offline
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This is a tough one, but you obviously have a strong emotional attachment to the Shorty. If it were me I'd probably spend the $1k and see what happened. At the very least it would allow you to postpone a more definitive decision, which mostly works for me

After my own experiences with a Golf, I wouldn't touch one.
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BY13/MY14 Pajero NW GLX Auto, Cooper ST Maxx, factory towbar, Drifta drawers, SmartBar, Airtec snorkel, Koni 90 front and Bilstein 6272 rear shocks with Lovell HD springs, Lightforce 170 Halogen driving lights, Brown Davis i/c, sump and transmission bash plates, Piranha diff breathers, Fuel Manager pre-filter, LRA 81L auxiliary fuel tank, Piranha steel battery tray, Sherpa 9500 lb winch, HPD catch can, LockUp Mate, Kaon cargo barrier, Harrop front e-locker, DBA T3 rotors and Xtreme pads
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  #8  
Old 18-08-16
Hill Hill is offline
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!

Exclamation mark for previous comment.

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  #9  
Old 19-08-16
A Sweaty Pajero A Sweaty Pajero is offline
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or ls3 it with a supercharger for fuel economy of course if i do an engine swap, it would be a 4m41 or a ls2 but then again for me my pajero will hopefully be my weekend toy with a sas by then.
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  #10  
Old 20-08-16
LanaB LanaB is offline
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Red face

I have a sub tank that's a start
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