Engine oil for NW diesel?

[_jp_]

I had trouble using the search function for this, so apologise if someone has already answered this before.

I have an NW diesel which is soon to reach 7500km at which point I'd like to perform my own intermittent oil change.

At the risk of opening a massive can of worms, can you please advise your recommendation, experience or cautions regarding which engine oil to use.

The dealership I purchased it from advised they use "Caltex Delo Synthetic Blend 10W/40" but can't find that exact product. Also, I think the Delo branded items are generally sold in drums for commercial application, not your average home mechanic.

Cheers.

[Yclept]

Sometimes it's easier to search the site using Google.

Throw something like this into a Google search box: "site:http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au engine oil"

[_jp_]

Sometimes it's easier to search the site using Google.

Throw something like this into a Google search box: "site:http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au engine oil"

Thanks Brett. I wanted to specifically search the Generation 4-3 section of the forum for the word "oil", not the whole site.

[schnitzel]

Most oil companies now have a commercial range and a retail range, the retail equivalent for yours is

quote"

MITSUBISHI (Also see FUSO)
Pajero (4x4) NW, 4M41 3.2 Litre Turbo Diesel (2011-2014)

Crankcase
HAVOLINE FULLY SYNTHETIC 5W-40
Service Refill Capacity: 9.8* Litres
See notes 499, 83 below.

unquote" staright from the caltex site

http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Lubricants/Pages/OilFinder.aspx

[Muzza]

Yes you are right about opening up a can of worms
The NW no longer has a DPF and therefore doesn't need a full synthetic oil

The general range
Would be
A 10/40 semi synthetic Diesel oil

Beyond this it up to your pocket

[schnitzel]

Yes you are right about opening up a can of worms
The NW no longer has a DPF and therefore doesn't need a full synthetic oil

The general range
Would be
A 10/40 semi synthetic Diesel oil

Beyond this it up to your pocket

sort of correct they dont have a dpf, they now call them after exhaust emission devices and the recommendation to maintain your service interval is synthetic but you could as in this case go semi if doing interim services although caltex dont list an oil of that type as suitable.

p.s. a semi synthetic diesel oil is far to broad a description i can pull up a heap of those that are definitely not suitable you need to be looking at the API and ACEA ratings, viscosity is not a good way of ensuring compatibility.

[_jp_]

Thanks all for your input (keep it coming). As per Schitzels lead I used the lubricant recommendation guide from various sites and the results are below

Dealer uses
Caltex Delo Synthetic Blend 10W-40

Caltex site recommends
HAVOLINE FULLY SYNTHETIC 5W-40

Nulon site recommends
FULL SYNTHETIC 5W-30 DIESEL FORMULA LONG LIFE ENGINE OIL

Valvoline site recommends
SYNPOWER FULL SYNTHETIC 5W-40

Penrite site recommends
HPR DIESEL 10 10W-40 (Semi Syn.) 10w-40

Shell website recommends
HELIX ULTRA 5W-40

Castrol site recommends
CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4


So now I'm even more confused as the viscosity recommendation varies between each manufacturer Does it just come down to personal brand choice?

[_jp_]

It looks like the Clatex Havoline doesn't and a "C" API classification, only an "S".
C = Compression ignition (diesel)
S = Spark ignition (petrol)

So with this in mind it looks like the Valvoline or Nulon (both fully synthetic) or Penrite (semi synthetic) are the most likely candidates. Although they recommend slightly different viscosity.

Just to clarify, this isn't a matter of money and I'm happy to buy fully synthetic oil, I just want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff.

[Dude]

The guy from the technical help line at Castrol told me about a year ago to use either the Castrol 5w 40 magnatec professional (only availible in 20l drums) or the Edge you found. He also said the magnatec desil 15w 40 was also suitable - I tried it and felt the car didn't go as well and so did my wife actually she commented first anti-placebo? Maybe but I diched it and went the 5w40 synthetic dpf oil from the dealership.

He also said as long as you stick to the big brands and follow what they recomend I'll be fine.

There are some horror stories in the US where some 'new'oils had traces of coolant and used engine oil. Some had the consistancy of water etc. But these were all dodgey sounding brands.

The oem oil isn't too badly priced if your nervous and I think its made by castrol anyway.

Interestingly though, and maybe Schnitzel can answer this, does the high saps (non-dpf oil) lubricate better since it has sulphated ash in it?

dude.

[boritz]

I did an NW MY13 intermediate oil change recently and MM dealers were price competitive:

2 x 5 litres Diesel Engine Oil 15W-40 Part No. AW351667 - API CD, CF; JASO DH-1; ACEA E3.

Oil filter Part No. 1230A046

Sump plug gasket 14mm Part No. MD050317.

[radical]

Don't use anything thicker than 5w-40. I originally started using penrite hpr diesel 5 (10 litre container). With no problems. Recently switched to castrol rx 15w-40 (20 litre drum) to save some money as I do all the servicing myself.

I found that the castrol oil caused timing chain rattle for the first 10 seconds or so on cold morning starts. Could be the oil pump needs more time to build up oil pressure with thicker oil?

With this last change I switched back to the penrite as the timing chain rattle worried me. Now the paj purrs again without a hint of timing chain noise. Oils ain't oils after all. I use Donaldson filters too.

[Nater]

I use Nulon FULL SYNTHETIC 5W-30 DIESEL FORMULA and change it out every 7500km inc filter. It's certainly not the cheapest oil around but why take the risk.

[Pajero1947]

I've had two different oils put in by two different Mitsubishi dealers,
one ; Valvoline Diesel Extra 15W40 the other ; Valvoline Semi Syn Dura SAE 10w40 ??.

Jim

[HSV Rangie]

dealers put what ever brand they can buy at the best rates, and get the best deals ect with.

[psproule]

They don't use an oil pressure actuated timing chain tensioner. It's simply a spring tensioner. Maybe they used a cheap filter with no drain-back valve, or maybe it's time to look at valve clearances.

Pat