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Photos - You and your rig! Show off your rig and your mods.

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  #151  
Old 28-06-20
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geopaj geopaj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
I was invited to Eagle View for the day.
Nice. It must have changed a bit since I was there last - it was more like a nice drive around some station/farm tracks without any really challenging 4wding.
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Silver NT VRX Di-D

| ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | airbags | Cooper AT3 LT's | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank in rear seat well | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

My Build Thread - HERE

Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')
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  #152  
Old 29-06-20
twisted32 twisted32 is offline
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Glad to hear it was just the prop shaft and nothing more sinister.
Do you remember getting warned last time about a hilux doing a tailshaft at that gumtree and to avoid it/take the chicken track..? I think the holes were about half the size then too...
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MY14 GLX Pajero DID auto with Lift, 265/70 R17 Yoki X-AT's, Full Bushskinz plates , Scotts Rods 3" TBE, Johnny Tig FMIC, TME ECU remap, Provent, OL Bullbar, Ironman 9500lbs winch, dual batteries, Lockup mate lite, nomad valve body, aeroflow AF72-6000 transmission cooler with 9" fan and radiator cooler bypass, 3.15 reduction gears, traction contol mod (on/off), Uniden 8080S, flappy paddles, Rhino flat rack mounted on ARB rails, 42" Stedi ST3K light bar and custom drawers
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  #153  
Old 29-06-20
Andythiing Andythiing is offline
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If it was at the gum tree I also broke a front diff on my old land cruiser at that spot 4 years ago😂
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SWB Pajero NT X diesel auto
2 inch lift
ARB bar and snorkel
Bushskinz bashplates and sliders
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  #154  
Old 29-06-20
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This is the first time I haven't driven it with ease, and (unless others wish to state otherwise ) I didn't think I was trying too hard.

Yes, the holes are definitely a lot larger than my last visit (July 2017), but I certainly wasn't trying to use massive amounts of momentum or wheel speed. I was attempting to use traction, with the knowledge that (if I needed them) I could resort to front & rear diff locks to ensure that whatever wheels were on the ground could drive. I started without lockers, wanting to see how far I could get without them, turn them on as I needed them.

A broken prop shaft changed things. Instead of true four wheel drive I ended up with only rear wheel drive.

As per my previous post, I don't believe I was too hard on my Pajero yesterday. I believe I was too hard on it almost 5 years ago, and the shaft copped a hammering then. The failure back then damaged the transfer case and CVs - I think it's reasonable that the shaft that joins those two points was also damaged, but hung in for a few more years. Razor had low range gears let go, and recently had to replace his front prop shaft for noise in the same joint, which (in my mind) supports the theory.

Only time will tell. If I break another front prop shaft I'll make enquiries about a stronger flex joint.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #155  
Old 18-08-20
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Must be time for another update.

The replacement front prop-shaft is leaking oil from the transfer case. I've had the seal replaced, but the oil is still dripping - a job for next week.

Yesterday was another tyre rotation of the Toyo M/Ts. That's the third rotation in a little over 30k km, and they've got between 8 & 10mm tread left (to the bottom, not the bars), so say about half worn. I won't keep them until they hit the treadwear bars, but I'd say they're on track for a nominal 60k - 70k km life - I think that's OK for the style of tyre, and the work they've done.

Tonight was install a transmission bash plate. Nominally easy, only four bolts, right?

The front bolts go into existing nuts that are welded to a cross member - and somewhat corroded after 10 years of 4wd use, so the bolts didn't come close to starting in the thread. I struggled to even get a tap started in the thread, but I managed to get them both cleaned up to the point I could run the bolts in with my fingers. Progress!

As my other two bash plates are relatively easy to install & remove, I figured this one wouldn't be too bad either - and I was wrong. It's larger & heavier, and doesn't have slotted holes to slide one end over the bolts as it goes in.

That's OK. As per the instructions, bolt in the front end (loosely), then put the rear bolts through the rear holes, and add the clamp plates on top. Except the rear bolts wouldn't go through the rear holes, because the cross-member was blocking half the hole.

Pull it back out, Dremel the bastards, try again! It's in, the bolts are tight (for now ) and I'm not looking forward to pulling it out.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #156  
Old 1 Week Ago
discodave555 discodave555 is offline
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2. The wiring harness on the old unit wasn't re-useable, so I had to make a run to Super Cheap to buy an adaptor harness. It turned out that the "Late Mitsubishi" harness I bought wasn't the one I needed, so I had to make another run, to return the harness to Super Cheap, and buy the one I did need from Auto Barn (conveniently located across the road from Super Cheap). For the record, I needed Aerpro APP0113 harness, not the APP0111.

3. The above wiring harness doesn't include the wires for the steering wheel controls, so I had to figure that out myself. The Joying unit has 2 wires labelled Key1 & Key2 that needed to connect to the two wires from the steering wheel controls. That was the easy bit. The difficult bit was figuring out that one of the wires needed to be grounded. I connected the Red/White wire to Key 1, the Black/White wire to Key 2 and to ground, and it all seems to work.


Hey mate, were you replacing the headunit on an NT?
Just working out which harness I need..

Also with the SWC - are you saying you didn't need a harness?

Thanks
Dave
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  #157  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Yes, I'm on my third or fourth replacement.

The adapter harness I bought didn't connect the steering wheel controls - I had to figure out the connections myself.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

Scorpro Explorer Box
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