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Generation 4-2 Pajero NT model 2009 - 2011

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  #21  
Old 28-10-13
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And intercooler has nothing to do with the cooling system.
In fact a lower intake temp actually puts more stress on your cooling system.
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  #22  
Old 04-11-13
billmcn billmcn is offline
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Thanks for all the reply's I had the car looked at in Dubbo at the dealer there, found nothing that would account for the overheating, the system was working ok. So I will take all the advice from this forum and see how we go.
Bill
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  #23  
Old 04-11-13
DaveH DaveH is offline
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Remember to tow in 4th not drive. On a long hill I believe it is better to keep the revs up. I would keep the revs between 2500 and 3000 which means you will be going down thru the gears.

By keeping the revs up the engine is not working as hard, the fan is blowing more air through, turbo is not working as hard and air intake is a bit cooler.
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  #24  
Old 05-11-19
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Default Both Eng and Trans run hot under load

Both Eng and Trans run hot under load.

Issue was first noticed over New Years heading to Jenolan Caves on a long gradual climb the temp gauge was just below red and A/C shut down. Then a month later towing an empty 12ft removalist trailer at speed the temperature again headed for the red (once slowed and in traffic the temp came down), then a couple of months later heading towards Gympie with a box trailer and two kayaks the temperature again spiked and A/C shut down.

So the vehicle went to my mechanics and the Transmission was flushed and cooling system checked with no problems found.

Have only done commuting with the car until recently when I did a short hill climb and again the temp spiked (just over the 3/4 mark).
I have just purchased on OBD2 reader and Torque Pro APP and done the short climb again and logged the data the car on two runs up did not get as hot as before but did see a rapid increase in temp. (also it was a cooler day)

What is the max reasonable temp both the eng and trans should get to under a reasonable load?
I did a cape trip last year and on the whole trip never noticed any increase in temp.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Eng and Trans temp.jpg (153.3 KB, 27 views)
Attached Files
File Type: xlsx Temperature Log-2019-Nov.-01 Ocean View.xlsx (155.5 KB, 11 views)
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  #25  
Old 05-11-19
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Great descripted post and love the graph

1. First thing I notice, is in the photos it is indicating you are in Drive, this will add to the load as the AT program will hold a higher gear than ideal and the torque convertor will be unlocked. This means under load the engine and transmission are having to work harder, so temperatures will increase as the cooling system of the engine coolant and ATF are being pushed to their capacity. I would suggest you use sports mode and manual change down to a lower gear and keep the engine rpm up and the torque convertor locked in 3rd or 4th.

2. Since you have been to the Cape, chances are you went through several water crossings where slit was stirred up. This slit laden water passes through the air channels of the radiator, AC condenser, ATF cooler and intercooler, as the dirty water passes through it leaves a deposit on the cooling fins. This deposit can build up quickly and insulate the surface of the fins so cooling capacity in reduced, it can build up until the air channels are completely blocked, once this happens the cooling capacities of all the heat exchangers is compromised and you will start getting over heating problems under load. it is common for the lower portion of the radiator, the in radiator ATF cooler and intercooler to start blocking up first as these components are mounted lower.
You can check this, but it must be dark, by having a very bright light shining directly agains the rear face of the radiator then viewing the through the front grille to see if you can see light through the air channels. Sometimes blocked air channels can be cleaned out in situ by run unning low pressure water through the heat exchangers but quite often the radiator need removal, as does the intercooler and the ATF cooler so these air channels can be flushed fully. Once out you can then get easy access to the rear of the AC condensor to flush the air channels without removing the condensor and then requiring an AC re gas.

3. Is the radiator shroud correctly installed, is it complete or are there sections missing?

4. Is the viscous fan working correctly? It should stop rotating almost immediately when the engine is shutdown. Lift the bonnet and observe the fan stopping as someone else switches the engine off.

OJ.
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  #26  
Old 05-11-19
erad erad is offline
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OJ wrote: "Is the viscous fan working correctly? It should stop rotating almost immediately when the engine is shutdown. Lift the bonnet and observe the fan stopping as someone else switches the engine off."

The ideal time to check the viscous coupling on the fan is when it is really hot - typically near the crest of a long climb where there is nowhere to pull over and see... If the fan is working correctly, you can actually hear the coupling cut in as the temperature starts to go up. the fan makes a lot more roaring sound. One way to check the fan is to try to CAREFULLY insert a piece of wood into the blades as the engine is running. If the fan stops, the coupling is stuffed and either needs replacing or recharging with silicone fluid. I had this issue on my old Range Rover. The fan would roar when I first started the engine, but would quickly quieten down - this is normal. Once the air coming through the radiator gets hot, the coupling should cut in and cause the fan to start pulling air. Mine didn't and in the end I was able to actually stop the fan with my hand (NOT RECOMMENDED). That convinced me it was crook. I bought a new coupling unit (no such procedures as recharging with new silicone fluid then), and all was well.
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  #27  
Old 05-11-19
spot01 spot01 is online now
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X2 for the graph - gold!


Following OJ's comment re the trans in D, also note one of the 2 trans coolers is in the base of the radiator, so it actually makes the cooling system performance worse by putting more heat into the radiator at exactly the time when it is struggling. So using OJ's suggestion of a lower gear with TC lockup to reduce trans temp may also help the cooling system to cope. It will also run the belt driven fan faster.
Have you checked the thermo fan is operating correctly when the car is running hot (not just when the A/C is on, as it is controlled separately for the 2 functions)?
Have you ever added a different coolant to it (as some don't like each other & cause a gel to form)?
Did the mechanic do a flow test for the radiator?
The belt fan should roar loudly when it is working hard - sounds like a truck is next to you! - should hear with windows up, or try window down through a cutting, tunnel or next to a wall, etc.

How much gear do you have in front of the radiatior. eg, insect screen, lights, plates, etc?
Was anything done to the car, eg, additions, cooling service, etc., when the issue started?
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  #28  
Old 05-11-19
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OP has a split pan design bull bar and full Bushskinz plates and we know from our tests that this is not an ideal combination to Maximilian airflow so this contributes to the inefficiency of the cooling system.
Here is a thread link to the experiments we carried out.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=59603

OJ.
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  #29  
Old 05-11-19
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Thanks OJ/spot01/erad, for the quick reply's.

I'll have my mechanic check your suggestions (radiator flow/gumming, silt etc blocking lower part of all radiators, etc)

Nothing has been added to the vehicle between normal operation and the onset of this issue.

I acknowledge that sport mode v's Drive can greatly reduce trans temp and Auto Mate is on my wish list. However the type of driving that has been causing this issue is extremely benign compared to past driving both on and off road that has not been an issue. (prior to this year the vehicle had been used for proper driving not just commuting )
Attached Images
File Type: jpg paj front.jpg (134.4 KB, 14 views)
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  #30  
Old 05-11-19
spot01 spot01 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martialllaw View Post
Thanks OJ/spot01/erad, for the quick reply's.

I'll have my mechanic check your suggestions (radiator flow/gumming, silt etc blocking lower part of all radiators, etc)

Nothing has been added to the vehicle between normal operation and the onset of this issue.

I acknowledge that sport mode v's Drive can greatly reduce trans temp and Auto Mate is on my wish list. However the type of driving that has been causing this issue is extremely benign compared to past driving both on and off road that has not been an issue. (prior to this year the vehicle had been used for proper driving not just commuting )
How many kms on the car?
Did you go through any deepish water on the Cape trip that might have been high enough for the belt fan to have a swim? How old are the belts & are they correctly tensioned? These fans have been the cause of quite a few issues in the past, so it is probably where I would start - they have tricked quite a few people who have sworn they were working OK, but ended up being the cause of overheating on climbs.
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