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  • disco stu
    Valued Member
    • Dec 2018
    • 3106
    • Wollongong

    Superselect trouble codes

    So the 4x4 system in my car isn't operating as it should-nothing new there it seems. I've been reading the myriad of threads about this issue, but still have a few questions.

    I've read about people getting superselect trouble codes. Is this only on gen 3? If not, how I do I retrieve them on gen 2-same as getting engine codes, or is there a method to check the superselect computer?

    Is the superselect computer located behind drivers side kick panel? I'm thinking of checking the connection in there to see if the transfer case switches are working properly and switching on when they should.

    The green lights are coming on intermittently on my car-only for the front though. They'll go solid, then back to flashing, then solid etc. Center diff orange light is doing similar, but when its on solid it will also flicker. Something not right somewhere (hope its not the user-took me a while to figure out how to put it into 4LLC). This is just driving back and forth on the grass out the front of my house

    Vacuum solenoids were replaced the other day. The actuator thing on the front diff isn't moving when moving between 2wd and various 4wd options. Power to the vacuum solenoids is not there in either 4h or 2h-stays at zip.

    That to me leads me to the switches on the transfer case, which look like more of an arse to change on gen 2 than on gen 3 with the fixed rear cross member. Just need to narrow down which ones could be giving the grief. I read about people running some higher current through them with a bulb as a load, I thought I could do that from superselect computer plug also.

    Anyway, simple question turned in to me giving way more info than intended, sorry. Would appreciate any pointers

    Cheers

    Stu
  • Dongskie2
    Member
    • Dec 2016
    • 170
    • Manila & Berwick

    #2
    I'm following this thread as my 4WD indicators are not lighting up at all.

    I saw 1 disconnected wire at the transfer case but I have no idea where to locate the sockets..

    So Im following this....
    Nothing beats Doing It Yourself.... Tuned 4M40 and 4D56T WIP

    Comment

    • disco stu
      Valued Member
      • Dec 2018
      • 3106
      • Wollongong

      #3
      I did read that there are 2 plugs on the lh side of the transfer case that connect the switches to the ecu, if that is any help Dongskie.

      This link addresses some of my questions and explains it's operation well: http://4wd.blogeasy.com/article.view...ticleID=318776

      Figured out the 4wd ecu is behind the radio area, whereas the manual says that it's in the rh kick panel on US vehicles. Now to see if the pin out is the same so I can test the switches

      Comment

      • disco stu
        Valued Member
        • Dec 2018
        • 3106
        • Wollongong

        #4
        Can someone check my thinking here:

        The selection at the transfer case is all mechanical, so the switches on the transfer case are for telling superselect ecu what is going on (and what lights to light up/flash) and the vacuum solenoids when to turn on/off. If you put the lever into 4HLc it will lock the center diff and put power to the front diff. Taking this into account, I could theoretically ignore flashing lights on the dash, put a switch in to power/depower the vacuum solenoids and then just put the lever into the desired range and flick the switch to put into 4wd when required

        Is that all correct? I'm thinking that screwing around changing the transfer case switches looks like more trouble than its worth-looks like its a gearbox out job on the gen 2 due to that welded in cross member. I just want the 4wd to work when I need it to, that's all I really care about.

        Comment

        • Alex86
          Valued Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 2416
          • Here and there

          #5
          My mechanic got a switch or two changed on the shorty gearbox by lowering the back end of it a bit (auto) if I remember correctly. Didn’t have to come out, I know that much.
          '99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
          Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

          '99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

          Wanted: Adventure.

          Comment

          • disco stu
            Valued Member
            • Dec 2018
            • 3106
            • Wollongong

            #6
            Thanks Alex. Mines manual if it makes any difference, but sounds doable at least

            Comment

            • dhula
              Valued Member
              • Sep 2012
              • 1196
              • South of Perth

              #7
              Originally posted by disco stu View Post
              Can someone check my thinking here:

              The selection at the transfer case is all mechanical, so the switches on the transfer case are for telling superselect ecu what is going on (and what lights to light up/flash) and the vacuum solenoids when to turn on/off. If you put the lever into 4HLc it will lock the center diff and put power to the front diff. Taking this into account, I could theoretically ignore flashing lights on the dash, put a switch in to power/depower the vacuum solenoids and then just put the lever into the desired range and flick the switch to put into 4wd when required

              Is that all correct? I'm thinking that screwing around changing the transfer case switches looks like more trouble than its worth-looks like its a gearbox out job on the gen 2 due to that welded in cross member. I just want the 4wd to work when I need it to, that's all I really care about.

              If you are confident the mechanical side of the T/case is working like it should be, another way is to take the SS ECU out and throw it over your left shoulder. Make sure the front diff actuator is locked in and then disconnect and plug the vac lines to the front diff actuator and be done with it. You can fit FWH if you like so that it's a bit quieter etc when running in 2H but you must remember to lock the FWH if you want to use 4H or else the T/case will be damaged.
              2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
              2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

              Comment

              • disco stu
                Valued Member
                • Dec 2018
                • 3106
                • Wollongong

                #8
                Ha ha!! Thanks Dhula. I'm not confident at this stage if transfer case is working like it should, not sure how to test it either to make sure. Car new to me and just fitted new engine while its sat in the yard. I'm getting a fair bit of squeek/squeel off front wheels when turning on the road etc, so I assumed it was locked or getting power.

                The lights are at least changing when shifting between 2h to 4h, then diff center light doesn't come on until its in 4HLc, whether its solid or flashing. I'm assuming its one of the switches that sends power to the vacuum solenoids isn't working.

                Comment

                • stumagoo
                  Valued Member
                  • Jun 2014
                  • 2064
                  • Perth WA S.O.R

                  #9
                  yeah in the gen 2 the ecu pretty much controls the lights on the dash - if they are blinking its normally the front diff system - either a solenoid is failing or the actuartor itself is jammed - the only other thing is the vacuum lines split or damaged - very rare for the transfer case to allow you to select a gear 4wd range and not actually do it as it is all mechanical
                  1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                  *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                  1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
                  .

                  Comment

                  • disco stu
                    Valued Member
                    • Dec 2018
                    • 3106
                    • Wollongong

                    #10
                    Sweet, thanks Stu. Just what I hoped to hear. Gives me a fall back option if this is too much trouble.

                    I'm testing the connection at the superselect ECU to see how the switches are going. I gather they are just earthed connections, but the resistance is weird on the ones that gave a change on shifting-moving 8ohm up to a few thousand ohm, and one was open and then gave a few thousand ohms. I'll try running some current through them so see how they work

                    Comment

                    • disco stu
                      Valued Member
                      • Dec 2018
                      • 3106
                      • Wollongong

                      #11
                      For the power to the vacuum solenoids, can anyone tell me if the is the negative or the positive that is switched?

                      The transfer case switches seem to be behaving correctly when testing with light globe. Superselect ecu is getting the 2wd to 4wd switch signal from transfer case fine, but the signal is not correct out at the vacuum solenoids. I was testing with light globe, trying to get which was positive on the plug and earthed one of the connections (inadvertently) and the solenoid clicked away. Other connector had positive.

                      It seems that negative is switched as positive was there regardless of the position of the 4wd selector.

                      That tells me that there is an issue with either the wiring between the SS ecu, or there is an issue in the SS ecu itself, more likely the SS ECU

                      Comment

                      • erad
                        Valued Member
                        • Mar 2015
                        • 5067
                        • Cooma NSW

                        #12
                        I think that you can tell the witching characteristics by the number of wires at the switch. If there is only one wire, it means that the switch closes to earth ie you should have 12 V all the time to the switch. I cannot be sure, but my fading memory tells me this is the way instead of 2 wires to the switches.

                        Comment

                        • disco stu
                          Valued Member
                          • Dec 2018
                          • 3106
                          • Wollongong

                          #13
                          That sounds logical, as it can't join anything else apart from earth.

                          I'm going to test resistance of wires from ecu to the vacuum solenoids. If that is fine then it must be the ecu itself

                          Comment

                          • disco stu
                            Valued Member
                            • Dec 2018
                            • 3106
                            • Wollongong

                            #14
                            Can't seem to get connection between SS ecu and connector on vacuum solenoid. Funny thing is there is a single spade connector tight on the wiring harness for super select just behind radio that has full continuity to the vacuum solenoid connector. Anyone know what that is supposed to be for?

                            Comment

                            • Fuzz260z
                              Junior Member
                              • Jun 2012
                              • 35
                              • thirroul

                              #15
                              Stu, my NL has the same single spade connector behind the SS ecu, not connected to anything. Perhaps a redundant connector...

                              My super select shows no lights whatsoever. Occasionally my center diff lock light will come on if Im in one of the center lock modes but not normally. Ive checked the globes they are all good and I have cleaned and checked the connection at the switches on the gearbox.
                              The 4Hcl and 4Lcl still work fine though, just no lights :/

                              Comment

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