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  • Nab
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 1410
    • Perth

    #16
    Is the tank buggered at the same point at the front of the tank or the side mount?
    SOLD 2004 NP 3.2 auto
    NOW 2014 Ranger XLT auto

    Comment

    • sharkcaver
      "2000"+ Valued Contributor
      • May 2009
      • 6270
      • Perth

      #17
      Originally posted by Nab View Post
      Is the tank buggered at the same point at the front of the tank or the side mount?
      No its the RHS mount which bolts to the vehicle, not the tank tab - I had gussetts put on that to stop uit happening again. I found this bracket broken last year in October just before I was to go on a trip and I welded it up - didn't have time to get a new bracket at the time and I haven't replaced it since with the new one, cause it seemed to be holding well. I dont think any other damage has occurred, but in a few days, once I clear all the spinifex from underneath the floor pan, I'll have a good look at all that has occurred.

      BTW, I've edited day 6. I forgot to mention, just after packing the car I found the start battery was at 10.9V. Guess how I found that out

      click, click, click....sh!t.
      Last edited by sharkcaver; 15-04-18, 12:11 AM.
      MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

      My Journeys

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      • sharkcaver
        "2000"+ Valued Contributor
        • May 2009
        • 6270
        • Perth

        #18
        Originally posted by m_and_m View Post
        Great and amazing pics.
        In amongst it some misfortune unfortunately. You’ve certainly had your unfair share.

        Heard about spinafex...but wow.
        All up though it looked like a good adventure.

        You should have seen the mass of spinifex caught between the exhaust and the rear of the tank. I never got a pic of that but it was like a wow moment.
        MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

        My Journeys

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        • greybeard
          Member
          • Jan 2008
          • 130
          • WA

          #19
          That little short hairy bloke is still chasing you around.
          Good to hear you're still out there and breaking things.

          Comment

          • nj swb
            Resident
            • Jun 2007
            • 7332
            • Adelaide

            #20
            Originally posted by sharkcaver View Post
            No its the RHS mount which bolts to the vehicle, not the tank tab - I had gussetts put on that to stop uit happening again. I found this bracket broken last year in October just before I was to go on a trip and I welded it up - didn't have time to get a new bracket at the time and I haven't replaced it since with the new one, cause it seemed to be holding well.
            Hi Shane,

            Thanks for posting the thread, yet another reminder of the awesomeness available so far away from too many of us. One day I'll get over there to experience some of it first hand.

            I'm sorry to hear the aux tank is still giving you grief, but I think you (and Steve) are (were) using the Pajero at the limits of its design (not that I think I'm too far behind you).

            I think the fundamental problem is design of the mounting of the tank. It mounts to the Pajero monocoque in four places. Unfortunately, despite the impressive rigidity of the monocoque, it does still flex, ever so slightly, so the four mounting points are unable to remain in a constant plane. So four points on the monocoque, four points on the tank, that can't always be on the same plane - something has to give. Unfortunately, you're at the leading edge of testing the Pajero monocoque, so you're experiencing problems that most others are not - so there is no great incentive for the manufacturer to change their design.

            I feel your pain metaphorically, because I fear it is only a matter of time before I feel your pain literally.
            NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

            Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

            Scorpro Explorer Box

            Comment

            • sharkcaver
              "2000"+ Valued Contributor
              • May 2009
              • 6270
              • Perth

              #21
              Originally posted by nj
              I feel your pain metaphorically, because I fear it is only a matter of time before I feel your pain literally.
              Hopefully you never feel the pain brother....

              To be honest, this was a repaired bracket. I was 2 days away from going bush when I first discovered it....ah crap....

              I rang LRA and they sent me a new bracket pronto. But as you can imagine, that was going to take more than 2 days, so I had to weld repair the existing or I wasn't going bush. The new bracket arrived but I went bush in the repaired one. As it seemed to be holding up (and its a pain to get to with the tank in place, I've let it do its stuff. Unfortunately, it departed when I was quite remote.

              So I have the new bracket in, see how that goes. I may contact LRA and see about getting one made from thicker plate?
              Last edited by sharkcaver; 17-04-18, 12:46 PM.
              MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

              My Journeys

              Comment

              • sharkcaver
                "2000"+ Valued Contributor
                • May 2009
                • 6270
                • Perth

                #22
                But here's a novel concept. Single cable jumper starts.......

                Now having my aux in the rear, I need long jumper leads, 6m minimum in fact.

                Putting the thinking cap on, both batteries are earthed to the chassis, so the negatives are always connected. The positives are only separated by the back feed circuitry of the IDC25 dcdc charger. Theoretically to jump start, I should only need the single cable then.

                So, about to leave 7 miller's hut, I discover the paj starter is 10.0v.

                Jumping from Warren was probably easier, but I had a proof of concept to sort out. So unpack all the rear of mine to get to the aux bat, and add my home made jumper lead.

                At first I was worried, nothing was happening

                And I was about to give it the flick as a failed concept, by using Warrens paj. But I thought I'd give it one more go. Turning ignition on, I now got red lights on the dash, apart from just the yellows I had prior. That was promising.

                So I gave her a crank. Yep it was sluggish, but it cranked this time and low and behold, she fired

                So the proof of concept does work

                I measured start battery originally at 10.0v. The aux at 12.3v (lucky i had put solar panels on the aux the day prior while running the compressor a lot trying to blow spinifex from radiators and nooks and crannies).

                I measured voltage drop on the cable. It showed the same as the Aux, so all good there. Only afterwards, back on the track, I thought about I should have measured current draw on the cable. Oh well, next time - hopefully not!

                So, it took some time (maybe 5 minutes or so) to build enough power into the starter to allow cranking, but allow cranking it did.

                Out of disaster usually comes a ray of sunshine




                MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

                My Journeys

                Comment

                • Jack ANT
                  Member
                  • Mar 2012
                  • 101
                  • Shoalhaven

                  #23
                  Nice bit of problem solving.
                  Because I have both batteries under the bonnet my jumper lead is a single heavy gauge cable about 20cm long and I just jump positive to positive terminals.

                  Comment

                  • sharkcaver
                    "2000"+ Valued Contributor
                    • May 2009
                    • 6270
                    • Perth

                    #24
                    Vid part I now up:

                    MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

                    My Journeys

                    Comment

                    • KiwiNTPajero
                      Valued Member
                      • Aug 2014
                      • 1012
                      • Wellington,New Zealand

                      #25
                      how about you build some "give" into the mounting points so that the tank and paj can move independently.Your trips are always interesting to me not least because your scenery is so different to what we have here
                      2009 NT GLS(NZ) diesel LWB auto
                      BFG AT,Rhino Rack Vortex Bars,Foxwing Eco Awning,BUSHSKINZ I/C, sump guards and steps


                      "do not check the button for faster communication, this will throw a wobbly with some dongles"

                      Comment

                      • greybeard
                        Member
                        • Jan 2008
                        • 130
                        • WA

                        #26
                        Forget the mounting points, just keep using ratchet straps like you're doing now. They seem to last longer than the mounting points.

                        Comment

                        • Pajaru
                          Valued Member
                          • Dec 2013
                          • 411
                          • Perth

                          #27


                          Looks like a great trip. I love that part of WA.
                          Building Now: MY20 GLX Pajero.

                          Retired: MY14 GLX-R Pajero
                          To go where very few have gone before https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/core/...ilies/wink.png

                          Our Travels & Our YouTube Channel

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                          • insect_eater
                            Valued Member
                            • Mar 2015
                            • 447
                            • Canberra

                            #28
                            Thanks for the great photos - I look forward to watching the video. I wonder if you should talk to LRA about a design change - you seem like the perfect test pilot for them. Why was your battery low - just on the way out or for some other reason? What do you think would be the best way to control the spinifex in radiators?
                            NX GLX manual, T13, XD9000, Koni RAID, Ultragauge, ISI carrier, pioneer platform, Lithium auxillary

                            Comment

                            • sharkcaver
                              "2000"+ Valued Contributor
                              • May 2009
                              • 6270
                              • Perth

                              #29
                              Originally posted by insect_eater View Post
                              Thanks for the great photos - I look forward to watching the video. I wonder if you should talk to LRA about a design change - you seem like the perfect test pilot for them. Why was your battery low - just on the way out or for some other reason? What do you think would be the best way to control the spinifex in radiators?
                              In fairness, the bracket was the one that failed on the CSR originally. I weld repaired it, and it seemed to be hanging in there. I hit a few holes a bit hard and that probably broke it again. A new one is in place now. I may investigate with LRA how I can make this stronger....but you know the story, strengthen one area, another failure point crops up.....How you build give into it?? Dunno??

                              Personally I like greybeards solution, just use ratchet straps lol

                              It was the original oem battery, near 3 years old. Personally I'm surprised it didn't fail earlier. It just had no spare capacity and a day with doors open and drawing current was too much for it.....Not that much was drawn from it during the day, the aux ran the compressor and I put panels on that as the compressor draws 26A. It was run quite a bit, hence I pulled the panels out. In hindsight, maybe I needed a few hours of panels on the starter....

                              The best way to control spinny - don't drive in it. Although I fitted a blind (much too late btw), I still dont reckon you can stop this evil stuff. Interestingly, Warren with only IC and sump plates gathered far more underneath than mine. His was mostly straw, mine mostly seed head. Whether that was due to me being first and clearing the seed heads, or having the additional tranny/TC plates, I guess we will never know.

                              Spinifex is insidious stuff. Avoid it at all cost!

                              Anyway, here is part ii, the conclusion:



                              Cheers!
                              Last edited by sharkcaver; 21-04-18, 10:07 PM.
                              MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

                              My Journeys

                              Comment

                              • Pwoffey
                                Valued Member
                                • Jul 2013
                                • 979
                                • Adelaide

                                #30
                                More great footage, thanks Shane. Geez that spinifex looked atrocious. After you put on the radiator shield, to what extent did it lessen the problem?
                                BY13/MY14 Pajero NW GLX Auto, Cooper ST Maxx, factory towbar, Drifta drawers, SmartBar, Airtec snorkel, Koni Raid 90 front and 88 rear shocks with KIngs 34-HD springs front, 35-EHD rear, Brown Davis i/c, sump and transmission bash plates, Piranha diff breathers, Fuel Manager pre-filter, LRA 81L auxiliary fuel tank, Piranha steel battery tray, Sherpa 9500 lb winch, HPD catch can, LockUp Mate, Kaon cargo barrier, Harrop front e-locker, DBA T3 rotors and Xtreme pads, Mark's 4WD reduction gears

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