Oil Filling

[rosahan]

Hi all.
I am changing all of the oils and am having difficulity with my old syringe. Can anyone suggest or recommend a pump or similar device for filling the diffs, gearbox and transfer case? I have seen one on evilbay for $14.99 plus postage. Any thoughts about these?
thanks
Lindsay

[psproule]

Go get a cheapish pump up garden sprayer - about $14.95 at Bunnings et al. Cut the spray wand off and you will be left with a hose about the right size to go in the diff and transmission filler holes. Fill with the required amount of oil, put the hose in the filler, give it a few pumps and come back in 10 mins or so. Works a treat. Make sure not to cross contaminate between the oil types by draining it and the hose between fills.

Also, make sure you fill your manual with Castrol VMX-M (note - it must be "-M"). It is made specifically for MM transmissions. It's the best oil in these manuals and makes quite a bit of difference to shift quality. I have tried other oils but keep coming back to this one and the difference is quite remarkable. My dealer did the last change and used something else and the cold shift feel and syncro baulk was awful. Swapped back to VMX-M and all feels good again. Even the landcruiser crowd recommend this oil.

Another thing to note is the recommendations on rear diff oil. Yours probably still has the Torsen LSD (if it does not have TC it will have the Torsen)? Most of the website lube finders recommend LSD oil but the torsen is not a conventional LSD at all and does not necessarily require LSD oil. Follow the oil grade recommended in the owners handbook and not the lube guide recommendations. With your 25ft Van I'd be running a synthetic in the rear diff and tow it in 4H to spread the drivetrain load. Unfortunately all of the web lube guides draw from the one database and I have seen several errors in it compared to the handbooks.

Pat

[gaz1]

That's a good idea Pat - much better than the hand pump I usually use that requires you to lay under the Pajero pumping! Next time.

I wonder if there is any downside to actually using synthetic LSD oil in the Torsen diff? That's what I have in mine at present (didn't read the book properly) but I guess changing it again isn't all that big an issue.

Gaz

[rosahan]

Thanks Pat, I was hoping you would be the answer(er). I have already bought VMX-M for the gearbox. Am I right in using it also for the transfer case? I have bought Castrol synthetic SAF-XA for the diffs. At $26.95 for a litre container I thought it would be worthwhile putting it in both diffs.
regards
Lindsay

[psproule]

Gaz, a torsen is just a set of gears, and the viscous coupling in the MM ones is a sealed unit, so no problems with synthetic. It's also the reason they don't need friction modifiers (LSD oil). They dont have any clutch packs or cones.

Lindsay - yes, VMX-M in transmission and transfer. Unfortunatly you need about 6 litres in total. I think you will find both diffs will take a bit more than a litre together as well.

Pat

[schnitzel]

Thanks Pat, I was hoping you would be the answer(er). I have already bought VMX-M for the gearbox. Am I right in using it also for the transfer case? I have bought Castrol synthetic SAF-XA for the diffs. At $26.95 for a litre container I thought it would be worthwhile putting it in both diffs.
regards
Lindsay

If you live in a regional area and have a BP depot near there check them out, I sell the safxa for under $20 a litre. If your in Bendigo drop in and tell me your part of this forum and I can sell it to you.

[gaz1]

Thanks Pat - anytime I can avoid getting under, I will, so that's good news.

Gaz

[Herman4x4]

IN the current 4WD Action mag, a guy wrote in and had a pic of how he does it. He puts a hole in the lod, run a hose through it, then he somehow puts like a value stem on the top of the container, attaches his 12v compressor and uses the air pressure to push the oil up the hose and into his diff/gearbox.

[rosahan]

Thanks everyone for your answers. I bought a special oil pump (Orcon) which cost me a bit over $11.00. It did the job very well even with the thick diff oil.
As a matter of interest every time I change the engine oil I miss-judge the amount and end up over filling, to the point where I have to drain a little out by removing draining and then replacing the oil filter. My guess is that I would not have needed more 7 litres even with the filter change. It would be interesting to know how much oil the Mitsubishi dealers are charging for when they do an oil change!!!!!
regards
Lindsay

[psproule]

Huh? The DID should take about 8.5 litres when changing the sump and filter. The filter holds about a litre on it's own. Are you checking it before or after having fired it up to fill the filter and galleries? I prefer to fill my filter with fresh oil before putting it on.

Pat

[rosahan]

Hi Pat.
Definitely checking after starting and ensuring that the filter and galleries are full. I suspect that there is a significant amount of oil not draining out when emptying.
I like your idea of filling the oil filter before installing it. I guess it minimises the time the engine runs without oil pressure on that initial start-up.
thanks again
Lindsay