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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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  #11  
Old 4 Days Ago
Scooby Scooby is offline
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Have you checked the air intake?
For it to start and run a second or 2 and you seam to have spark and fuel leaves air.
Maybe a stray rag or plastic bag.
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Scooby, Scott, Scooter, Whatever.

Pajero 2013 NW VRX DID Auto.
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  #12  
Old 4 Days Ago
stumagoo stumagoo is offline
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A lot of people think the tone ring is located by the woodruff key - I have not looked at every car but I have seen a couple of NL's and the tone ring actually slides past the key and is located by the roll pin on the ones I have dealt with- I have also heard of more than 1 situation where that roll pin has failed...
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1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL blisterside, 285.75.16's on -22 rims 3" suspension lift, stealth winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back

.... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
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  #13  
Old 4 Days Ago
erad erad is offline
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Further to Scooby's post, I had one of my (many) incidents with my NL where the acoustic resonator in the air intake came loose and the choke in that box came up whenever the engine was loaded up. The resonator in question is a small box mounted to the side of the main air intake, just upstream from the throttle valve. Y+The box is simply a small plastic affair with a choke in it. It is designed to damp out vibrations in the air intake. Somehow the choke came loose and as the choke came up, it partially blocked the airflow, restricting airflow to the engine and making it very rich. I had LPG as well, and I took the beast to a LPG man in Sydney and this one really tossed him. The hydrocarbon levels would rise to 2400 ppm, yet it would idle perfectly. Eventually, by accident, he found it after he had fitted a mew LPG converter and done all sorts of tests and checks.

Check the box on your air intake. The choke section is held in by the external clamp. I doubt that this is the problem with your car, but who knows????
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  #14  
Old 1 Day Ago
fjarmabra fjarmabra is offline
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Thanks everyone.

The bit that has me stuck on checking the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge is the fittings that are used for the fuel lines. It's a male thread shaft is sealed by the flared pipe, requiring a tapered sealing susurface to insert a tee. Might have to cut a thread into the end of the banjo bolt on the fuel filter to fit a gauge there and just replace it after.

I now have a timing light and have checked the crank and cams. Unfortunately I can't share video files here but uploaded them to an open Google drive folder for anyone that would be nice enough to have a look and tell me what they think. Link below:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...qHOhxA0AFyP5GS

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...qHOhxA0AFyP5GS

To me it looks okay (5 deg before TDC as per manual) and reasonably consistent keeping in mind that the light might not pick up every pulse. Despite this I will try work my way down to the crank angle sensor to check for any visible damage.

I have taken the entire air inlet apart down to the valves/heads without coming across anything and tried without the air filter fitted. Will definitely check the resonator and choke.

What are everyone's thoughts on restricting the fuel supply with a clamp?

Thanks.

Last edited by fjarmabra; 1 Day Ago at 01:44 PM.
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  #15  
Old 1 Day Ago
stumagoo stumagoo is offline
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rereading your original post and seeing again all you have done I am running out of suggestions.

I am leaning towards faulty injectors - fuel pressure wont ever go silly due to it being a NA engine - however pull the vacuum hose off the manifold end of the regulator and get someone to crank the engine - if there is fuel coming out of it then you have a stuffed regulator

That alone would not suggest to me that you will end up with fuel in your oil.... that sounds to me like a faulty injector - early symptoms would have been poor power (engine flooding) and the O2 would have potentially failed as well... all you can do there is a stethoscope or large screwdriver and listen to each injector and make sure they are each ticking as you turn the engine over - or pull them all out and get them profesionally checked and cleaned (which is not a bad idea on its own)
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1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL blisterside, 285.75.16's on -22 rims 3" suspension lift, stealth winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back

.... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
.
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  #16  
Old 17 Hours Ago
fjarmabra fjarmabra is offline
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Okay, manned up, cut my fuel line and inserted a tee with a pressure gauge on my supply line next to the injector manifold.

When cranking I get 48 psi (+-2 psi), with the vacuum line disconnected I get 50 psi (+-2 psi) and when pulling a "vacuum" with a syringe on the fuel pressure regular I can get it down to 42 psi. As far as I can work out that checks out. It really tries to start and if I unplug the injector wiring loom connection, it consistently starts for 2 seconds and then dies (when it runs out of fuel). I also partially opened the throttle using the lever on the dash and plugged the throttle position sensor into my spare (reading closed) to reduce the fuel being injected, which seems to help a little bit.

Also took off the intake damper, but couldn't find any moving components.

I bought an injector pressure testing kit since it's looking like injector or injector pulse issue to me. Has anyone used one of these before? I got a kit including a pressure gauge, a few check valves and a bunch of fittings (reducers) without any instructions.

Hoping to have a look at my crank angle sensor tomorrow. I've been trying to come up with a way of doing it without disturbing the timing and crank bolt given my past experience and care taken last time,

Has anyone replaced or rebuilt injectors? Is there an option that will cost me less than what I paid for the car?
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  #17  
Old 15 Hours Ago
erad erad is offline
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The fuel pressures you have measured are in the right ballpark. No gauge is exactly accurate, so small variations can be expected. As long as the pressures remain constant, I think you have no problems with the fuel. The leakage into the sump is probably unburnt fuel because you had no spark.

The immobiliser isolates the fuel system. i am not sure if it isolates the fuel pump or the injectors. If it cuts the fuel pump, this could account for the short running time before it dies. Connect a test lamp to the fuel pump supply and see if it stays lit after the engine dies. If it does, at least the pump is getting power and the isolation function comes via the injectors. If the fuel pump supply is cut after a few seconds, try to run a power source directly to the pump. if the engine keeps running, at least you are starting to know where to look, and you know that the injectors are not being isolated by the immobiliser.

An old fashioned timing light will tell you if you have spark. if that goes out as the engine dies, that tells you where to start looking as well. You don't have to be looking for the timing mark at this stage - only looking to see if the spark keeps going. If it does, then you look to see when it is actually firing. Immobilisers do not cut the spark - they isolate the fuel system, so if you are getting a spark, the only thing left to do is to check WHEN it is sparking - not easy if you are by yourself.
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