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  • Overthehill
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2018
    • 2
    • Hobart

    Rough idle when stationary

    Thank you Dave for helping me to get started.
    I have a stock standard NT 2011 3.2 auto, regularly serviced by Mitsubishi until the last one by RACT. It has done approx. 155000ks, some towing a 2.4 tn caravan.
    About the 70000ks mark I noticed, eg, stop at lights, foot on brake and in drive the car would occasionally vibrate, as if firing on 3 cylinders. Cutting a long story short, the Hobart Mitsubishi service say there is a problem but do not know where it is, engine or even the gearbox.
    Symptoms which are regular now.
    Stop the car, leave in gear and it shudders/vibrates, let it roll forward say over 2ks per hr. and it stops or when stationary I put it in neutral to stop the problem.
    Moving the gear lever to manual and even selecting 2nd, or have the aircon on to increase revs. still vibrates. In park no vibrations, in reverse, once or twice over the last 3/4 years.
    The RACT service chap slightly jacked up the engine whilst running, still vibrated. He then put the jack under the gearbox and he said it stopped and suggested check the gearbox mounts. I have and they seem to be ok. Has any one any ideas ????
  • craka
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 2057
    • Newcastle (Newie)

    #2
    Mounts and dynamic dampners on the cross member that runs under the auto been checked?
    NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

    Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

    Comment

    • erad
      Valued Member
      • Mar 2015
      • 5067
      • Cooma NSW

      #3
      How long since the transmission fluid was changed? And what was used to replace the fluid?

      Reason I ask, I had Range Rover with the Chrysler Torqueflight transmission. Horrible 3 speed arrangement. Specified fluid was Dexron II. One change, I couldn't get any Dexron II - I could only get DexronIII. Later fluid spec - it must be higher spec and therefore better for me.... WRONG!

      The transmission changes were far better - crisper and more direct. It felt great until I put the beast into reverse when it was cold. It was a case of Grab/Slip/Grab/Slip/Grab/Slip all the way out my driveway. Run it for 10 minutes and all was good. In drive it was good. I phoned Mobil and asked them what was happening. They told me that Dexron III had different frictional properties than Dexron II. It sounds to me as if someone has used the wrong fluid in your vehicle.

      Comment

      • geopaj
        Valued Member
        • Jul 2007
        • 2756
        • Adelaide

        #4
        It’s not common but is also not totally uncommon either.

        I would be suspecting either engine/gearbox mounts and/or suction control valve (SCV).

        I would consult with a local diesel specialist - rather than Mitsubishi
        Silver NT VRX Di-D

        ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

        My Build Thread - HERE

        Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

        Comment

        • spot01
          Valued Member
          • Apr 2011
          • 4717
          • Adelaide

          #5
          I've had 5 of the Gen 4 cars - a couple had rougher idle (in gear) than the others. I asked them to check the idle speed - they upped it slightly & that fixed one car. Another car was better after a couple of doses of injector cleaner. Note none of the cars were above 30,000km.

          Simple things first:

          Have you tried some injector cleaner?

          Has the inlet manifold been checked for coking?

          Did they check the idle speed is as per spec?
          - what is the idle speed, warm, in N, stationary?
          - what is the idle speed, warm, in D, stationary?
          (photos of tacho showing speed will do)

          Does it do it cold?
          Does it still do it if you very slightly increase the revs, warm, in N, stationary? (no A/C, as whilst this increases revs, it also put more load on the engine).
          Pajero NX MY21 GLS

          Comment

          • Overthehill
            Junior Member
            • Apr 2018
            • 2
            • Hobart

            #6
            Rough idle when stationary

            Thanks guys for quick response and ideas.
            It prob started to happen at about 55000k so I gather it had the original oil since new.
            Injector cleaning has been done several times, no change.
            Mounts and dynamic dampeners I will check very soon.
            When stationary I have turned the air con on, revs increase, ever so slightly but still no better.
            Left foot on brake and increase revs with accelerator, vibration gets rougher, have not gone past approx 850revs.
            Idle is around 650revs
            There is generally no changes if hot or cold,except first thing occasionally on a cold Hobart morning and then it feels running on 2 cylinders.
            There is a chap who specialises in gear boxes and as suggested might go and see if he can check/service it.
            First will check mounts. Cheers
            Overthehill

            Comment

            • Little Devil
              Member
              • Feb 2016
              • 76
              • Valley View, South Australia

              #7
              I'd be real worried if my vehicle still had the original oil in it at 55,000km
              My19 ZL Outlander Diesel Auto. Ultra Gauge MX, Uniden CB, 270 Batwing Awning, Catch Can

              WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people.

              Comment

              • Quietguy
                Valued Member
                • Jun 2011
                • 537
                • Forster, NSW

                #8
                Originally posted by Overthehill View Post
                Thank you Dave for helping me to get started.
                I have a stock standard NT 2011 3.2 auto, regularly serviced by Mitsubishi until the last one by RACT. It has done approx. 155000ks, some towing a 2.4 tn caravan.
                About the 70000ks mark I noticed, eg, stop at lights, foot on brake and in drive the car would occasionally vibrate, as if firing on 3 cylinders. Cutting a long story short, the Hobart Mitsubishi service say there is a problem but do not know where it is, engine or even the gearbox.
                Symptoms which are regular now.
                Stop the car, leave in gear and it shudders/vibrates, let it roll forward say over 2ks per hr. and it stops or when stationary I put it in neutral to stop the problem.
                Moving the gear lever to manual and even selecting 2nd, or have the aircon on to increase revs. still vibrates. In park no vibrations, in reverse, once or twice over the last 3/4 years.
                The RACT service chap slightly jacked up the engine whilst running, still vibrated. He then put the jack under the gearbox and he said it stopped and suggested check the gearbox mounts. I have and they seem to be ok. Has any one any ideas ????
                Sorry, no ideas but my NW does the same thing - asked the dealer to fix it on each of three last services, and each time they claimed it was done, but the damn thing still often idles like a mack truck. Also asked them to adjust the hand brake,but it doesn't hold the truck when in gear and idling.

                David

                Comment

                • erad
                  Valued Member
                  • Mar 2015
                  • 5067
                  • Cooma NSW

                  #9
                  Overthehill wrote "Left foot on brake and increase revs with accelerator, vibration gets rougher, have not gone past approx 850revs..

                  This seems to me as if the torque converter is grabbing - trying to drive the car but doesn't have enough power to sustain the drive at that speed (Fair enough). It is a case of grip/slip. Give it a bit more accelerator and it gets worse. Change the transmission fluid.

                  Comment

                  • MrIsuzu1
                    Junior Member
                    • Sep 2012
                    • 29
                    • Cairns

                    #10
                    Mate had the same thing with his NT 3.2 auto. Turned out to be the engine mounts.
                    2010 NT GLX, RD lock, Smartbar, Warn winch, Uniden UHF, Piranha dual battery, Redarc Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz protection

                    Comment

                    • tomwithannl
                      Valued Member
                      • Jan 2010
                      • 705
                      • Maria Coast Tasmania.

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Little Devil View Post
                      I'd be real worried if my vehicle still had the original oil in it at 55,000km
                      I am sure "overthehill" is referring to the auto trans fluid.

                      Tom
                      1998 NL GLS 3.5 Auto. Bocar alloy bar with 13000lb I-Max winch & engine watchdog.
                      1953 Morris Minor ute
                      1990 Nissan Scargo van (The SNAIL)
                      2005 Mercedes ML350 Special Edition 4Matic

                      Comment

                      • Paj11
                        Member
                        • Jun 2017
                        • 209
                        • Sydney

                        #12
                        I went through this last year, engine mounts replaced, now a different car.
                        2011 30th Anniversary NT, TME Tuned, 2 inch Billies/Dobs lift HD rear/MD front. Arb Deluxe Bar, Mitsi Tow bar, LRA Aux tank, Clearview Mirrors, Tekonsha Electric Brake Controller, iDrive, Manta 3 inch Turbo back Exhaust, Provent Catch Can, Pirelli Scorpion AT Plus 265/70/17 all corners plus spare, 9 inch iluminators, 7 inch Stedi reverse flood light, Rhino Rack, Kings Side Awning.

                        Comment

                        • Doowrag
                          Senior Member
                          • Jun 2008
                          • 264
                          • Gympie Qld

                          #13
                          Mine has also started vibrating pretty bad at idle. In Park, Drive, Reverse doesn't seem to matter. May be coincidence but it happened on the day i got my lift kit installed a couple months ago. As soon as i drove it I noticed it. The next day i ran it out of diesel but that's another story

                          I now run Fuel Doctor regularly, and have since had the Intake Manifold Cleaned and Suction Control Valve Replaced with no improvement. When the revs are slightly above idle it goes away. I've been to a Diesel expert and my local mechanic with no definite solution. Gearbox was serviced (properly) by an an expert around two years ago.

                          I'm told the engine mounts are fluid and there is no way to check if they are stuffed without pulling them out... and obviously if you pull them out you might as well replace them...

                          Any other ideas before i go the Engine Mount Path? it drives me INSANE...
                          2011 NT GLX - Hankooks, 2in Kings/Oztec, SmartBra, XTM Spotties, Warn XD9000, UHF, AutoMate, Ultraguage, Flat Rack, Awning, RedArc Dual Battery System... LOOKING TO BUY FACTORY SIDE STEPS...

                          Comment

                          • nj swb
                            Resident
                            • Jun 2007
                            • 7333
                            • Adelaide

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Doowrag View Post
                            I'm told the engine mounts are fluid and there is no way to check if they are stuffed without pulling them out... and obviously if you pull them out you might as well replace them...
                            I bought a wrecked NW for my Shorty project, and the engine mounts are fairly conventional metal and rubber. One was broken, and the other damaged, so I bought two replacements - through Bursons, but otherwise identical in appearance / construction to the mounts that came in the NW.
                            NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                            Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                            Scorpro Explorer Box

                            Comment

                            • Doowrag
                              Senior Member
                              • Jun 2008
                              • 264
                              • Gympie Qld

                              #15
                              Found This

                              Attached Files
                              2011 NT GLX - Hankooks, 2in Kings/Oztec, SmartBra, XTM Spotties, Warn XD9000, UHF, AutoMate, Ultraguage, Flat Rack, Awning, RedArc Dual Battery System... LOOKING TO BUY FACTORY SIDE STEPS...

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