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Front diff oil seal on driver side/freewheel clutch side

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  • kiwi1973
    Valued Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 1178
    • New Zealand

    Front diff oil seal on driver side/freewheel clutch side

    I couldn't find any posts showing how to replace the right side front diff oil seal. This oil seal is outside the freewheel clutch assembly, so not as straightforward as replacing the passenger side oil seal.

    What I'd like to know is if anyone has replaced this oil seal with the diff in situ, or whether the diff has to be removed from the vehicle? Looks to me like the inner shaft would need to be removed and the tube it runs in.
    2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.
  • insect_eater
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2015
    • 447
    • Canberra

    #2
    Hi Aaron, I have no direct experience of such work but I'm hoping these pages from the manual help, or at least you can navigate to to the information you need.

    My inexperienced perception is that to replace the seal the drive shaft and the inner shaft may need to be removed. Apologies in advance if this is a bum steer, or this is information you already have - just trying to help.




    NX GLX manual, T13, XD9000, Koni RAID, Ultragauge, ISI carrier, pioneer platform, Lithium auxillary

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    • pharb
      Valued Member
      • Jul 2007
      • 1038
      • Tyers,Vic

      #3
      S

      Did this job earlier this year (or late last year, alziemhers setting in ) on an MK Triton, which would be very similar but without the dog clutch for the Super Select disconnecting axle.

      Removed RHS drive shaft (ie hub to axle housing).
      Should be able to use a slide hammer to pull RHS inner axle shaft out of housing. I struggled, see below,for issues. Make sure the bolts that sit in the axle flange that bolt up the CV joint flange stay in the flange, or go back in before reassembly because you can't get them in once shaft is back in housing.
      Block up diff centre then un bolt RHS extension housing from diff.

      I did this to replace the bearing in the outer end of extension housing, but found extension housing full of oil so had to replace seal at inne rend as well.

      Turned into a nightmare of a job due to hard to source parts (struggled to find aftermarket or genuine due to to old), and the spring clip on the inner end of the axle shaft had broken so it wouldn't collapse when using sllide hammer to pull shaft out. Had to pull cover of diff and manipulate spring clip with screwdriver to centralise then could pull with slide hammer.

      Replacement spring clips (genuine) seemed to be wrong size and damaged seal upon reassembly, only noticed due to bits of seal ending up in diff centre found when went to put cover back on.

      Ended up forcing a slightly smaller clip from an NA Pajero axle I just happened to have lying around.

      Was a bugger of a job, but mainly due to being a 20 year old car.
      PCOV Member 1107.
      Daily driver NX GLX
      Semi retired NL GLS 3.5 (no airbags) in almost prestine condition to replace NJ.
      Virtually fully retired NJ 2.8TD
      Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB.

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      • kiwi1973
        Valued Member
        • Sep 2012
        • 1178
        • New Zealand

        #4
        Thanks for the replies.

        The only part I'm still unclear on is whether unbolting the RHS diff mount bracket and unbolting the tube for the inner drive shaft at the freewheel clutch end (all this assuming diff supported and inner shaft removed) would allow all of that to come out as one piece. Then I should have access to the oil seal sitting in the freewheel clutch. I had assumed the diff would need to be lowered, but rethinking this in light of the above replies, it may not have to be.

        I have purchased the oil seal, but for now will keep an eye on how much oil I'm losing, which doesn't seem to be much. It's a job I'd much rather leave until I'm back home if it can wait that long, though it may not. Next time I remove the bash plate for an 'on the road' inspection I'll assess it again.
        2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

        Comment

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