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  • craka
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 2057
    • Newcastle (Newie)

    #16
    ok thanks, guys.

    I wonder if I just didn't notice the colour change initially on the rear passenger caliper.

    Will see how I go with the front when I get back to it.
    NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

    Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

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    • aussieintas
      Valued Member
      • Feb 2013
      • 2190
      • Sorell, Tasmania

      #17
      The first rear takes longer to flush through to clear new fluid bud. Then as you do the others it takes less and less dueto distance and the fact you have pushed out all the old fluid from the master cylinder.
      2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

      Previously
      88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
      92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
      92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
      99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
      95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
      08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

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      • talrusan
        Member
        • Oct 2019
        • 98
        • Jordan

        #18
        Guys when i have to change the brakes fluid, i have 2015 already done a 95K km. I believe it's never changed before.

        Sent from my BLA-L29 using Tapatalk

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        • DibbyDibbyDJ
          Valued Member
          • Sep 2019
          • 538
          • Victoria

          #19
          Every two years or 30000kms
          2024 Outlander

          Diamond Technician at Main Dealer

          mitsubishi-forums

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          • Jasonmc73
            Valued Member
            • Jun 2019
            • 2692
            • Brisbane

            #20
            Originally posted by talrusan View Post
            Guys when i have to change the brakes fluid, i have 2015 already done a 95K km. I believe it's never changed before.

            Sent from my BLA-L29 using Tapatalk
            Don't stress.

            Brake fluid is hygroscopic, attracts moisture, rusts out system etc, can boil create gas, gases can be compressed so you got no brakes etc + the dust air dirt that can accumulate. Premature brake component failure is generally the outcome.

            Depending on the humidity in Jordon, depends how big a deal it is,

            For example, an environment with low air moisture it will be lot less of a bother than an environment with high air mositure levels, like the tropics.

            Also in my opinion only, whenever you crack a bleeder & pump the pedal, try not to pump piston all the way to end of cylinder/ foot pedal to floor. Bad idea, as you are pushing the piston/ seals where they don't normally run & can collect muddy dirt stuff & drag it up & down the cylinder.
            Few hours/ weeks later you suddenly have a dodgy master cylinder

            I'm taking my wives car 2.5 years old 35000k's to mechanic over christmas $120 to flush. It has an electric handbrake, sensors everywhere.

            I do all my own servicing & for $120 i'll let someone else worry about throwing an error code or whatever.
            Only be the 2nd time in 20 years i've paid someone, can't be bothered to learn on this occasion, maybe next time, maybe its straight forward, but maybe it is not on this system?? lol
            Last edited by Jasonmc73; 15-12-19, 11:51 AM.
            Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

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            • talrusan
              Member
              • Oct 2019
              • 98
              • Jordan

              #21
              Originally posted by Jasonmc73 View Post
              Don't stress.

              Brake fluid is hygroscopic, attracts moisture, rusts out system etc, can boil create gas, gases can be compressed so you got no brakes etc + the dust air dirt that can accumulate. Premature brake component failure is generally the outcome.

              Depending on the humidity in Jordon, depends how big a deal it is,

              For example, an environment with low air moisture it will be lot less of a bother than an environment with high air mositure levels, like the tropics.

              Also in my opinion only, whenever you crack a bleeder & pump the pedal, try not to pump piston all the way to end of cylinder/ foot pedal to floor. Bad idea, as you are pushing the piston/ seals where they don't normally run & can collect muddy dirt stuff & drag it up & down the cylinder.
              Few hours/ weeks later you suddenly have a dodgy master cylinder

              I'm taking my wives car 2.5 years old 35000k's to mechanic over christmas $120 to flush. It has an electric handbrake, sensors everywhere.

              I do all my own servicing & for $120 i'll let someone else worry about throwing an error code or whatever.
              Only be the 2nd time in 20 years i've paid someone, can't be bothered to learn on this occasion, maybe next time, maybe its straight forward, but maybe it is not on this system?? lol
              Thank you very much Jasonmc73 for detailed reply. Yes im living in low humidity place in Jordan. No near waterbodies and about 900 meters above sea level. Thank you for your advise. I'm thinking of flush it this weekend. Usually people here don't their car service them selves. Maybe they lazy or the service cost is low comparing to Australia.

              Sent from my BLA-L29 using Tapatalk

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