Triton MR Driving lights

[Ozgeo]

Hi I have wired driving lights to the vehicle, put in a 40A relay and an overide switch. The problem I have not been able to find a wire with 12V when I switch the high beams on. Neither around the steering column or the fuse box. I have tried finding the high beam wire at the headlight but after several hours I have not been able to get access the the rear of the headlights (L or R) because of all the gear nearby. I have also tried removing the headlight assembly but this has proved been to no avail, with the bolts removed the assembly still will not budge.

Very frustrated. Anyone have an idea how I can find this wire, really appreciate some kind help.

Meant ot Post this in the main Triton channel (mods please move)

[Two Emms]

Sorry Ozgeo , I know nothing about tritons but some help might be better than nothing.

Put your headlights on. Motor off. Have another person sit in the drivers seat and flick the lights from low beam to high beam while you listen in the engine bay for a relay clicking. If you can locate the relay that feeds the high beam there should be a 12 v supply there you can tap into.I imagine it will be in one of the fuse boxes under the bonnet.......somewhere.

Its a bit bush mechanic, but it may help.

Any triton drivers, reading this, feel free to point out a better way

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Clipped onto the left headlamp lower part is the connector with 8 or 10 wires in it. One of those is your headlamp feed.


Most accessory kits come with a bulb adaptor, that plugs in to the harness to the bulb. Unless you have HID of course, which wont work.

[shawty950]

Other thing you can do, as I have, is go to main fuse box near battery, find high beam fuse and add this in as the trigger to the relay https://www.autoelec.com.au/add-a-ci...-tap-piggy-bac

[Kingbrown]

Clipped onto the left headlamp lower part is the connector with 8 or 10 wires in it. One of those is your headlamp feed.


Most accessory kits come with a bulb adaptor, that plugs in to the harness to the bulb. Unless you have HID of course, which wont work.

DDDJ,

Do you know if Mitsubishi on this model provides a 2 pin socket above the drivers right foot like the MN Triton and PB Challenger have ?

On my Challenger the socket has a high beam feed as well as a wire that returns to the engine bay for use with a spot light relay.

Relatively simple job to hook up a spotlight switch to that socket (apart from body contortions and visit to a physio afterwards).

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

DDDJ,

Do you know if Mitsubishi on this model provides a 2 pin socket above the drivers right foot like the MN Triton and PB Challenger have ?

On my Challenger the socket has a high beam feed as well as a wire that returns to the engine bay for use with a spot light relay.

Relatively simple job to hook up a spotlight switch to that socket (apart from body contortions and visit to a physio afterwards).

Not aware of one above drivers right foot on MN or PB



There is a 4 pin plug up above front passengers feet on left side that goes to battery. if you have factory towbar one of the wires gets used. This is on all models except asx and outlander where is is on the drivers side

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

other thing you can do, as i have, is go to main fuse box near battery, find high beam fuse and add this in as the trigger to the relay https://www.autoelec.com.au/add-a-ci...-tap-piggy-bac

please nobody use these.



They are terrible and a huge cause of breakdowns as they fall out or connectors come loose.



Mitsubishi fuses always cover more circuits than the diagrams say, and i have seen numerous non starts caused by these

[nj swb]

please nobody use these.



They are terrible and a huge cause of breakdowns as they fall out or connectors come loose.



Mitsubishi fuses always cover more circuits than the diagrams say, and i have seen numerous non starts caused by these

Is it failure of the piggy back, or failure of the way it's installed?

If it's installed the wrong way, both fuses end up in series i.e. the accessories load is drawn through the original fuse, in addition to all the factory loads. In this scenario, a fault on the accessories circuit can blow the factory fuse rather than the secondary fuse, taking out both the factory circuit and the accessory.

I've had one in my NT for years, but (from memory) there was only one spot I could install it in the correct orientation. Every other possible spot the outgoing accessory wire fouled on something else.

I'm guessing a lot of these are installed wrong.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

They fall out. The little legs shake loose. Just terrible.

[OldEmmGee]

I have used these before with success (although there is no doubt splicing (solder/crimp) into wiring is a better long-term or permanent solution).

I find if the wiring near the fuse is secured correctly, they provide a reliable connection. If there is any stress (wiring not secured allowing for movement) then they are very likely to work themselves out.

I would not discard out of hand.

[shawty950]

please nobody use these.



They are terrible and a huge cause of breakdowns as they fall out or connectors come loose.



Mitsubishi fuses always cover more circuits than the diagrams say, and i have seen numerous non starts caused by these

While I dont discount DibbyDibbys experience with some types of these add a circuits,
1. They are 2 separate fuses/feeds off the live side, and if used as just a trigger will be fine.
2. I have had these type as both low amp trigger as well as running dash cams and reverse camera head units for 150k in the paj, and 100+k in the triton, doing madigan line, sandover hwy and other rough ish type roads and never had one fail.
Some of the ebay ones that only have a tail coming off the primary fuse may be another issue, but the ones referenced have never given me an issue.
Ymmv.