MY2012 MANUAL DiD NW with DPF symptoms?

[pajflareo]

This is how I intend to proceed at this point.

I have a friend who works for NRMA who I can lean on a bit, although I will have to cop some crap about buying a bit of a lemon. He has the appropriate scan tools so I intend to run the fuel pressure test as and where the car current is. I assume this will show a Injector supply pipe leak (or any other potential leak of diesel into the oil)?

We will the swap the injector pipes out for new ones, correctly torqued with the appropriate tool. This doesn't look to be too difficult a job? Especially compared to mucking around on the old NM DiD fuel pump which I did a bit.

Run the test again and hope that the test will show the issue is resolved. Obviously if resolved buy a lottery ticket and change oil/filter immediately.

Also can any one confirm the 4 injector supply pipes were the same through all CRD modles ie part no's 1428A113-1428A116 ?

[spot01]

This is how I intend to proceed at this point.

I have a friend who works for NRMA who I can lean on a bit, although I will have to cop some crap about buying a bit of a lemon. He has the appropriate scan tools so I intend to run the fuel pressure test as and where the car current is. I assume this will show a Injector supply pipe leak (or any other potential leak of diesel into the oil)?

We will the swap the injector pipes out for new ones, correctly torqued with the appropriate tool. This doesn't look to be too difficult a job? Especially compared to mucking around on the old NM DiD fuel pump which I did a bit.

Run the test again and hope that the test will show the issue is resolved. Obviously if resolved buy a lottery ticket and change oil/filter immediately.

I'd also adjust the valves whilst it is in bits so you know they are OK & then don't have to remove the pipes again for some time. Note engine must be stone cold (best left overnight to cool before doing valves) There are threads on how to do this plus the online workshop manual. You will need a seal kit when doing either or both jobs. I'd buy genuine.

[pajflareo]

You will need a seal kit when doing either or both jobs. I'd buy genuine.

Forgive my ignorance, but from looking at the engine and the Workshop manual I assumed you could do the injector pipes without removing the rocker cover?

[spot01]

Forgive my ignorance, but from looking at the engine and the Workshop manual I assumed you could do the injector pipes without removing the rocker cover?

Sorry, you may be correct - the usual maintenance job of removing the pipes & adjusting the valves does need the kit, but perhaps not needed if you don't do the valves. But I wonder how fuel from leaking pipes can get into the sump if they are not inside the engine? Perhaps someone who has done this job themselves can confirm?

[twisted32]

Sorry, you may be correct - the usual maintenance job of removing the pipes & adjusting the valves does need the kit, but perhaps not needed if you don't do the valves. But I wonder how fuel from leaking pipes can get into the sump if they are not inside the engine? Perhaps someone who has done this job themselves can confirm?

The fuel injector to injector connection is within the rocker cover. It is however a flared metal to metal fitting (no replaceableseal). The seals on the rocker cover seal oil from leaking from around the injector and the injector line as they pass through the rocker cover.

[geopaj]

The fuel injector to injector connection is within the rocker cover. It is however a flared metal to metal fitting (no replaceableseal). The seals on the rocker cover seal oil from leaking from around the injector and the injector line as they pass through the rocker cover.

Twisted is correct. It’s a job that we have both done several times and both love to hate!

To add to the confusion, while the fuel injector to injector connection is within the rocker cover, the line can be removed with the rocker cover in place (in face, the rocker cover can’t be removed with the lines in place).

The injector line has a kind of long nut. One end is a standard hex nut, the middle outside is machined to seal against the rocker cover grommet, and the lower end seals the injector line to the injector via a flare type fitting.

If the injector line to the injector leaks, it definitely fills the sump with diesel.

[pajflareo]

Small update.

I'm waiting for the parts.

MMA wanted about $800 for the 4 injector pipes. They would have to come up from Melbourne but would be here next week.

Amayama was just under $300 delivered. Bad news is 2 weeks ex-japan.

I've decided to save myself $500 and wait it out.

In the mean time will organise for a MUT-3 fuel pressure test.

[pajflareo]

Another larger update.

Parts arrived in good order this week after some time wasted by local couriers - I had some time today to muck around on the paj.

Ran the fuel line pressure test on a Scantool a couple of times. Pressures tested normal. Injectors tested okay aswell. Also visibly during the tests I could not see any leaks.

However what I could see was a small amount of diesel sitting in the recess where injector pipe 1 mounts in the engine cover. All the dust in this area had also been washed out by the diesel. So I felt encouraged I was on the right track.

Promptly pulled off the necessary stuff to get at the pipes ie EGR, intake butterfly, fuel lines etc

When it came to taking off the fuel pipes I noticed they were over torqued to the extreme, in fact I have noticed everything in this car has been extremely over torqued by the previous owner/mechanic. Even the engine cover required a longer 1/2 driver to break loose (in my previous paj I could take the cover off one handed with a screw driver).

Anyway, injector pipe one at the engine side (where I could see diesel) was so tight it required my full body weight pulling on a ring spanner to get it loose. Injector pipe 2 at the common rail required about 30 mins of WD40 and elbow grease to break loose. 3 and 4 were okay at both ends. I also notice there was some diesel around the common rail side fitting for pipe 2 and it seems the bloke who took this off last time preferred to crank it down hard to stop the leaks, as opposed to replacing the part.

It is really concerning me, everything I have touched on this car has been absolutely cranked down. Even the fuel filter took all I had to bust free and the sensor in the bottom felt like it was gonna crack in half before I got it out. I'm worried about what else has been over torqued and whether the seats for this pipes could be cooked.

Anyway, got all the injector pipes off and have put the new ones on. Can't torque them up properly because the crows foot socket set I got skipped 17, I should have checked but I didn't so I'll be taking this set back tomorrow at 7am to find another that includes a 17mm size - which may be difficult as stock is low locally.

I'll torque them up tomorrow put it all back together, run the test again, change oil and filter, keep an eye on it and keep this thread going and I'll post some pics in case anyone stumbles upon this thread and needs some encouragement - it is a fairly easy albeit time consuming job.

Thanks everyone for their help thus far!

[pajflareo]

Just thought I'd finally update this thread.

Ultimately replacing the lines did the trick.

Interestingly no variation in the fuel line pressure test before and after the lines replacement, however the oil level has remained stable since that time and I have had zero issues since then (10,000km).

Thanks to everyone that helped out. In the end got it done for the price of the lines and a crowsfoot spanner/driver set and did it myself in the street, with the knowledge that it is all torqued up properly now.