OEM Nudge Bar fitting

[RMX]

Got it, Thanks Richard.

[ScottB]

OK, just bought a MN Triton nudge bar (for $80.00, good deal I thought) off eBay and need to install. I have a copy of install instructions for the Challenger bar so I figure it is not any different. Anyone have suggestions on what to use to cut the lower bumper with? I seem not to have a pneumatic hacksaw laying round, but still want a nice clean cut.

ScottB

[RMX]

If you don't have an air saw, I've previously used a good/sharp pair of tin snips on a vehicle to trim the rear bar for an exhaust and they worked very well also.


I installed mine on Friday night along with a HID kit, I used an air saw for the lower section of the front bar and was pleased with the results.

Here's a pic of the Challenger with the nudge bar and HID low beams and LED parkers.

[Ovets]

When I did mine, I just used an angle grinder with a very fine cutting wheel.

You can get these wheels at Bunnings for a few dollars and they're only 1-2mm thick so you can do some relatively fine cuts with them.

[Ovets]

Hey RMX I meant to ask, how easy were the HIDs to fit and how much of a difference do they make?

[RMX]

Hey RMX I meant to ask, how easy were the HIDs to fit and how much of a difference do they make?

They were very easy to fit, All done in about an hour (including beers).

They plug into the factory harness, All I needed to do was connect the plugs, mount the ballasts and put the globe in and cable tie/tidy up the wiring.
It's a bit of a shame the Challenger doesn't run a cap behind the light as I'm going to have to make a waterproof housing for the factory plug as the HID harness just has pins that plug in to the factory lobe socket but don't seal it. Currently it's wrapped in electrical tape.

I was very impressed with the light output and they are a significant improvement compared the the factory Halogens. They definitely throw more light and the projector design controls the light very well, no real "hot spots". The HID's seem to have more distance (without blinding other drivers) with street signs much easier to read and also provide more light on either side, lighting the footpath/nature strip much better than the factory globes did.

The kit I installed was a 35w 6000k H11 for the low beam, I've run 35w HID's for low beams in previous vehicles and found them to be a good upgrade without attracting "unwanted attention". I believe 55w is too bright for low beam.

I'll be installing a 55w kit in the high beam and in the Hella Rallye 4000's i'm putting on, But I need to make a bracket to support the 2 x Ballasts on each side. (4000s with have the ballast internally). This will have to wait til after the easter trip I think.

The real test will be how they perform out of suburbia over Easter.

[jimsiron]

You do know it is illegal to retro fit HID's to a vehicle's headlights if it is not a standard fit. The XLS come equipped with them though.
regards
Jimsiron

[RMX]

You do know it is illegal to retro fit HID's to a vehicle's headlights if it is not a standard fit. The XLS come equipped with them though.
regards
Jimsiron

Incorrect.

It is not illegal to retro-fit HID headlights.

I'll paraphrase ADR 13/00: "Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles" and ADR 45/01 "Lighting and Light Signalling Devices not Covered by ECE Regulations" because it's after midnight and I'm not trawling through them.

A light with luminous flux that exceeds 2,000 lumen requires a form of headlamp cleaning device (EG: Headlamp washer, It cannot block light output by greater than 5% or some such bullshit) and a form for automatic levelling device.

Washer is a very simple fix, I'd suggest Hilux windscreen washers, tap into the standard washer tank with a separate washer motor and you're sorted.

Automatic levelling is also very simple. Alot of guys here already run airbags on the rear, All that is required is a hard wired compressor (most guys have this aswell, or a compressor than can be), a small air tank (Extremely handy!) and a self levelling kit from a company like Accuair.

The only aspect of the HID kit I have installed that could be deemed illegal is the kelvin temperature.

ADR 78/00 "Gas Discharge Light Sources" states the colour is to be white or yellow and contains some bullshit calorimetric formula that equates the kelvin temperature must be between 3500k and roughly 5000k.
It also states the housing must also create a sharp cut-off of light, meaning a projector housing to ensure there is no lighting spilling from a reflector designed for a halogen bulb.



I could convert my current Challenger to be HID legal, running self-levelling rear airbags and engineered (for the HID and the rear bags) for around the $2,000 mark, probably less.

I'd rather spend $2,000 in upgrading a manual Challenger, Rather than end up in the slushbox only XLS with the bank account some $8-10,000 better off.

[Challenged2010]

Hey! Nothing wrong with the autos! They're far from "slushboxes"

[Stan53]

Good News:
My salesman sent me a copy of the installation instructions. Looks simple and it states 30min. fit time so I am going to do it myself. Ordered the bar today. I dont know why Service quoted around 2.5 hours to fit.

I don't suppose you still have a copy of those instructions? I picked mine up this morning. I can probably work it all out. But why reinvent the wheel.
My email address is [email protected]
Any one else who can help?
Thanks in advance.
Stan

[RMX]

I don't suppose you still have a copy of those instructions? I picked mine up this morning. I can probably work it all out. But why reinvent the wheel.
My email address is [email protected]
Any one else who can help?
Thanks in advance.
Stan

Done.

[j3st3r]

Most of the bars that you are fitting seem to be aluminium. I noticed a few triton bars on ebay that are stainless steel. Which would be a better bar the stainless or the alloy. I was thinking that the stainless may be slightly stronger and would stay fairly shiny without having to apply lots of elbow grease.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/brand-new-mitsubishi-triton-nudge-bar-/230774309048?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bb3880b8#ht_1018wt_1144

[RMX]

The bar is only as strong as its mounts and it appears it would mount to the same spot as the factory alloy nudge bars.. 4 M10x40 bolts.

A decent roo strike could see the bolts shear on either a steel or alloy bar.

Depends what you like the look of more, The lower factory nudge bar or the higher loop on the aftermarket bar. Do you want to install spotlights? Does the steel bar have tabs for them to mount on?

I'd also factor in airbag compatibility - Will the aftermarket eBay bar have been designed and tested? Maybe.. The Mitsubishi one definitely has.



In other news, I threw some Hella 4000's on mine the other day:

[Stan53]

I fitted my nudge bar yesterday. I have no intention of bouncing roo's off the bar. I have it as an antenna mounting bar. I play with Ham radio and we use some fairly hefty antennas. And these vehicles are not exactly flush with places to park antennas.
Thanks for the mounting instructions. They were helpful. Although the template was useless. Also the pneumatic saw was also useless. We used tin snips. Did a better job.

[j3st3r]

I finally ordered a nudge bar off ebay this arvo. Could someone send me through a copy of the installation instructions. Thanks in advance