Cooling System Service Campaign

[SeaSimon]

That's why I'm trying to work out how the replacement engine number sits in sequence. Not sure how the letters sequence?

[1600dave]

Buying secondhand is always a risk especially with an unknown history.

Check full service history including all warranty work carried out and recalls. The Dealer Service Department will be able to give you a print out of the complete history if it has been dealer serviced, they just need the VIN.

How much of the new car warranty is remaining?

What sort of extra warranty can the dealer provide, at what cost and what is covered?

What sort of money are they asking for it?

If you really want a Challenger then maybe a MY14 PC with lower kms and more factory warranty might be worth the extra $$$.

OJ.

Would love something newer, but we're after a 7 seater, and cant afford the extra for the Pajero Sport. Whilst not the best 7 seater, the Challenger has the least amount of compromises for us.

Its had up to 60k service completed by Mitsubishi and all recalls except indicator stalk and rear door struts which are outstanding.
They're after $29990 for it without any negotiating so far. Need to find out what warranty is left, and that the services after 60k have all been completed on time.

Anyway I'll leave it at that to keep this thread on topic. Thanks for the input, much appreciated

[old Jack]

Would love something newer, but we're after a 7 seater, and cant afford the extra for the Pajero Sport. Whilst not the best 7 seater, the Challenger has the least amount of compromises for us.

Its had up to 60k service completed by Mitsubishi and all recalls except indicator stalk and rear door struts which are outstanding.
They're after $29990 for it without any negotiating so far. Need to find out what warranty is left, and that the services after 60k have all been completed on time.

Anyway I'll leave it at that to keep this thread on topic. Thanks for the input, much appreciated

Dave, at $30K the Challenger you are looking at is about $5K overpriced, have you done a search on Redbook to check the valuation and real market value?
Carsales has this 7 seater in Victoria advertised for $22.5K and it is a private sale so I reckon you could knock another $2K off with a cash offer.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/results?sortby=TopDeal&limit=12&q=%28%28%28%28%28%28Make%3D%5BMitsubishi%5D%26Model%3D%5BChallenger%5D%29%26BodyStyle%3D%5BSUV%5D%29%26State%3D%5BVictoria%5D%29%26Service%3D%5BCarsales%5D%29%26Price%3Drange%5B0..25000%5D%29%26Seats%3Drange%5B7..%5D%29

OJ.

[SeaSimon]

As of this last week the "replacement long engine" failed and now a replacement short block is going in and will be mated with the replacement head. The replacement engine did only 35K KM over about 2.5 years.

Now wondering what to do when I get it back.
MY12 with 120K KM overall
35k KM on the head and now a new block...

Keeper?

[PeterC51]

As of this last week the "replacement long engine" failed and now a replacement short block is going in and will be mated with the replacement head. The replacement engine did only 35K KM over about 2.5 years.

Now wondering what to do when I get it back.
MY12 with 120K KM overall
35k KM on the head and now a new block...

Keeper?

That's very disappointing but at least they are doing a replacement. My MY10 PB had a long engine replacement at 86,000 kms and am just over 158K km now - so 70K kms on the replacement. It complicates servicing but to have another change as you're now receiving would make the servicing schedule even worse. It also torpedoes confidence in the vehicle. Not for me to tell you what to do but I dunno that I could hang onto mine if it had another replacement donk. Good luck with it.

[littleriver]

Been a few engine replacements .. and good on Mitsubishi coming to the party ...

I can tell you all many other manufacturers are having engine implosions.. and even within warranty are not being replaced .. and out of warranty well no hope at all ..

Be careful of which vehicle you may choose to replace your beloved Mitsubishi with ..
Just my 2 cents worth ...

...

[Onyx]

After some advice. I have coolant overflowing out of the overflow bottle and wondering where I should start first.

The car had it's 75k km service done a few weeks ago and we've driven from Canberra and now in Alice Springs on our way to the Kimberley. The car is a late 2014 build and never gotten hot before and isn't now. We are towing a cub camper which ways in at about 1500kg and the ambient temps have been below mid 20 degrees. We've done a few corrugated roads on the way but nothing extreme and it only started about 30km out of Alice.

Hopefully the dealers service area will open in the morning so will drop in, but is there anything I should be looking at? Could it be blocked thermostat?

Many thanks in advance.

[old Jack]

After some advice. I have coolant overflowing out of the overflow bottle and wondering where I should start first.

The car had it's 75k km service done a few weeks ago and we've driven from Canberra and now in Alice Springs on our way to the Kimberley. The car is a late 2014 build and never gotten hot before and isn't now. We are towing a cub camper which ways in at about 1500kg and the ambient temps have been below mid 20 degrees. We've done a few corrugated roads on the way but nothing extreme and it only started about 30km out of Alice.

Hopefully the dealers service area will open in the morning so will drop in, but is there anything I should be looking at? Could it be blocked thermostat?

Many thanks in advance.

Hi Onyx,

No need to panic at the moment or cancel your trip.

1. What is the pressure rating on the radiator cap, is it 127kpa if not what?
2. Is the hose that connects to radiator to the overflow bottle a tight fit on both ends and does the hose have any split, cracks or holes in it?
3. When the engine is cold is the overflow bottle full or empty.
4. When the engine is cold is the radiator coolant level high or low?
5. Is the pickup pipe and overflow bottle cap in one piece with no cracks or holes in the pickup pipe or spout?
6. All radiator and heater hoses do not have any sign of coolant leaks.

This is how the system works.
1. Engine coolant gets hot and expands, radiator cap opens at 127kpa and allows coolant to flow into the overflow bottle.
2. Engine coolant cools down and the system creates a vacuum so the coolant is sucked back into the radiator. This is why the radiator cap must be sealing and operating correctly on the radiator, there are no leaks in radiator or heater hoses, no leaks in the overflow hose or overflow bottle pickup pipe.
3. The system must be air tight and the radiator cap must be working correctly.

You will be very lucky if the Mitsubishi Dealer Service Department in Alice Springs can look at your car tomorrow, this time of the year they have a reputation for taking up to 10 days before they can squeeze you in!

So I would be buying and fitting a new genuine radiator cap.
Buying 4 litres of distilled water and topping up the radiator to full and the overflow bottle to the low mark when the engine is cold.
Continue driving north but not go across the Tanami Track head to Katherins, stick to the Stuart Hwy, by the time you get to Katherine them we will have an idea if you need to go to Darwin or it is ok to head west to the Kimberley.
Keep an eye on the temp gauge, if it gets to 3/4 stop and let it cool down, then drive no more than 80kph and keep and eye on the temperature.
At the end of the day look at full the overflow bottle is and take a photo or mark the level on the bottle. Do not remove the radiator cap until the next morning.
Next morning check overflow bottle is back down to low/cold mark, if not take another photo. Then check radiator level and top up, record quantity of water added to radiator.
Repeat this on a daily basis and report back.

Email me via the forum as well as post the results.

Even if you have a problem you should be able to manage this on a daily basis for sometime before it becomes a major problem.

Once I know what the overflow and radiator levels are doing on a daily basis I can then give further advice. You must do these checks on a daily basis!

OJ.

[Onyx]

Thanks OJ, really appreciate it. I'll recheck in the morning and report.

[aicher]

Sensor question

Hi All
I know this has probably been asked before but want a bit of info ion the overheating problem. My 2010 PB (130,000 km) out of the blue on a trip from Brisbane to Melbourne (towing our camper) started to overheat. Short story - had radiator, water pump and thermostat replaced. Got home to Melbourne and all seemed well. But a couple of months ago on return trip to Qld - overheating again. Struggled to Qld (replaced radiator cap on way no difference). Finally got here and took to local radiator specialist who could find nothing so took to local MMA. They had it for about a week and ran all sorts of tests but no overheating. In the end they reckoned the problem was a gummed up sensor. Been driving since and seems OK but have not towed the camper yet.

Just wondering about the sensor claim - does anyone know if a gummed up sensor can cause overheating?? Or could this be the motor problem?? Thanks

[old Jack]

Hi All
I know this has probably been asked before but want a bit of info ion the overheating problem. My 2010 PB (130,000 km) out of the blue on a trip from Brisbane to Melbourne (towing our camper) started to overheat. Short story - had radiator, water pump and thermostat replaced. Got home to Melbourne and all seemed well. But a couple of months ago on return trip to Qld - overheating again. Struggled to Qld (replaced radiator cap on way no difference). Finally got here and took to local radiator specialist who could find nothing so took to local MMA. They had it for about a week and ran all sorts of tests but no overheating. In the end they reckoned the problem was a gummed up sensor. Been driving since and seems OK but have not towed the camper yet.

Just wondering about the sensor claim - does anyone know if a gummed up sensor can cause overheating?? Or could this be the motor problem?? Thanks

As you already know you can spend a lot of time and money eliminating all other alternatives to the cause of engine overheating but my view, is to carry out an exhaust gas in coolant test first.
This takes the possible Block/Head problems out of the equation so then you can focus on all other possibilities.

"Gummed up Sensor", I have seen a faulty/over reading ECU Coolant Sensor give the incorrect info to the Engine ECU but the gauge coolant sensor operated correctly and did not display any overheating on the dash gauge.



OJ.

[alsdid]

Hi all,
After reading through the posts on the various overheating issues I think I may have a faulty temp sensor.
4 years ago when returning to Brisbane with pop top in tow (<2T, @ 90-95kph, in 4th gear manual) & outside temp 37 degrees, the temp gauge shot up to the red (5.0).
Dropped back to 80kph & gauge settled back to normal (2.5 on gauge). This occurred several times, so drove home at 80. Have towed the van numerous times since in 35-37 outside temp with no issues.
Jump forward to last week, driving in heavy rain @ 19 degrees outside temp & hilly terrain, the temp gauge went into the red & when I backed off dropped only slightly.
Stopped at rest area, everything seemed OK, no coolant (green) was pushed into the overflow tank (clear), no bubbling sounds & I was able to rest my hand on the top tank without burning.
I kept going & was able to travel at 60kph on the old highway but the temp kept fluctuating between 3.5 & 4.5 & 5.0.
Stopped at a 2nd rest area, left the car running, same as before, no coolant exchange, OK to touch & fan operating. Had a drink & a walk around, temp gauge back on normal 2.5.
Drove the last 50k to my destination, no issues, normal 2.5. Returning home also no issues, sat on 2.5 all the way, even with bumper to bumper peak hour traffic on the Gold Coast.

Your thoughts?

[old Jack]

Hi Alsdid,

The PB/PC Challenger has 2 engine coolant temperature sensors.
1. Engine ECU engine coolant temperature sensor is a 2 wire sensor, wire colours violet and light green, Part Number 1308A102.
2. Dash Gauge engine coolant temperature sensor single wire, wire colour green. Part Number MD091056. At 70°C the resistance is 104.0 ± 13.5 Ω so you can check the wiring and gauge by disconnecting the green wire, place a 100 Ohm resistor between the green wire and earth and the dash gauge should read about 1/2 scale.

Also worth checking,
1. That viscous fan stops immediately when warm engine is shutdown.
2. All radiator shrouds are in place.
3. Engine coolant level in overflow bottle returns to the same level after engine has fully cooled down (overnight is best), check this weekly over an extended period.

OJ.

[Brianjc]

Hello all,
Long time lurker of this forum, decided to register to report that the engine in my 2010 LS Challenger has suddenly failed with all the classic symptoms of the machining fault with the 4d56 engine.
Took my challenger to Werribee Mitsubishi in Melbourne and it failed the stress test. I am now getting a new long motor fitted to my vehicle courtesy of Mitsubishi. Not bad considering my challenger recently had its 13th birthday and is out of warranty by nearly 8 years. As a side note my challenger had the overheating campaign done January 2015 with just under 52k on the
clock, it finally failed with just under 186k on the clock. The engine lasted just over 130k before it failed.

Brian

[old Jack]

Hi Brian,

Thankyou for your post, glad MMAL through the dealer came to the party with the engine replacement, this is excellent aftersales service.
Did you buy the Challenger new?
Have you always had dealer servicing or have you used non dealer servicing?
My Challenger passed the service campaign at about 60,000km and has now done just under 200,000kms.
I still watch the coolant temperature and the coolant level closely because it is a case of "never say never" and "touch wood".

OJ.