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  • Muzza
    Valued Member
    • Jul 2007
    • 858
    • Nsw

    #31
    Originally posted by Ian H View Post

    I averaged 13.6L/100klm with LU Mate on all the way. Got to be happy with that !

    On the flat road I could easily tow in 5th with the TC locked and just jumped back to 4th for the steeper inclines. Was generally doing about 92-94kph GPS speed

    Extremely happy with that result.
    can you tell me, when it drops from 5 back to 4 when towing either manual shifting or auto mode, is it smooth to shift or harsh shift, Ie bang or knock
    Thanks
    Muzza
    2014 NW VRX , Alloy ECB bar, Poly air bags, EGR fixed. EDS scan gauge, lockup mate.
    2003 NP DID GLS retired and gone to a good home
    2007 21' Lotus spirit caravan

    LH Torana

    Comment

    • m_and_m
      Valued Member
      • Mar 2010
      • 1811
      • Tea Tree Gully, Adelaide

      #32
      Originally posted by Muzza View Post
      can you tell me, when it drops from 5 back to 4 when towing either manual shifting or auto mode, is it smooth to shift or harsh shift, Ie bang or knock
      Thanks
      Hi Muzza,
      No, you never get a bang or knock. The gear shifts are smooth. Not as smooth as with the torque converter, but nothing like a knock.
      2016 NX Exceed 3.2 DiD, BullBar | 2" OME lift | Safari snorkel | UHF | Towbar | Tow pro elite ECB | Full Bushskinz UBP and side steps | HID highbeam upgrade | 9" LED spots | 100Ahr Aux. Battery | HPD Oil catch can | Flappy Paddles | auto-matePRO
      2016 LC200 Sahara V8 Diesel,Lots of Mods too
      Checkout our products at MM4x4 http://www.mm4x4.com.au auto-mate and lockup-mate for Mitsubishi's and Toyota's

      Comment

      • Ian H
        Valued Member
        • May 2015
        • 2496
        • Melbourne

        #33
        As MandM said, it's not a harsh change. You can feel it more because it stays locked but no banging.
        2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.

        Comment

        • Muzza
          Valued Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 858
          • Nsw

          #34
          Originally posted by m_and_m View Post
          Hi Muzza,
          No, you never get a bang or knock. The gear shifts are smooth. Not as smooth as with the torque converter, but nothing like a knock.
          thanks, now just gotta save my change LOL
          Muzza
          2014 NW VRX , Alloy ECB bar, Poly air bags, EGR fixed. EDS scan gauge, lockup mate.
          2003 NP DID GLS retired and gone to a good home
          2007 21' Lotus spirit caravan

          LH Torana

          Comment

          • Keithyv
            Valued Member
            • May 2018
            • 1367
            • Perth

            #35
            I just towed (for the 1st time in the NW Pajero) our small (approx. 900kg) van a few hours (South of Perth)

            I don't have a lockup mate or anything similar at present.
            What I did note was this:

            TC quite often decided to stay unlocked on flat ground at about 105 indicated (about 95 - 97 actual)

            Backing off the throttle slightly caused it to lock (revs dropped from about 2200 or so down to 2000 or so) but it very easily and often unlocked again with the slightest load change or throttle shift

            When unlocked, AT temps sat in the high 90's or low 100's. (highest I saw was around 109)
            When locked instantly started to drop to high 80's


            My observations are thus:
            No, the TC does NOT always lockup at above 100 as I have read elsewhere.
            Manual shifting back to 4th and then to 5th sometimes helped it lock but soon after it unlocked again.

            A question: is the TC supposed to lockup in manual mode or does it only depend on speed, throttle, engine load etc?

            With a lockup-mate, is a setting of 60 the same as factory or will it still lockup 'earlier' than not having the kit at all?
            i.e. on a scale of factory and 'lockup most of the time' what setting between 60 and 160 would factory lockup settings be?
            2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
            MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.

            Comment

            • m_and_m
              Valued Member
              • Mar 2010
              • 1811
              • Tea Tree Gully, Adelaide

              #36
              Originally posted by Keithyv View Post
              A question: is the TC supposed to lockup in manual mode or does it only depend on speed, throttle, engine load etc?
              Factory program uses a combination of speed and accelerator pedal position, and gear. At 100kph, in 4th it will remain locked up for longer (ie with more engine load). Manual (Sport) and DRIVE use the same lockup program.

              Originally posted by Keithyv View Post
              With a lockup-mate, is a setting of 60 the same as factory or will it still lockup 'earlier' than not having the kit at all?
              i.e. on a scale of factory and 'lockup most of the time' what setting between 60 and 160 would factory lockup settings be?
              No, not quite that simple to answer. The 60-160 is to allow you to adjust, a bit, the engine load before it unlocks. Most people don’t change it from default. I haven’t tried to determine how to replicate factory.
              Lockup-mate will lock the TCC much more frequently. You can even set it to ignore the pedal position and give full control to the driver.
              2016 NX Exceed 3.2 DiD, BullBar | 2" OME lift | Safari snorkel | UHF | Towbar | Tow pro elite ECB | Full Bushskinz UBP and side steps | HID highbeam upgrade | 9" LED spots | 100Ahr Aux. Battery | HPD Oil catch can | Flappy Paddles | auto-matePRO
              2016 LC200 Sahara V8 Diesel,Lots of Mods too
              Checkout our products at MM4x4 http://www.mm4x4.com.au auto-mate and lockup-mate for Mitsubishi's and Toyota's

              Comment

              • HeavyPizzaz
                Valued Member
                • May 2017
                • 807
                • Sydney

                #37
                Ordered a Lock Up Mate last night. Putting it into an NX. Can anyone tell me what needs to be pulled apart for install? Centre console removal? Dash components after steering wheel? Not worried about those, had those off before, I’m mostly worried about what needs to come out to get the LED button on the A pillar but plenty of ppl have done it DIY so surely can’t be too difficult?

                Comment

                • Ian H
                  Valued Member
                  • May 2015
                  • 2496
                  • Melbourne

                  #38
                  Not much involved in panel removal. It's mainly getting at he ECU in the passenger foot well and feeding wires to the drivers side over the transmission tunnel, around the fuse box area and clipping the button to the door trim. It's not hard and the instructions Marshall supplies are very comprehensive. The scary bit is making sure you cut the right wires but just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
                  2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.

                  Comment

                  • HeavyPizzaz
                    Valued Member
                    • May 2017
                    • 807
                    • Sydney

                    #39
                    Originally posted by Ian H View Post
                    Not much involved in panel removal. It's mainly getting at he ECU in the passenger foot well and feeding wires to the drivers side over the transmission tunnel, around the fuse box area and clipping the button to the door trim. It's not hard and the instructions Marshall supplies are very comprehensive. The scary bit is making sure you cut the right wires but just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
                    Great, thanks Ian! Looking forward to it.

                    Comment

                    • Ian H
                      Valued Member
                      • May 2015
                      • 2496
                      • Melbourne

                      #40
                      I'd suggest you get a small set of trim removal tools if you don't already have some. Makes it easier and they come in handy for other jobs.
                      2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.

                      Comment

                      • HeavyPizzaz
                        Valued Member
                        • May 2017
                        • 807
                        • Sydney

                        #41
                        Originally posted by Ian H View Post
                        I'd suggest you get a small set of trim removal tools if you don't already have some. Makes it easier and they come in handy for other jobs.
                        Thanks mate I have 4 or 5 of those plastic tools. Definitely very useful!

                        Comment

                        • HeavyPizzaz
                          Valued Member
                          • May 2017
                          • 807
                          • Sydney

                          #42
                          Installed Lock Up Mate today. Took a fair few hours haha. But I learnt lots. Ran the diagnostics and passed with flying colours.

                          Question about something on which the operating instructions aren’t real clear. When can I expect to see the blue LED illuminate? I only gave it a short run but should I have seen it already apart from it flashing either short or long to confirm that it’s switched off or on? Coz that’s all I’ve seen of it so far. Doesn’t stay on? Cheers.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                          Comment

                          • Poita
                            Valued Member
                            • Sep 2010
                            • 1070
                            • Adelaide

                            #43
                            The light (and torque converter) only will go on once the transmission oil has reached operating temp. I think it's about 50 degrees. So you need to drive for a bit to get it warm.
                            NW VRX MY2013
                            Jonny Tig FMIC, 3" Exhaust, RalliArt remap, Provent, FuelManager, CouplerTec rust protection, ARB bar, Runva winch, TJM Snorkel, Bilstein/Lovell/Airbags, full Bushskins kit, Asfir AC+fuel, Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000 spotties + LED headlights, Uniden UHF, RedArc TowPro Elite, BRC breathers, Honda sprayers, Automate lockup/paddles, Rhino platform/backbone

                            Comment

                            • HeavyPizzaz
                              Valued Member
                              • May 2017
                              • 807
                              • Sydney

                              #44
                              Originally posted by Poita View Post
                              The light (and torque converter) only will go on once the transmission oil has reached operating temp. I think it's about 50 degrees. So you need to drive for a bit to get it warm.
                              Thanks mate. Taking a longer drive tomorrow so will look out for it.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                              Comment

                              • Ian H
                                Valued Member
                                • May 2015
                                • 2496
                                • Melbourne

                                #45
                                Mine comes on a lot earlier than waiting for the temp to reach 50 degrees. More like 30 so it doesn't take much of a drive to get it to start up. I haven't had a look in the booklet but there may be a setting to change the temp it activates at ?

                                When the blue light is on, the TC is locked. No blue light (under 30kph for example) it's not locked. So if you are just in normal drive mode, not sports mode, the blue light should be on most of the time and your dash display should also tell you what gear it's in..
                                2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.

                                Comment

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