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Advice on replacing front wheel bearing's please

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  • stumagoo
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2014
    • 2064
    • Perth WA S.O.R

    #16
    Originally posted by bigfella78 View Post
    Thanks.. I hope the weather clears up in WA on Sunday.. don't think i can lift the car in the garage.. haha
    ha ha I am in perth and thinking the same thing..... I have to change front UCA bushes after last weekends run and the warthog wont fit in the garage at all..... so waiting for this rain to stop.
    1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
    *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
    1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
    .

    Comment

    • NJV6
      Valued Member
      • Sep 2010
      • 606
      • New Zealand

      #17
      You only need the front half in the garage! That'll fit!
      1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
      1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
      2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

      Comment

      • stumagoo
        Valued Member
        • Jun 2014
        • 2064
        • Perth WA S.O.R

        #18
        cant open the bonnet or get any further than the windscreen...... crappy cheap houses mass built
        1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
        *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
        1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
        .

        Comment

        • bigfella78
          Valued Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 420
          • Mandurah, WA

          #19
          I ran out of time on sunday.. Guess its going to be a midnight job this week.. Heading to Kal for the weekend and want the wheels aligned before I tow the camper all that way..
          2018 NX GLS, Munji DPF delete, MCC 808-02 Phoenix Bar, ARB Awning.

          GONE but not forgotten - 1998 NL GLS, ARB Bull bar, GME UHF, Rhino Rack roof cage, Terrain Tamer Suspension, Mickey Thompson ATZ, Long range tank, Snorkel & Rallye 2000 Driving lights.

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          • Paj man
            Valued Member
            • Mar 2010
            • 858
            • Perth

            #20
            You'll be right mate - like baker said way back just make sure you have then torque'd correctly. I do mine up firm initially and give it a quick drive around the block before adjusting them properly - gives it a little run in.

            Enjoy Kal! It's lovely this time of year (but cold)
            1997 NK - Quad cam goodness turning 33 Duratrac's and 4.9 diffs, 2inch lift, steel front/sides/rear, front locker and a winch

            Now pending: Nothing

            Comment

            • paul77
              Member
              • Apr 2017
              • 183
              • Sunny Coast

              #21
              I'm just overhauling the front suspension and putting in new drive shafts. When I took the left knuckle out I got a lot of dust of the wheel arch into the back of it... So I'll have to clean the whole thing out before putting it back in. I was thinking to put new wheel bearings in while I'm at it. Just for peace of mind. Do they normally come with all the seals needed? Does anyone have a part number for the little needle bearing?

              I have manual hubs. They have a fair bit of play although nothing appears to be worn. Has anyone else noticed that with their hubs?

              Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
              Current: 1997 NK Pajero 2.8, 2' lift, ARB bar, warn winch, snorkel, suspension seats...

              Sold:1997 NL Pajero 3.5 SOHC V6
              2" Suspension lift, manual avm hubs, 33" Falken AT, rock sliders, solar panel, roof platform, custom mud guards, awning, snorkel, K&N intake, breathers, dual battery, inverter, various power points with fuse box, custom fridge slide and shelf in back, removable bed platform, legal 5-seater.

              Comment

              • gemster
                Valued Member
                • Aug 2012
                • 698
                • Gold Coast

                #22
                I would also like that part number too to the needle bearing.....

                Yes the wheel bearings that I got came with seals... ask when you purchase them...
                Tip.. Sparesbox on ebay has some great specials on atm... and they have Afterpay...

                I have dealt with them several times and are a great mob and prices are the best I have found... that's where I got my bearings, Rotors, pads, and bits from...

                Gemster...
                YES. ITS A MITZY . 97 NL 3.5 GLS AUTO (Formally owned by geopaj)__ Snorkel ,2 Uniden Uhfs , Roof Console, 2"lift, TT Suspension, Dual bat, Redarc System, BFG KO2's All Terrains, 55L sub tank, Pioneer sound, Milford cargo barrier, Extractors, SS exhaust, Rear camp light, Free Wheel Hubs, Improved Rear Storage unit, Alarm, Led interior lamps...
                And a 1999 NL LWB... Called 'Project Covid".. Stock Standard.
                ..Both with No Airbags. We die like real Men

                Comment

                • paul77
                  Member
                  • Apr 2017
                  • 183
                  • Sunny Coast

                  #23
                  The brand of my hubs is Yjdap.. is anyone knows them.

                  Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
                  Current: 1997 NK Pajero 2.8, 2' lift, ARB bar, warn winch, snorkel, suspension seats...

                  Sold:1997 NL Pajero 3.5 SOHC V6
                  2" Suspension lift, manual avm hubs, 33" Falken AT, rock sliders, solar panel, roof platform, custom mud guards, awning, snorkel, K&N intake, breathers, dual battery, inverter, various power points with fuse box, custom fridge slide and shelf in back, removable bed platform, legal 5-seater.

                  Comment

                  • gemster
                    Valued Member
                    • Aug 2012
                    • 698
                    • Gold Coast

                    #24
                    Never seen them or heard of them...

                    Gemster....
                    YES. ITS A MITZY . 97 NL 3.5 GLS AUTO (Formally owned by geopaj)__ Snorkel ,2 Uniden Uhfs , Roof Console, 2"lift, TT Suspension, Dual bat, Redarc System, BFG KO2's All Terrains, 55L sub tank, Pioneer sound, Milford cargo barrier, Extractors, SS exhaust, Rear camp light, Free Wheel Hubs, Improved Rear Storage unit, Alarm, Led interior lamps...
                    And a 1999 NL LWB... Called 'Project Covid".. Stock Standard.
                    ..Both with No Airbags. We die like real Men

                    Comment

                    • paul77
                      Member
                      • Apr 2017
                      • 183
                      • Sunny Coast

                      #25
                      I looked them up and they are $20 on Aliexpress..... They were on the car when I bought it. I might replace them with something decent. Any recommendations?
                      Does anyone have the automatic free wheeling hubs that you often see on cruisers?

                      Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
                      Current: 1997 NK Pajero 2.8, 2' lift, ARB bar, warn winch, snorkel, suspension seats...

                      Sold:1997 NL Pajero 3.5 SOHC V6
                      2" Suspension lift, manual avm hubs, 33" Falken AT, rock sliders, solar panel, roof platform, custom mud guards, awning, snorkel, K&N intake, breathers, dual battery, inverter, various power points with fuse box, custom fridge slide and shelf in back, removable bed platform, legal 5-seater.

                      Comment

                      • paul77
                        Member
                        • Apr 2017
                        • 183
                        • Sunny Coast

                        #26
                        I don't know if there are any professionals here..
                        According to the repair manual and the way it was on my NL, Mitsubishi has the lock nut directly on the bearing and the washer outside. The little bolts go through the lock washer into the lock nut. On Toyota, Nissan etc it is usually the other way round. The assembly (lining the holes up) is a lot easier the other way. Does anyone know why Mitsubishi decided to do it different?

                        I've got it all back together now with new CV shafts, uca bushes, bearings, gaskets, needle bearings, AVM hubs.
                        The upper control arm bushes where a hell of a job! Needed to make a few tools to get them pressed in....
                        Nothing I'd recommend to anyone without a well equipped workshop and a lot of experience!
                        For pulling out the needle bearings I recommend using a glide hammer. Worked a treat.


                        Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
                        Current: 1997 NK Pajero 2.8, 2' lift, ARB bar, warn winch, snorkel, suspension seats...

                        Sold:1997 NL Pajero 3.5 SOHC V6
                        2" Suspension lift, manual avm hubs, 33" Falken AT, rock sliders, solar panel, roof platform, custom mud guards, awning, snorkel, K&N intake, breathers, dual battery, inverter, various power points with fuse box, custom fridge slide and shelf in back, removable bed platform, legal 5-seater.

                        Comment

                        • MMC89TD2.5
                          Junior Member
                          • Apr 2017
                          • 14
                          • Newcastle, NSW

                          #27
                          link for informations sake:



                          step by step photo's of process. I'm replacing rotors/researching re-seating outer bearings now, sharing this in kind..

                          yeah seeing a few comments about not needing to torque the bearings in with the lock nut wrench, which is giving me a headache trying to find something suitable. On one hand I want to make sure the bearings a seated right, on the other it's *!#$*% expensive tool for that one step.

                          Comment

                          • pharb
                            Valued Member
                            • Jul 2007
                            • 1038
                            • Tyers,Vic

                            #28
                            As a Heavy Vehicle mechanic for many years the Mitsubishi front hub bearings are some of the easist to work on and most reliable assemblies I have come across.

                            Remove Free Wheeling Hub assembly, or the drive plate as fitted standard to Gen 2 models. And the brake caliper asemblies.

                            Remove the 2 screws holding the lock plate/washer on. Need a large Phillips head screwdriver. Sometimes might need an impact driver.

                            Using 2 large Phillips head screwdrivers, or pin punches of about 8mm diameter, poke the drivers into the 2 holes in the tensioning nut, hold them parallel then place a large screw driver or pinch bar between the Phillips heads or pin punches and rotate.

                            It should not be tight. Just nipped up. If it is maybe the thread is damaged or something.

                            Service bearings as required.

                            Reassemble the same as you pulled apart.

                            To tension bearing I just use the screw drivers in the same fashion, tightening up as tight as I can with the screw drivers in nut holes and lever to make sure everything is seated, then back off until I can feel a little bit of free play, then "nip up" until there is just a little bit of freeplay.

                            Fit brake caliper etc.

                            Fit wheel, tyre assembly so have some leverage over hub. Grab top of tyre and push, pull, in and out to guage free play. Tighten up nut until all freeplay is removed, but only just removed. Any freeplay will show up is slightly irregular wear on tyre shoulder or slight vibration through steering wheel.....sometimes. depends on tyre size, weight.

                            Once tension is right fit locking washer. May have to adjust the nut tension slightly to line holes up. I have found if tension is "right" backing off the nut half a hole will introduce freeplay, so I tend to tighten it up instead.

                            Complete reassembly. Test drive. Jack up and check freeplay to make sure there is none.

                            We have had in the family NAs, NBs, NCs, NJs, MKs and I even have a trailer with axle made up of Gen 2 hubs.

                            The Gen 1s are long gone, but never replaced front bearings. The NJ has nearly 500,000km on original bearings. Just had to replace seals a few times. The trailer is still using the bearings that where in the hubs when I bought them from wrecker 10 years ago. The MK has had the beearings replaced with second hand ones (from a wrecked vehicle we had) after mud ingress.
                            PCOV Member 1107.
                            Daily driver NX GLX
                            Semi retired NL GLS 3.5 (no airbags) in almost prestine condition to replace NJ.
                            Virtually fully retired NJ 2.8TD
                            Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB.

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