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**disco stu** · 06-10-20, 10:58 PM

According to Erad on here, there is what appears to be a code near the coils on the intake manifold. It's actually the order of the leads if you have it there. His was an Nl, so not sure if it's on the nj, but worth having a look

**stumagoo** · 07-10-20, 12:16 AM

my NJ 3.0 and my NL 3.5 have the firing order on the intake manifold --- I would not be surprised if the same is on the NJ 3.5

**erad** · 07-10-20, 07:59 AM

According to my Max Elery W/S manual, the firing order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, No 1 cylinder being the front Right side, No 2 being the front left side. If you buy NGK spark plug leads, the leads have appropriate cylinder numbers on the leads, which makes it much easier to connect the correct lead to the plugs. Make sure that you use the HT lead support clips and that you don't have the leads contacting each other or any part of the engine eg rocker covers, or you will get cross firing or mis-firing,

**stumagoo** · 07-10-20, 10:00 AM

Originally posted by erad View Post

According to my Max Elery W/S manual, the firing order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, No 1 cylinder being the front Right side, No 2 being the front left side. If you buy NGK spark plug leads, the leads have appropriate cylinder numbers on the leads, which makes it much easier to connect the correct lead to the plugs. Make sure that you use the HT lead support clips and that you don't have the leads contacting each other or any part of the engine eg rocker covers, or you will get cross firing or mis-firing,

That is the case with the firing order for sure but the wasted spark design means the coils and plugs are not connected in that order...

**erad** · 07-10-20, 10:07 AM

If you follow the numbers on the intake manifold, you will see that No 1 and No 4 both use the same coil, similarly No 2 and 5, and No 3 and 6. It is easy to get the leads mixed up. Don't ask me how I know.... Embarrassing when your wife asks what those numbers are for.

**Trevortsmith** · 07-10-20, 11:23 AM

Cheers buddy thats exactly the info i needed.
Trevor.

**Trevortsmith** · 07-10-20, 11:24 AM

Thanls everyone ill have it running this arv. Woo hoo!

**gemster** · 07-10-20, 11:28 PM

I have used a white marker and just marked each lead and position on coils so I know every time I disconnect them.... Makes things very easy to put back together..

Gemster...

**erad** · 08-10-20, 07:08 AM

Depending on how long the leads have been in use, they get brittle, and when you disturb them to remove the manifold or spark plugs, they are likely to break down when reinstalled. Often it is better to buy a new set of leads and replace the at the same time as the plugs.

**gemster** · 08-10-20, 03:17 PM

So what leads do you recommend Erad? im using NGK but feel compared to Genuine leads they seem a little thin. Genuine are around $170 NGK around $130... For $40 extra I can use Genuine...Better option?

Also what type of Spark plug? NGK Iridium ?(spell check) I have been told to use...

**erad** · 08-10-20, 04:50 PM

I found both these leads and plugs to be the best. If you are using LPG, the recommendation was to close the plug gaps down to 09. to 1.0 mm. Reason - LPG requires a higher voltage for the spark to jump the gap. Closing the gap reduces the required voltage and eases the load on the lead insulation. Closing the gap also extends the life of the plugs - you get spark erosion of the probe and for example in the first 100000 km in y NL, the plug gaps were a bit over 1.5 mm.

I used a variety of leads in my time. Bosch leads were too long and I had trouble getting them in without touching each other. I also used Top Gun and they were absolute crap - caused massive backfires which blew the air cleaner box and the air flow meter to bits. Initially I used NGK Platinum plugs, but in later years used Iridium plugs. Again, if you are using LPG, it is recommended to use plugs one grade colder. Depending on which brand of plug, the numbering system varies, but my ever fading memory tells me that the Iridium plugs use a system XXXX-6YYY, and the colder grad plug is XXXX-5YYY, but check with the supplier before you buy them. The plugs I wanted were not available in Australia so I bought them from Rockauto.com. They are much cheaper there, but the freight brings the prices back to about Oz levels. If you buy the leads and plugs from Rockauto, try to buy other stuff you need as well. Rockauto is just a warehouse and they buy stuff from various suppliers who ship direct from the supplier to you. SO if you get the leads from Supplier A and the plugs from Supplier B, you finish up paying double the freight, whereas if you get them both from the one supplier the total freight cost is less.

**gemster** · 08-10-20, 06:30 PM

Thanks, im not running gas.. Plain old 91 or if im lucky 95 (which it runs so sweet on).. I think you may be correct in the 5yyy vs 6yyy... I know leads are not to touch each other and must be not touching anything as well... Quite tricky bloody things... More than likely buy from an aussie place... They need the $$ ATM... I need to rattle your brain a bit more on something else, but one thing at a time for mine...

Gemster...

**Trevortsmith** · 13-10-20, 10:07 PM

Well there are 6 new plugs 3 new leads and 3 new coils and still a misfire then a backfire. The compression is good and it happens on gas as well as petrol so not a blocked injector. I re-fitted the leads as per this thread so they're correct is there some other sensor that could cause this? Or shall i just scrap the poxy thing!!!

**disco stu** · 13-10-20, 10:29 PM

Does unplugging airflow sensor make much difference to how it's running?
Have you tried checking for fault codes? There is information on the forums somewhere on how to do that at home on the gen 2

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Nj ignition leads amd coils

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