Rear Diff Seal

[DAUMULLER]

I need to replace rear RHS diff seal on my NP Pajero as it is leaking.
Are there any tricks to make this job easier as it looks like a bit of a pain.
Any detailed information photos or diagrams would be helpful.

[psproule]

Seal leaking or has the shaft just popped out (which is common in Gen 3's).?

[Lance]

Yes, it does sound like the rather common 'companion shaft' issue doesn't it.
Dan, do a search for 'Companion shaft'.

Here's a link to a recent thread discussing the problem.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=830&highlight=%27companion+shaft%27

[chrisall]

I need to replace rear RHS diff seal on my NP Pajero as it is leaking.
Are there any tricks to make this job easier as it looks like a bit of a pain.
Any detailed information photos or diagrams would be helpful.
Thanks Dan

Does this help?

http://docdro.id/kJKT4Ub

Cheers,

[DAUMULLER]

Rear diff seal

Thanks for the diagrams they will help.
I'm sure the seal is just leaking everything looks O.K other than that.
It started slowly and seems to be getting steadily worse.

[Lance]

Dan, compare the placement of both companion shafts in relation to the diff housing.
Does the RH side seem to be a little further out than the LH side ?
There doesn't need to be a lot of movement in the shaft for the seal to leak.
If it is the common problem, getting a bar onto the shaft flange to 'pop' it back in will fix it for now.

What is the build date of your Paj, prior to Oct 05 ?

[DAUMULLER]

Rear diff leak

Hi
Pajero is a NP JUL05 Manual V6 Petrol
It appears that you may be correct, driver side about 1/2 mm further out - a bit hard to tell
This side is leaking. What would you suggest is the best option.

[mrbitchi]

1/2 a mm is not popped out. Sounds like your'e right, just a seal gone. I did one in my Paj years ago. Fairly easy job if you can swing a spanner.
Just undo the bolts on the flange to drop the inner CV away from the companion shaft, lever the shaft out, replace the seal, pop the shaft back in, bolt up the flange, job done.

[Lance]

I doubt I'd notice 1/2mm and it would be difficult to measure without a vernier, but if it is 1/2mm, as
mrbitchi says just replace the seal yourself. It's not a hard job.

Could you have typod 1/2" ?

[DAUMULLER]

Rear Diff leak

I looked at the flanges and they are O.K but the face of where it goes in to the diff was only very slightly different from one side to the other.
When you change the seal do you need to change the circlip also on the companion shaft ?
Should I just change one seal that's leaking or both? I've done about 165000 km.
When doing the job are the wheels off the ground with the chassis supported or just on ramps.

[mrbitchi]

No need to replace the circlip. I only did the leaking side on mine.


Jack it up and support on chassis stands so you can rotate the wheel to get at all the flange bolts. Then put a jack under the hub to lift the wheel up more or less level. If its hanging down the flange is very hard to release.

[DAUMULLER]

Rear Diff leak

Thanks John
I'll order the seal to do the one that's leaking in a few weeks and give it a go.
Do you jack up the hub with chassis stands in place to lift the wheel into a normal position?
I have got spring spacers in so the CV shafts are still at a bit of an angle normally.

[mrbitchi]

Bit of angle is OK but if the suspension is at full drop you won't get them off. Also, be gentle with the flange or the inner cap between the flange and the companion shaft will pop out and grease goes everywhere.

[DAUMULLER]

Rear diff oil leak

Thanks John for the info.
How does this sound for a plan.
1. Put car on stands with rear wheels off the ground.
2. Loosen all bolts on flange between companion shaft and CV.
3. Jack up hub to get best angle for CV shaft.
4. Remove bolts and gently separate flange.
5 Hang CV shaft with wire out of the way and to take the weight.
6. Remove companion shaft from diff
7. Remove seal from diff
8. Install new seal
9. Refit companion shaft.
10 Bolt CV and companion shaft back together
11. Check diff oil and test run

[mrbitchi]

Sounds good to me, Dan. Be aware you'll need a breaker bar for the flange nuts. They're bloody tight!