Current sensing Variable Voltage alternators in NW...

[RJOther]

I found this description of smart charging systems at: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/042010_09.pdf

[Paj People 2009]

Guys,

Install a dual battery system, with a LINK function for heavy loads. We installed the TJM IBS system with battery display.

We use this with our boat trailer winch (or anything else via the Anderson plug for the van) and it works well.

Every 2nd week or so, we simply plug a CTEK charger in overnight and that keeps both batteries at optimum levels. Simple!

You could use an adequate folding solar panel set up when out in the bush too.

Almost 3 years old now and both batteries are fantastic. (Checked regularly with the multimeter).

Cheers,
Sally

[cranky]

Just an update on the current sensing Alternator, Towed the caravan to Mudgee and back for our holiday, installed a volt meter in the cigaret lighter to monitor the voltage,

1/ cruising or accelerating voltage goes down to 12.1v
2/ de-accelerating voltage went up to 13.5v-14.1v
3/ turned on the de-mister fan on the 1st speed and the voltage maintained
13.5v the whole way charging the Aux battery and running the engel fridge
in the back of the Paj, also running the 3 way dometic fridge in the caravan
and charging the caravan battery.

Happy to run the De-mister fan to maintain 13.5v without any further mods.

[pauld]

problem solved but with only 13.5 you would certainly want a DC-DC to charge batteries in the back

[cranky]

G'day pauld, yes i agree however the caravan battery is always fully charged before we leave on a trip its on 240v charging for a couple of days and there is no power drawn from it whilst travelling on the road, we only ever go to caravan parks which have 240v power, same for the aux battery running the engel its also on 240v in the car before we leave on a trip and the same at the caravan park.
cheers cranky

[skwiz05]

Finished!!

Well, its been a week or two (and one sprained ankle which slowed me down from doing car stuff) ...and Ive finally finished installing and tested the BCDC1220-IGN for my dual battery system.

Had to mount it on right side (no more space on left), approx between airbox and brake solenoids/master cylinder stuff. Used a 1.5mm sheet of ally, bent at right angles and fixed by 4 tek screws onto the side, unit faces up so lights can be seen. Cables routed along top rear edge of engine bay, all loomed in corro.

For the IGN activate signal, I spliced into the centre bottom wire in the windshield washer motor plug, which is powered with ign switch in accessories or on position -as has been eluded to in other threads on this forum (thanks those that supplied that info).

Dual battery monitor inside car tells a sweet story, easy to see when its doing its thing.

Also ran the two diff breathers while I was at it. Then finished bolting up the last 2 Bushskinz plates (TransM and transF). They look schmick too.

So, all up, we now have:

6BS power run (from main batt) to rear anderson plug for trailer, run under car in corro;
8BS run inside to dual merrits in rear, (off aux);
6mm run inside to rear for waeco, (off aux);
6mm run to under left dash to power dist fuse block, feeding both radios and a power socket front passenger side (off aux),
Dual batt monitor (Luna from OL);
Redarc EBRH installed using MM EB loom;
LightForce Lights (MM OE) and a second driving light loom installed (waiting for extra driving lights);

And its only 1:10 AM........why am I still awake?

Glad all the electrics are now finally done.........

[Vonpaulus67]

Thanks for thread as saved me $1000

Wanted to post a big thanks for this thread on the variable voltage Alternators in NT and NW Pajeros, it just saved me $1000 at the local auto electrician.
I have a 2010 NT GLS with a dual battery set up which wasn't charging the second battery (deep cycle) properly using a projecta isolator.
My problems started when the crank battery failed 2 weeks ago and I had a new one put in. Went to Kangaroo Island last week and found the Engel was making a faint humming noise and the temp was 14C instead of 2C so the beer had gone warm (alright if you are English). When I got back home I went to the local auto elec who put the meter on the leads and told me it was reading 12.7v instead of 14.4v, tried another meter and same result so he thought my alternator was kaput and going to cost me $1000. I went to the local Mitsubishi Dealer for a second opinion and they put their leads on the back of the alternator and told me no output so the alternator was dead and it was going to cost me about $1200 to replace.
What didn't compute for me was why was my crank battery still at 12.7v when I had been using it for 2 weeks including running spotties etc and supposedly had no alternator. Also the battery symbol lit up on my dash (along with all the others like glow plugs etc) and then went out as it was supposed to, apparently if your alternator is shot then the battery symbol wont show on the initial start up at all.
Hunted around the internet and found this thread which has been very helpful to say the least. Went back to Mitsubishi and spoke with a sheepish mechanic who has agreed this is most likely. Gone to a different auto elec and having the redarc isolator installed next friday. All good. Well done guys!

[mojo007]

I said in my last post that I will report on how my set up was going after a 6,000km trip towing my 2.5 tonne caravan. The voltage stayed close to 14 volts and didn't drop at all.As I reported last August, I earthed the 2nd battery to car body and not to the starting battery earth.

[green troll]

Just to revive this thread
I have a my14 Nw. My aux is earthed to main. Using a piranha 180sx. Not a dcdc.

I see high 13's on idle and under acceleration see 14.2 steadily.
But at idle it's rapidly change in the 13's. Wonder if this is the smart stuff kicking in.
I would love to get a .2volts more especially for the camper batt. Does anyone know how.
I should really be happy with what I have from what others have reported

[TripleO]

If you were to keep you low beam lights on while driving, then your main battery is kept under load receiving slow discharge preventing it from being fully topped up at all times. That's approximately 10A payload, not much at all, but will outsmart that smart alternator and will keep it going for as long as you need your aux battery being charged. I see no problem in driving with low beams on as this is perfectly acceptable during day light hours and even enforced in many European cities where traffic conditions are heavier than in Australia. You need only couple of hours to fully charge 100AH aux battery anyway. Just my 2c.

Agree and this is what I do and have no trouble charging 2 batteries in the camper trailer.

[nuttyalmond]

Hi. Read and re-read this thread and going by the voltage fluctuation on my scan gauge it suggest my late 2012 alternator is a smart one.
A while back I wired an Anderson plug into the cargo area via 50a cable fed from a relay energised when the ignition is on. This was to feed my new Engel eclipse.
I now want to feed a dc dc ctec in the caravan ( 100a agm and 12v Engel fridge 12.4a). My thinking is to replace the relay with a higher rated one. I thought about a vsr but this will cycle in and out with the alternator charging.
Any advise, thoughts on this would be good.
Regards mark