Running-in

[Dicko1]

In 2000, I bought a new NL Pajero. When it was delivered, I was in hospital and couldn't drive it for about a month, so my wife "ran the engine in" for me. Despite me telling her to work it harder, she steadfastly refused and drive it no more than 80 km/h for the first 1000 km. That engine burnt oil - typically 1 L for the first 2500 km after an oil change and then it used 1 L per 1000 km until the next oil change. I didn't like it, but oil was cheap. It was more a nuisance - I had to carry a litre of oil with me everywhere I went. At 235000 km, the engine was stripped down (my stuffup dropping a washer and not realising it), and the original honing marks were still quite plainly visible.

Modern engines are built to very fine tolerances, and do not require any special running in. Certainly, do not start the engine and take it out and thrash it to 6000 R/min without warming it up first, but let it warm up and then drive it normally, occasionally loading it up and then letting it run at light loads for a while. You have the cylinder bores to consider, and also the bearings. You stand a chance of glazing the bores if you don't load up the pistons properly, but remember the bearings, so make sure that the oil is warmed up properly before loading up the engine.

I bought a new harley 10 years ago and ran it in like an old woman!! Worst thing I could have done....Decided to power up the engine and at 8000klms the bores were glazed! As old mate said after a power rebuild...take it easy for 500klms - change oil -- -drive it like you stole it. It pulled like a 14 year old with a stick book after that!

[markc]

It's always good to see what manufactures that really know what they are doing recommend.

Yanmar manufacture and convert diesel engines (some from toyota base engines) for marine use. These typical run at high loads and outputs for extended periods.

Have a read of page 14 that covers break in for the BY3 series of engines

https://www.yanmar.com/media/global/com/product/marinepleasure/powerBoatPropulsion/operationmanual/BY3_OPM_0ABY0-G00301.pdf

This recommends 60~70% of load for the first 10 hours (1000 klm equivalent) of operation with the first 50hrs being critical and to avoid extended periods of idling and light loads.

Enjoy the read!

[BruceandBobbi]

It's always good to see what manufactures that really know what they are doing recommend.

Yanmar manufacture and convert diesel engines (some from toyota base engines) for marine use. These typical run at high loads and outputs for extended periods.

Have a read of page 14 that covers break in for the BY3 series of engines

https://www.yanmar.com/media/global/com/product/marinepleasure/powerBoatPropulsion/operationmanual/BY3_OPM_0ABY0-G00301.pdf

This recommends 60~70% of load for the first 10 hours (1000 klm equivalent) of operation with the first 50hrs being critical and to avoid extended periods of idling and light loads.

Enjoy the read!

We are talking Mitsubishi Pajero engines not Yanma boat motors. If all else fails read the Pajero Manual that came with your vehicle. Yes it is in there.

[markc]

We are talking Mitsubishi Pajero engines not Yanma boat motors. If all else fails read the Pajero Manual that came with your vehicle. Yes it is in there.

Im 100% for following the manual. Priciples are the same to stop glazing bores and ensure seating of rings. dont lightly load or idle, dont run hard, do load up and drive normally using mid range rpm.
Mitsubishi manual has bugger all detail

[erad]

As above - drive normally, don't thrash it. Let the engine warm up thoroughly and then drive it normally. When running it is, vary the speed as well. If you cannot vary the road speed, vary the engine speed by using different gears.

And remember that you are running in the whole vehicle, not just the engine. Transmissions like to be bedded in as well. Tyres too. Brakes - the list is endless.

[dhula]

One thing to remember is that you are not just running in the engine, you are running in the whole car - brakes, suspension, gearbox's, tyres, etc, etc


My opinion FWIW


In the 1st couple of hundred of kms
Warm up a cold engine for 2-3 mins before taking off
Drive at no more than 2/3 throttle and 2/3 rpm
Don't race the muppet next to you at the lights but keep up with the flow of traffic
Brake normally and try to avoid emergency braking if you can unless the muppet next to you wants your lane more than you do
Don't tow unless you need to
Let the engine idle for 2-3 mins before switching off


After 300 or so kms
Warm up a cold engine for 2-3 mins before taking off
Drive as you need/want to
Let the engine idle for 2-3 mins before switching off

[MiteeWidge]

Used to pick up a new prime mover from the dealership and if it was triple b double or snigle trailer rated then it was put straight to work at those weights. .Out Brown and Hurleys door,under a b double set and straight up the Toowoomba range at 63.5 tonne. Still get 1,000,000 k out of the drive line. No break in periods in the transport game and same for underground mining gear. AD 60 Cat trucks will spend their life dragging 80 tonne up a 1in 7 decline from day one. And in the worst possible conditions.