Running-in

[dreamerman]

Is 1000 kms enough for running in a new Pajero? I think the book says 1500 kms but I am itching to drive "normally". The sales person said to keep under 2000 rpm during running-in and that is what I have done.

[BruceandBobbi]

You can drive 'normally' from day one.

Salespeople don't have a clue.

[HeavyPizzaz]

Lol under 2,000rpm


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[Seigried]

The 1500 is more for doing the first service this is because factory engines typically run diffrent addatives to help engine run in from new. The idea is for you to drive it normally (traffic, highway, etc) and not flog it. The idea of under 2000rpm or don't do 100km/h would have ben good advise in 1960. Manufacturing techniques and metallurgy have moved on.

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[nj swb]

Forget the salesman - what does the Owner's Manual say?

With modern engine manufacturing, if it hasn't blown up by the time it hits the showroom, it's good to go.

I've read a few articles that suggest you're better off "running in hard" - use power to produce high combustion chamber pressures, to ensure rings bed in properly. Psychologically, it's hard for most of us to do with a brand new car, but now that you're past the "early failure" window (manufacturing defects) don't be afraid to use some pedal. If it's going to break under load, find out sooner rather than later.

[dreamerman]

Thanks guys I think I should drive "normally" from tomorrow

[Steve_H]

Drive it 'normally', put it under load and without load, run it through the rev range. Just don't drive it at the same revs, such as down a freeway yet.

[dreamerman]

Drive it 'normally', put it under load and without load, run it through the rev range. Just don't drive it at the same revs, such as down a freeway yet.

Gonna drive it like I stole it

[aussieintas]

Do you reckon police cars get run in

[Eski]

Mate is a GM of a MM dealership = engine assemblies are bench tested and run in prior to assembly into rolling chasis...

Just took it a bit easy the first tank and drove normally including a bit of a run through the dunes last week in MY 19 NX using 4H 4HLC and 4LLC. Just cruised up the highway 400km mostly 110km and achieved 12.1L p. 100km. Tank reading bit over half.

Cheers
Eski

[oscaroo]

I drove mine ... Firmly for the first 5000km

[Eski]

Return trip of 400km sat on 110 (115) got 12.4l according to read out did bowser calc at 11.1L = 3rd tank from new. Seemed to enjoy the run.

[markc]

Running in these days is much easier than years ago.
General rules to follow,
1. Always allow 2min idle after start and before shutdown to circulate oil in a cold engine and allow a hot engines internals to cool down
2. Drive normaly with moderate throttle keeping revs in reasonable limits, say 1500 to 2700.
3. Dont lug the engine, dont idle for long periods or rev above 80% of redline rpm
4. Dont sit at constant rpm for extended periods, vary throttle
5, Its ok to use moderate throttle up hills to bed rings followed by an easy cruise to let things cool, hilly roads are good for running in.
6, Change oil around 5000klm, not prior as some manufacturers use a specific oil on the 1st fill to help rings bed in. Dont use a synthetic oil under 5000klm unless its specifically ok too and in the owners manual
7. Dont tow heavy loads for the first 0 to 3000~5000klm
8. Enjoy the new drive

[Nab]

I forget the details but an old mate who used to drive concrete trucks (when I lived in Adelaide) said the trucks that were brand new and driven flat out fully loaded from day 1 (up the freeway towards Murray bridge) were the ones that were the “quickest” and got the best fuel economy.

Just some food for thought!

[erad]

In 2000, I bought a new NL Pajero. When it was delivered, I was in hospital and couldn't drive it for about a month, so my wife "ran the engine in" for me. Despite me telling her to work it harder, she steadfastly refused and drive it no more than 80 km/h for the first 1000 km. That engine burnt oil - typically 1 L for the first 2500 km after an oil change and then it used 1 L per 1000 km until the next oil change. I didn't like it, but oil was cheap. It was more a nuisance - I had to carry a litre of oil with me everywhere I went. At 235000 km, the engine was stripped down (my stuffup dropping a washer and not realising it), and the original honing marks were still quite plainly visible.

Modern engines are built to very fine tolerances, and do not require any special running in. Certainly, do not start the engine and take it out and thrash it to 6000 R/min without warming it up first, but let it warm up and then drive it normally, occasionally loading it up and then letting it run at light loads for a while. You have the cylinder bores to consider, and also the bearings. You stand a chance of glazing the bores if you don't load up the pistons properly, but remember the bearings, so make sure that the oil is warmed up properly before loading up the engine.