Delete pipe, first impressions

[Merts]

If one was inclined; one could remove the pressure pipes altogether and put bungs in the spigots where the pressure pipes went in.

Not a bad idea. If the light ever comes on again I might try that. Would be easy to do if you already had the car up on a hoist doing a service.

Just had a thought. You could jam something up the flexible pipes to block them, and then reconnect to the solid pipes. (Or clamp the flexible hoses to block them.) Then you wouldn't have to disconect the solid pipes from the race pipe or find suitable bolts to block the spigots on the race pipe.

[Angry]

Read what the last post Jawk sent to you said.............

You guys are making this way too hard......its a relativley simple fix.......
The pressure sensors need to read the same as each other or very close, ......so "jamming" something in one of them wont help you.

Take the pressure seror pipes out altogether & then get the plastic hoses at the end of the steel pressure sensor pipes & connect them together ,....so one goes into the other ........simple, no loose steel pipes & no rattling.

How long do you think nylon zip ties are going to last once the exhaust gets hot ???

The delete pipes are ok , & except for the one hanger bracket thats out about an inch , ....maybe thats to get the pipe to preload the rubber hangers a bit so it actually has some tension to hang back a bit ???.......I dunno what you guys are doing wrong

[Rich]

If one was inclined; one could remove the pressure pipes altogether and put bungs in the spigots where the pressure pipes went in.

Then one could use the longer of the two bits of rubber hose to loop the two pressure sensor lines together...

Then the only attachment to the race pipe would be the temp sensor.

Someone put up a pic of this but I cant find it...

I think this is what you mentioned

http://140.99.20.180/forum/showthread.php?t=17906&highlight=DPF+sensor+pipe

[Merts]

Read what the last post Jawk sent to you said.............

You guys are making this way too hard......its a relativley simple fix.......
The pressure sensors need to read the same as each other or very close, ......so "jamming" something in one of them wont help you.

Take the pressure seror pipes out altogether & then get the plastic hoses at the end of the steel pressure sensor pipes & connect them together ,....so one goes into the other ........simple, no loose steel pipes & no rattling.

How long do you think nylon zip ties are going to last once the exhaust gets hot ???

The delete pipes are ok , & except for the one hanger bracket thats out about an inch , ....maybe thats to get the pipe to preload the rubber hangers a bit so it actually has some tension to hang back a bit ???.......I dunno what you guys are doing wrong

Hi Angry,

I suggested blocking both of the flexible pipes, not one of them.

You are probably right that linking the two flexible pipes and removing the solid ones completely is probably the best bet.

Regarding the hanger bracket that is not in the correct position. The rubber hanger wouldn't last very long if you stretched it enough to link the bracket on the vehicle and the one on the race pipe as it was.

When you are paying around $450 for an item like this it isn't unreasable to expect it would just bolt on without having to bend hangers or put spacers between flanges.

[Rich]

Read what the last post Jawk sent to you said.............

You guys are making this way too hard......its a relativley simple fix.......
The pressure sensors need to read the same as each other or very close, ......so "jamming" something in one of them wont help you.

Take the pressure seror pipes out altogether & then get the plastic hoses at the end of the steel pressure sensor pipes & connect them together ,....so one goes into the other ........simple, no loose steel pipes & no rattling.

How long do you think nylon zip ties are going to last once the exhaust gets hot ???

The delete pipes are ok , & except for the one hanger bracket thats out about an inch , ....maybe thats to get the pipe to preload the rubber hangers a bit so it actually has some tension to hang back a bit ???.......I dunno what you guys are doing wrong

Angry,
Not sure what I am doing wrong either. I was not aware you could just remove those annoying pipes, I suppose as the delete pipe comes with no brackets like the DPF chipit may assume you should or would. I guess this could be included in an instruction sheet if they provided one.
I am not sure how long cable ties will last but they are not around the exhaust, just the sensor pipes.
Either way the suggestion of removing them is the best way to go as they make a bloody racket when lose. This is the one improvement I have noticed so far. They are tied up and do not rattle at the moment.

Rich

[jawk]

I think this is what you mentioned

http://140.99.20.180/forum/showthrea...PF+sensor+pipe

Yep - thats it, scroll down a few pics in the .pdf file. Others have left both rubber pipes and used a bit of bent copper pipe to loop them together...

[Merts]

Angry,
Not sure what I am doing wrong either. I was not aware you could just remove those annoying pipes, I suppose as the delete pipe comes with no brackets like the DPF chipit may assume you should or would. I guess this could be included in an instruction sheet if they provided one.
I am not sure how long cable ties will last but they are not around the exhaust, just the sensor pipes.
Either way the suggestion of removing them is the best way to go as they make a bloody racket when lose. This is the one improvement I have noticed so far. They are tied up and do not rattle at the moment.

Rich

If ChipIts intention was that the sensor pipes be removed completely they wouldn't bother welding the spigots in for them to screw into......

[jawk]

(snip)
When you are paying around $450 for an item like this it isn't unreasable to expect it would just bolt on without having to bend hangers or put spacers between flanges.

By the way - $450 is not "too" badly priced if you compare it to obtaining all the parts yourself then paying someone who can weld properly to do the work. Esp' when talking stainless...

Also, the temp sensor spigot is not a off the shelf size so you'll also need someone to make one for you.

Unless you know an exhaust place personally (ie. mutual trust) it would be verrrry difficult to get an exhaust place to do the job from go to whoa (some legal issues - apparently!)

(No affliliation etc etc - I dont even have a chip-it pipe...)

Also - with no dpf in place to cause issues, the world of perfo' chips are your oyster - so ive heard.

[jawk]

If ChipIts intention was that the sensor pipes be removed completely they wouldn't bother welding the spigots in for them to screw into......

I reckon the intention was to have it as like-for-like as possible for an unknown audience. More plug n play.

y'know, 2 pipes off = 2 pipes back on; 1 sensor off = 1 sensor back on etc etc.

[Merts]

I reckon the intention was to have it as like-for-like as possible for an unknown audience. More plug n play.

y'know, 2 pipes off = 2 pipes back on; 1 sensor off = 1 sensor back on etc etc.

You're probably right.

I agree $450 is pretty good value, and most exhaust places get very nervous about modifying anything to do with an emission system.

That said, the thing really should just bolt on without having to bend brackets etc, and some simple instructions about looping the flexible sensor pipes and removing the solid ones could be included with the pipe.

[Rich]

If ChipIts intention was that the sensor pipes be removed completely they wouldn't bother welding the spigots in for them to screw into......

True, but no brackets to support annoying pipes.

Nothing is perfect I suppose.

I guess leaving with the spigots and pipes make it easier to put the DPF back if required.

Rich

[Merts]

Just to be clear, while I've had a bit of a whinge about the bracket issue, spacer requirement and lack of instructions......

I am extremely happy that the DPF light doesn't come on every two or three weeks which was happening pre race pipe.

So, thanks ChipIt. Well worth the effort IMO.

[Rich]

Just to be clear, while I've had a bit of a whinge about the bracket issue, spacer requirement and lack of instructions......

I am extremely happy that the DPF light doesn't come on every two or three weeks which was happening pre race pipe.

So, thanks ChipIt. Well worth the effort IMO.

Merts,
The jury is still out for me, but moving in the same direction.

If nothing else I have got rid of the annoying sound wher those pipes were scraping on the DPF, mind you I could have done that any way

I did another test run today and it was positive. I guess I was worried about and concentrating on the problem yesterday. The car is a lot quieter.

I believe the car is a hit more responsive, I often found it would lag a bit going around a corner or when starting up. I don't take off like a jet rocket but take off
a bit smoother.

Re fuel economy the test I did was not conclusive but it did point to a slightly better performance.

Ie if you believe the guage in the pajero. My scangauge figures like way out as I know the one in the pajero is close.

Any way today is good, better than yesterday, may try the blanking plate next

[Angry]

by the way - $450 is not "too" badly priced if you compare it to obtaining all the parts yourself then paying someone who can weld properly to do the work. Esp' when talking stainless...

Also, the temp sensor spigot is not a off the shelf size so you'll also need someone to make one for you.

Unless you know an exhaust place personally (ie. Mutual trust) it would be verrrry difficult to get an exhaust place to do the job from go to whoa (some legal issues - apparently!)

(no affliliation etc etc - i dont even have a chip-it pipe...)

also - with no dpf in place to cause issues, the world of perfo' chips are your oyster - so ive heard.

x 2 !!

[Wrex]

It was my DPF they used as a Jig totally stock standard.

There is a MMA fix for an exhaust rattle up near the original DPF I had it done to my car 2yrs ago. It was for the DPF exhaust hanger closest to the passenger side of the car, so tolerances are tight (too tight IMO) OEM.

As said get rid of the tubes altogether just bridge the two rubber hoses that the pressure sensor pipes run into.

As the pipes fit into the 2 rubber tubes there is no real need to have another bracket for the pipes (similar to the action of a rubber exhaust hanger).