Hi to all, stupid question time. I have read various threads on the removal and replacement of fuel filter, and had a crack at it today. I feel stupid asking this,and i'm sure it is a simple answer, but.... I have disconnected the grey plug attached to the metal bracket, water sensor?, to allow removal of filter without removing from firewall, but was unable to remove this from the bracket. It is attached to the metal bracket, at the back of the plug. It looks like once pushed into the hole one way it can't be pushed back out. i tried for ages and almost cut it off. What's the trick? Hoping that someone will understand my ravings thanks...
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help with removal of fuel filter on NT Paj please.
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Mate,
the easiest way to replace the filter is to disconnect the hoses & unbolt the bracket from the firewall.
Its simple & there is nothing to worry about & its easier to work on at the bench.
Dont forget to smear a little oil on the new rubber seal of your new filter before you tighten it up.
Steve2009 NT VRX, Rear Battery Pack, 18" Bridgestone D-697, SPVi EGR mod, BushSkinz Intercooler & Sump Plates. BOO's Transmission & Transfer Case Plates. GME 3550, HID HB's and 22"LED Bar, Pioneer Avic F80DAB Audio/Coms/Nav system MM4x4 TC Lockup Mate. & 1/2 tank of Diesel
Pretty Stock but very Capable
Wish List: ARB Deluxe Bar & Winch, Snorkel, Diff Breathers, & 1/2 tank of Diesel
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Thanks for the response mate. I did think about doing this, but it still won't fix the issue i have, which is removing the plug from the metal bracket, without damaging the back of the plug, that inserts through a hole. As i said, it must be simple, or do people just cut it off and ziptie it back in place. All suggestions welcome, thanks.
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This is what I did yesterday. First you might make a mess so have some rag under the filter. release the clip that supports the wiring to the warning light switch(on RHS of support bracket looking at it, use pliers you may not need to do this part if your wiring is long enough). Remove hoses, remove the two bolts, ( to reduce the mess I fitted a hose to the drain tap and drained filter out to a tin under the vehicle) .Then loosen the big white plug at the bottom of filter and holding the plug, undo the filter and housing from the plug and wiring assembly leaving wiring still attached. Replace filter and re assemble. Refit inlet and pump filter primer until a clear flow of diesel flows from outlet, continue pumping as you refit outlet hose so that there is no air in system. When priming filter I used a short hose fitted to outlet to catch diesel. This is what i did and it worked for me. But if you dont get all the air out more bleeding of the system may be needed. Some one else maybe able to help here. Hope this helps.
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Once again, i appreciate the response, but removing this clip is the only issue i have. It won't fit back through the hole it is inserted in. This is the part that beat me. The rest of the process i'm ok with. I just didn't want to damage this unneccesarily, and i'm sure there must be a trick to getting it to go back through that hole. It's got till tomorrow before the stanley knife gets a workout
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The clip you are talking about has a push in lug on one side. Push this in and the clip pulls out of the hole. Its a pita to see. IIRC, last time I got some needle nose pliers onto the rear of the plug, which pushed the tab in and voila. Once you have it out, you will see what I mean.
And yep, IMO, pulling the complete filter head off the firewall is easiest, but I have a dual battery there, which accounts for some of that.MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.
My Journeys
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Well...... job done. Thanks for the help all. It turned out i wasn't as stupid as i thought. The plastic clip was damaged slightly which stopped it coming back through that stinking little hole. I ended up taking it off the firewall and then could see the problem, so it's sorted for next time, all the best.
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Im pretty sure when I did mine, all I did was unclip it from the bottom of the filter, & left it hanging. Ive only done it once but I dont recall any probs.
Steve2009 NT VRX, Rear Battery Pack, 18" Bridgestone D-697, SPVi EGR mod, BushSkinz Intercooler & Sump Plates. BOO's Transmission & Transfer Case Plates. GME 3550, HID HB's and 22"LED Bar, Pioneer Avic F80DAB Audio/Coms/Nav system MM4x4 TC Lockup Mate. & 1/2 tank of Diesel
Pretty Stock but very Capable
Wish List: ARB Deluxe Bar & Winch, Snorkel, Diff Breathers, & 1/2 tank of Diesel
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Hi there,
those filters can "suck" onto their sealings / O-rings pretty tough.
best way to remove the filter without lots of hassle is using a universal filter removing tool.
There are lots of different on the market, depending on how much space you have you have to choose the right tool (as always)
I prefere the chain lever tool, it has the best grip and never failed
If space is tiny there are som locking filter tools on the market.
(the one I show here with the tripple arm)
If youre stingy, just use a good tie down belt, tie it tight to the filter and wrap around some belt to a lever (screwdriver f.e.) put the tip of the lever under the wrapped belt to the filter and loose it carefully.
But I recommend decent tools, improvised stuff is just for emergencies and amateurs
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I don't remove the bracket just unscrew the filter. Can't get enough grip so put on washing up gloves (last time was pink) and this gives me enough grip to remove the filter by hand. Then once out use my plumbers wrench to remove the water alert attachment.
Not pretty but works every time. Tighten the new fuel filter by hand - no gloves!07 NS DiD GLX Manual, Alloy Bullbar, 2" lift, Bilstein shocks, King Springs, Kumho MT51, Oricom UHF088, Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard, Boo's Sump and Tansmission Bash Plates
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