I have an 89 SWB I only use for trail riding and rock climbing. I do not have LSD and need to lock up my differentials. I plan on welding them and adding manual hubs on the front so I can unlock to steer when not climbing. I know lockers are available but spending $1000 (US) each would quadruple the cost of this off-road only rig Has anyone done this or have suggestions?
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Has anyone welded their differentials
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If you do, it will be a bugger to drive on a wet bitumen road.
Geoff03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.
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Here’s where the problem starts...
Not much travel so it needs traction on all corners.Attached Files
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Have you ever driven anything with welded diffs? I have and would I’d be worried about breaking things when trying to turn on high traction surfaces (like the rocks in your photo).Silver NT VRX Di-D
ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches
My Build Thread - HERE
Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')
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Originally posted by geopaj View PostHave you ever driven anything with welded diffs? I have and would I’d be worried about breaking things when trying to turn on high traction surfaces (like the rocks in your photo).
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Originally posted by spot01 View PostHave you tried the technique of using the handbrake partly on to slow the spinning rear wheel?
Unsure if something similar can be done for the front?
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Pajeros have been doing that as well since the early 2000’s.
Don’t weld your front diff, I have a front air locker and i certainly would not want it locked all the time1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...
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Have run a welded diff in a club rally car. Not sure I would want that in a 4wd. Even if it is for rock crawling. Better off teaching yourself to left foot brake. The human equivalent of traction control.
Having a welded front diff would be a pain in the butt, having to lock and unlock the front hubs continuously imo.09 ML GLX-R 3.2L Manual. Bushskinz bash plates, 285/75x16 Kumho MT51 & 16x8 alloys, 3" exhaust, Dobinson MRR 2"lift, MCC Bar and Wheel Carrier, 12000lb ICM winch, Dual Batteries, Billet Turbo compressor upgrade, Brown and Davis LR tank.
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So I don’t know how to upload the videos I have but this pic may give an idea of the violence the drivetrain takes with the speed it takes to make these off camber climbs with open diffs... I’m gonna gamble and at least weld the rear up in the next few weeks and will let y’all know how it turns out....Attached Files
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Welded rear
I just got me rear end back today. It was easy to weld solid based on the square bracket that comes stock in the spider gears of the rear differential. Check out the pic. This rig is so short and light that I can’t image huge negative effects. I’ll update progress for trail and road performance.
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Update
So got her put back together and finally got back out on the trails... making tight turns , even in two wheel drive, you will tear up the grass or leave rubber on the concrete... so if you drive on the road much I would not recommend ( as others stated). Now on the dirt/rock trails, this is a whole new vehicle! I was able to idle up hills and through rock gardens that I could only before barely get up at high speeds. I probably won’t weld the front because I see just how much this would bind the drivetrain making turns in 4x4. This is a definite mod to be considered if you have open rear differential with a rig only used for off-road.
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Weldy in the back would rock.
Front not so much...
I welded the front diff in a Ranger for a mate, when he stripped the side gears and spiders. Turned it into a weapon, but he had to shift to 2wd to steer, unlocking the axle actuator.
Unfortunately, the axle actuator promptly died putting him back to 3wd...
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Torn.. need help
So my Gen 1 has been amazing at climbing since I welded the rear. I still need more on the front end but can’t justify the price of an air locker and trying to listen to the advice of not welding front... can anyone point me to a reasonably priced locker for the front of a gen 1 ? I believe it is 28 spline based on what I read here. I am so close to just welding it but wanted to seek any additional advice. Thanks in advance!
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