Dyno results & other bits

[P K]

Hi all, I'm pretty new to here but have done a few post & read for awhile before joining. Last week I had my Paj lifted at L&S suspension here in darwin. I got dobinsons/tough dog front & dobinsons/bilstein rear, also had rear lower trailing arm bushes done. Unfortunately measured from arch to floor.
FL 846mm => 920mm & arch to lower rim 792.3
FR 836 => 914 & to rim 793
BR & BL 860 => 933 & 932 & both to rim 810. I'm very happy with the results, except for didn have the billies for the front.

Now for the dyno. Ive tried to attach the report graph, so will c if it works. It was a Roo system remap, through an authorised seller here in Darwin. Id been given a previous remap & exhaust result from Roo systems in Brisbane & it looked impressive. Extra 45hp at the rear wheels @ about 80km. From what I understand of the graph, from 350ftlb to 520ftlb @ about 59km, pretty steady rise/falls. I had my 3" full Lukey exhaust installed few weeks back prior to dyno. My HP on dyno yesterday went from 149.1 => 177.6 @ about 120km. not a steady graph with a few jumps and drops. Definetly a lot more responsive of the block and through the range, I'm happy with that. Now if my image comes through you will see that (from what I believe) the torque goes from 255ish to 280ish @ over 100km!! Whether at the rear wheels or fly wheel, this still cant be right (I'm not well versed on the gain/losses between rear & fly). With work I was unable to get through to the mechanic here (my misses actually collected the car for me). Ill phone them again tomorrow. So I got through to Roo systems and explained the results and wanted to know how it differed so much from what I was to expect? I was told cars don't perform as good with the humidity/heat up here, I know this but it wouldn't explain over 240ftlb torque difference between the remap the provided and the 1 I received. I was told the shop here does not have a full 4wd dyno but Roo systems do? Then how are they to do the Roo systems remap properly? They asked for me to send the results to them which I did earlier today, so hopefully I get answers tomor of whats going on, especially due to the price! I was also advised to have the intake manifold cleaned by Roo systems prior to have the remap done, when I first spoke to them a few weeks back. I looked at doing with a mate but decided just to run 2 repco cleaner cans through it and leave to the experts, as from what I could see the cans did nothing, & I did not want to risk the job myself. I asked if they would check the tappets and do the intake manifold clean, keep the car & do the dyno the following day. I called the first morning to see what was happening and was told that they did not have the proper tools for the tappets & would be too expensive for me to get them to do it, they said they sounded fine though, also that the intake didn look that bad, so they just blasted it with 2 cans ( the same as I did I reckon). I was told that to remove & clean the intake was a massive job, obviously & thats why I said keep it the extra day & get it done before the dyno. Happy they said it did need to be done but unhappy because I wanted it done as car has 110km's & when the misses collected the car, she was told to tell me to run the cans through the intake every 10k's.

Hopefully tomorrow everything will be cleared up.

I've also noticed leaking around nuts & seal on the sump. I was told it only looked very minor & to clean, tighten & see how it goes.

I hope this does not put people to sleep haha

Cheers,
Paul.

[Poita]

That remap looks appalling. The guy that did my Legnum took a lot of care to try to smooth the curves out which meant it was a lot nicer to drive.

[P K]

sorry took a bit to reply. A Roo systems got his tuning guys to take a look at the results and they were happy with the percentage increases. Still can't explain about the torque, only that I've more now than I started with.

[nj swb]

Looking at the road speed scales, yours was done in a higher gear = less torque at the wheels.

[bacon]

I only have faith and in hub dynos . You can make a rolling dyno tell you anything you want
Going by your remarks at the bottom of your post the mechanic should get a job at MM

[twisted32]

That remap looks appalling. The guy that did my Legnum took a lot of care to try to smooth the curves out which meant it was a lot nicer to drive.

And I am sure he will do the same with my NW😉

[Mcreight911]

Don't get hung up on the numbers the back to back increase is what u should be looking at . Different dynos run in different modes will give skewed torque readings . As long as both runs were done in the same mode the % increase will be correct . 10% increase in torque seems low thought. How does it drive ?

[Poita]

And I am sure he will do the same with my NW😉

Jealous. Can't wait to see the results!!

[twisted32]

Jealous. Can't wait to see the results!!

Steve has to do a flex tune on the Leggy first. Hopefully both will be done by the end of the year.

Back on topic, P K, looking at the two graphs, it looks like the Roo Systems example dyno sheet is an auto (hence the huge torque multiplication at low RPM), and yours is manual (by the way it mirrors the power graph).
At the end of the day, a dyno graph is just a reference, ie look at the before and after of yours on the same dyno, same operator, and day (ie atmospheric conditions). You don't have anything to worry about in regards to a low torque number, or you wouldn't have a reasonable power figure since Power is directly proportional to Torque & RPM

[P K]

Cheers for the reply's all. I called into the Mech when I was off work at the beginning of the week and he explained a lot of the contributing factors to me. He was a bit pissed off that I was given a dyno sheet, as a guide without been told when it was done, how old pajero, how many K's, manual or auto etc.

I've got the auto model and the mech said the spike late on was due to transmission, gear change if I'm correct. On the non linear he stated he could make it look linear and print out, but its still the same. There should be no noticeable difference in power within a gear (spikes). He said its the percentage increase they were looking for with regards torque and HP, as in similar increases, to what I started with. I reckon if they did the soot clean, like I wanted, I would have got more of an increase, a job for another day when I learn how to. All in all, yes there is more power and quicker off the mark, as a little test on the misses phone, 0-100 in 9.5sec in Darwin heat so I'm pretty happy with that Need to get in some low range tomorrow and see how she goes.

[grhyso]

I spoke to a few companies in depth about remapping at the perth 4wd show this weekend and Roo Systems did seem to know quite alot about the Pajeros. The only thing i was not impressed with was they don't run it on a dyno in perth, just send the remap to the company here and they load it onto the ecu.

Please keep us updated on your experience. I am mainly chasing low down acceleration as the paj is a bit of a slug around town at lights etc with the big tyres, and better fuel economy. Which tune did you go for, economy, tourer or whatever they call it?

[ed84]

That remap looks appalling. The guy that did my Legnum took a lot of care to try to smooth the curves out which meant it was a lot nicer to drive.

I miss my Regnum. Steve tune yours?

Edit: I just stalked you on ozvr4 - pretty sure we've met before

[Poita]

I miss my Regnum. Steve tune yours?

Edit: I just stalked you on ozvr4 - pretty sure we've met before

Yeah he tuned mine twice. Initial tune found the limits of the factory clutch, so had a HD one installed and got it redone when he came back to Adelaide. Was a beautifully smooth car. Sorely missed, my wife was disgusted about how upset I was when I sold it!

Yeah I am pretty sure we have met. But then my memory sucks big time :P

[P K]

hey all, been awhile. I went for the remap standard one, tourer I think. From what I remember, before the full 3" exhaust, SPV module and the remap I was getting much better fuel economy. All the above cost about $3400. I"m around 75-83lts (the most I noticed) for 600km or less. I live in Darwin, so traffic is not an issue but I have been doing a mixture of short to medium runs. As I said before, on the misses phone stop watch, 0-100 is about 9.5secs down from 11's. Turbo lag is greatly reduced and welcomed. I do have a bit of a heavy foot but not terrible. It is noticeable and sounds nice also. I'm a bit dubious as to whether there was just an increase in fuel injection, as it blows some light black with acceleration.

Any other questions just as, I am quite busy with work and everything becomes a chore when i get home, so reply's can be immediately or a week haha.

A question for anybody really. In need of a new set of tyres. My wrangler A/T's, haven't gone 20K and were put on new when I bought the paj, i was told, they did look new though. I've been told the worst 1 has about 5k's or less, don't bother off road (wet season up here) I was told by a dealer. The tyres are fairly down. I've spoke to opposite lock/L&S suspension, as they did my lift a few months back. For the pro comp (their brand?) AT's fitted and balanced $400 per tyre or the pro comp muddies at $500 per tyre. Now Ive seen ppl post about 250 for the bridgestone D697's and others. So is it just Darwin prices or are the Pro Comp a lot better? What would peoples opinions be? I'm not too fused on the money I just want a good solid tyre, bigger or as big as can go, Aggressive AT's or similar. Going down a short trip to the kimberley easter weekend so would like to have fitted by then, also some camping set up, as I've not really done any, just fun out bush and fishing