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Lets start with the fact my vehicle has a heavily modded front end the list includes (but is not limited to) diff drop, modified Upper control arms, modified lower control arms 3" of lift..... blah blah blah. The result is I have an easy 11" of travel over the stock 7" or so.
Now I was slack with my wagon and ran my left front CV with a split boot for a tad too long and it shagged my CV joint and I started down the path of replacing it. Working at a location that has trade acc's with several suppliers I did the ring around. here is the results
Mitsubishi $890 ex japan with at least 10 week lead time
Veals $175 in stock GSP brand
Bursons $200 instock GSP brand
Repco $125 in stock Repco brand.
results on my rig
Repco brand CV's bind up the moment there is any angle on them
GSP brand bind up as I approach full extension of my shock (about 30mm from full extension)
Mitsi - well they work fine I am just not waiting 10 weeks or paying that BS price.
I have since thrown the repco one in the bin (they refused to take it back even after going for a ride - their answer too modified, mine not suitable for the purpose, I dont really care in the end
The GSP one has blown itself to bits
and until yesterday I have been unable to find a Gen 2 one second hand that has not had a split boot and is potentially stuffed - wreckers dont like removing them to be told I wont take it because its FUBAR - been down that road as well.
Final result
Gen 3 - the inner CV on the Gen 3 is very similar to the Gen 2 in fact here is how to mount a gen 3 CV onto the Gen 2 shaft (shaft of choice was a 3.5Dohc one from the 8" diff).
these parts are what I have used off the Gen 3 shaft - look for wear in the holes of the cage (the arrow shows wear on this one that has been removed) also look for flat spots on the bearings and ruts in the groves of the green cup
this part has to come off the Gen 2 shaft - ironically the gen 3 has a smaller diameter spline - look for wear in the notches where the bearings sit, any wear is likely to cause grief however I have found this to be the part that wears the least on all the genuine shafts I have gone over
Mount it all together - I found that the worn CV pretty much fell apart, the good one I needed to gently pop the Bearings out of the cage with a medium flat screwdriver and tap them back in again with the plastic handle. I also found the whole assembly came out of the Cup very easy on the worn unit and was a good snug fit on the replacement.
I spent $100 on a good whole gen3 CV shaft from a guy who wrecks Pajero's and now have a good CV in my Gen 2.
I cant say if it will work with a diesel CV joint and I am pretty sure it wont work with the 3.0 manual shaft (also 8" but has a smaller diameter CV) but both these have the same splines as the one I used and can have the 3.5 one used in their place.
I hope this helps some one else out.
Now I was slack with my wagon and ran my left front CV with a split boot for a tad too long and it shagged my CV joint and I started down the path of replacing it. Working at a location that has trade acc's with several suppliers I did the ring around. here is the results
Mitsubishi $890 ex japan with at least 10 week lead time
Veals $175 in stock GSP brand
Bursons $200 instock GSP brand
Repco $125 in stock Repco brand.
results on my rig
Repco brand CV's bind up the moment there is any angle on them
GSP brand bind up as I approach full extension of my shock (about 30mm from full extension)
Mitsi - well they work fine I am just not waiting 10 weeks or paying that BS price.
I have since thrown the repco one in the bin (they refused to take it back even after going for a ride - their answer too modified, mine not suitable for the purpose, I dont really care in the end
The GSP one has blown itself to bits
and until yesterday I have been unable to find a Gen 2 one second hand that has not had a split boot and is potentially stuffed - wreckers dont like removing them to be told I wont take it because its FUBAR - been down that road as well.
Final result
Gen 3 - the inner CV on the Gen 3 is very similar to the Gen 2 in fact here is how to mount a gen 3 CV onto the Gen 2 shaft (shaft of choice was a 3.5Dohc one from the 8" diff).
these parts are what I have used off the Gen 3 shaft - look for wear in the holes of the cage (the arrow shows wear on this one that has been removed) also look for flat spots on the bearings and ruts in the groves of the green cup
this part has to come off the Gen 2 shaft - ironically the gen 3 has a smaller diameter spline - look for wear in the notches where the bearings sit, any wear is likely to cause grief however I have found this to be the part that wears the least on all the genuine shafts I have gone over
Mount it all together - I found that the worn CV pretty much fell apart, the good one I needed to gently pop the Bearings out of the cage with a medium flat screwdriver and tap them back in again with the plastic handle. I also found the whole assembly came out of the Cup very easy on the worn unit and was a good snug fit on the replacement.
I spent $100 on a good whole gen3 CV shaft from a guy who wrecks Pajero's and now have a good CV in my Gen 2.
I cant say if it will work with a diesel CV joint and I am pretty sure it wont work with the 3.0 manual shaft (also 8" but has a smaller diameter CV) but both these have the same splines as the one I used and can have the 3.5 one used in their place.
I hope this helps some one else out.
.. 
MITZY . 97 NL 3.5 GLS AUTO (Formally owned by geopaj
)__ Snorkel ,2 Uniden Uhfs , Roof Console, 2"lift, TT Suspension, Dual bat, Redarc System, BFG KO2's All Terrains, 55L sub tank, Pioneer sound, Milford cargo barrier, Extractors, SS exhaust, Rear camp light, Free Wheel Hubs, Improved Rear Storage unit, Alarm, Led interior lamps... 
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