Another Rear Storage Unit

[Pushbike]

Another Rear Storage Unit


The following design is for a MY17 NX GLX.
After I recently purchased my first 4WD I was fortunate to discover this forum. I have used the various postings to guide me in the design and construction although I think there is enough difference to warrant this posting. I thank all those who have gone before.


The Design:
My reason for building a storage system was based on the following:
I am a single user of the vehicle.
I want a vehicle only camping setup.
I want easy access to the stuff carried in the back.
The storage system can be easily installed and removed by one person.
The factory finish of the vehicle is preserved.
The removal of the third seat assembly.
Be able to reinstate the second seat assembly easily in an “emergency”.
The first “law” of storage is that for a given volume the introduction of a storage system reduces the available storage space. So you accept utility over capacity. The second law is “she’ll fill it to capacity and want more” hence this design is for a single person.
One particular posting made use of Bunnings Connect It aluminium square hollow section. I realised that I had a large table salvaged from a road side clean up in a spare room that could be repurposed. This table frame was constructed of an almost identical al. sq. hollow section except that the frame sections were connected using diecast fittings. I also used some plastic fittings from Bunnings.
Using a legacy version of AutoCad, repeated measurements of the rear storage area, selection of various storage containers and hardware I drew up a guide for the construction, cutting lists and drawings.
The design nominally occupies the space from the back of the second row seats to the rear door to a height of the second row seat belt storage clips. It also has a hinged panel that extends the top area forward which is supported by two hinged legs. This requires the second row seats to be folded.
I am fortunate in that besides Bunnings there is a local Bomond, a trade and retail supplier of fasteners, and Bills Board Factory for the supply and cutting of wood sheet materials.



Materials List

Aluminium square hollow section, nominal 1”/25.4mm.

These sizes are dependent on the type of joiner used. Refer to AutoCad drawing (avail on request).

Length mm x quantity

619.6 x1

413.4 x1

584.2 x1

377.8 x1

998 x2

840 x2

385 x2

448.5 x4

450 x4

120 x4

645 x2

175 x2


Plywood 12mm 1200 x 2400 CD grade x 2 off.

Plastic angle 50 x 50 x 3metre.

T nuts 3/16 Whit. x 60 off.

Screws 3/16 Whit. x 38mm x 60 off.

Turnbuckles 5mm S.S. x 2off

D shackles 5mm Galv. X 2 off

Wire eye strap S.S. x 2 off

Drawer slides “King” 600 mm x 3 sets.

Plastic Bin “Allset” 390 x 790 x 155 x 2 off.

Plastic Bin “Allset” 380 x 520 x 240 x 2off.

Table folding 600 x 800 x 1off.

Plastic Connect It angle joiners x 4 off.

Plastic end caps x 10 off.


Paint Dulux Weathershield “Slate Grey”

Miscellaneous case handles,slide bolts, screws, nuts, pop rivets, washers, metal plates and angle, plastic sheet and cord.




Autocad DWG
Available on request.


The Frame
Built in two sections to enable assembly in vehicle.




Plywood panels
I used 12mm CD grade plywood sourced from Bills Board Factory cut to drawing for minimum waste. Plywood has received 2 or 3 coats of Dulux Weathershield. My previous experience is that plywood absorbs moisture and then sweats, depositing water on metal parts causing corrosion.

To view the plywood cutting diagrams go to post #12





Storage Unit_6304.v01.jpg

**Note: I've tried to update the two pdf files at the above links but for some reason this sites html translator is screwing them up?? The first and third work the second doesn't.

Storage containers
Several storage containers were considered and their dimensions used to create “overlays” on the AutoCad drawing.
These containers are fastened to the slide boards using 3/16Whit. screws and T nuts. Each screw is isolated from the plastic container by a neoprene washer. This washer absorbs some of the physical shock that may impact on the base of the plastic container. The containers selected are quite economical and are therefore not very robust.

Note that I removed the roller wheels before fitting the containers to the drawer slide boards.
Each drawer slide mechanism, two per drawer assembly, is actually of two parts. The moving part and the fixed part. The drawer slide boards were constructed and fitted with the moving part of the drawer slides. The drawer slide boards were then "jigged up" to set the positioning of the fixed parts on the side and centre panels.
This a trial and error fiddle to get the drawer slide moving smoothly and having clearance above and below.
The whole storage unit was trialed on the "work bench" before disassembly and subsequent installation in the vehicle.


Storage Unit_6325.v01.jpg


3rd Seat storage well cover
I replaced the existing cover with a panel with two access holes and covers.

Storage Unit_6328.v01.jpg


Front “tiedown” board
I utilised the 3rd row seat fixing mounts to provide forward tiedown. Uses two 5mm steel U bolts with large plates and dome locknuts.

Storage Unit_6330.v01.jpg


Rear load board
A plywood strip spans the "floor" just inside the rear door sill. This strip, with the front tiedown board, takes the load of the storage unit and prevents punch through of the underlying floor cover(s). The storage unit has only 6 support, load bearing, legs.



Plastic sheet “Tub”
To protect the factory finish I used construction grade plastic sheet to form a tub. Hope this contains any accidental spillage, either wet or dry. Also is a barrier between between painted surfaces and factory finish.

Storage Unit_6332.v01.jpg




Installation 1.
The installation process is:
Install the forward tiedown board.
Install the seat well cover and rear load board.
Install the frame. The larger rear section goes in first by turning it sideways and passing it forward, raising it partly over the front seats and rotating it before bringing it back to the rear. Note the two side ply panels can be fitted prior to installation. Otherwise clamp the frame to allow install of side panels.

At the bottom of each frame leg I fitted a square plastic plug, part of the accessories available for the Connect It tubing system. Each plug was drilled and screwed in position on it's respective load board. This measure was used to stop the frame legs from "dancing" about due to vibration.

Storage Unit_6345.v01.jpg


Installation 2.
Take care not to hit the head lining. The front, smaller frame section is then passed through the rear passenger door and screwed in position. The two centre ply panels (double thickness) are then fitted by dropping them into position.
These centre panels are screw fastened, at each end, to two pieces of Al. angle pop riveted to the two centre legs.
The front bottom edge of the double centre panels are also screw fastened each side to two Al. angle brackets that span the front tiedown board.

Storage Unit_6347.v01.jpg


Installation 3.
The top ply panel is passed sideways through to the rear side door area and rotated over the front seats and then brought back to the rear for fixing.
All panel fixings are 3/16 Whit. “T” nuts with gutter screws(bolts), these screws have a Philips/slot head that is larger than a pan head screw. I also used dished spring washers to lock these screws. Many of the fixings are close to the plywood edge and I chose 3/16 Whit nuts to maximise the material around the nut hole.
I have also screw fastened 4 heavy duty case handles to the top of this panel to provide light load (bedding, easy chair) strapping tiedown.

Storage Unit_6348.v01.jpg


Installed ready to go 1.

Storage Unit_6355.v01.jpg


Installed ready to go 2.
The table can be used as shown or removed and set up away from the vehicle. The storage unit top surface also provides a very useful food prep area and casual storage area.

Storage Unit_6356.v01.jpg


Installed ready to go 3.
Large bins are for cooking gear etc.

Storage Unit_6357.v01.jpg


Installed ready to go 4.
The small bins are for dry food storage, utensils etc..

Storage Unit_6358.v01.jpg


Installed ready to go 5.
The front area is adaptable to store water, bulky food small esky etc.

Storage Unit_6359.v01.jpg


The right hand side, offside, lower area has a cradle for carrying two PVC tubes that contain awning poles. The left hand, near side, lower area is used to store the awning (fly), awning hardware and shovel. I haven’t decided what to store in the seat well other than a tool kit. Note: it is easy to remove the drawer units to access the seat well if that is required but normal access is via the covers with drawers in situ.

[Garc]

Great job! I love the use of plastic tubs for drawers.

[Pushbike]

Another rear Storage Unit

Garc/Gary
Thanks for your interest. I have posted several pics. One to show that I used neoprene washers salvaged off sheet roof fasteners. The plastic tub bottoms are not very robust and to provide a resilient interface between the tubs and the drawer slide board I inserted these washers. The screws fasten into T nuts on the slide board. The tubs cost about $5 at Bunnings and come with lids.

The other pics are of the front folding panel and the hinged support legs. Either or both these legs can be removed or folded up and stored while loading the forward area. The legs need to fold so that they don't hit / rip the head lining when folding the panel back.
I changed the folding action of the hinged panel legs so that they would fold down with less chance of fouling on gear stored under the panel.

Also I closed off the 3rd row seat hinge covers with blanking pieces made from the centre plastic caps that are fitted to ceiling sweep fans which are usually discarded when a central light fitting is attached. I used two round J box covers with these and a couple of 3/16 Whit. screws. I'm gradually working through my accumulated "junk" bits. I hardly ever throw away bits like the fan centre caps.
Go to my post on this thread for pics. https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum...ts#post1086510

image_37973.jpg image_37974.jpg IMG_0003.jpg IMG_0005.jpg IMG_0002.jpg IMG_0001.jpg IMG_0004.jpg IMG_0006.jpg

[028]

very professional build

[Jack ANT]

�� very nicely done.

[denmonkey]

like it. I'd prefer drawers but can see the benefit of being able to pull the tubs and move them about camp as required.

What was the rough cost?

[Pushbike]

Hi Denmonkey,
The plastic bins are fixed although the whole bin / slide assembly(s) can be easily removed. Being kept in the car keeps the contents dry and free of dirt leaves etc. The main drawback is that the rear doors get a bit of a work out.
The cost of construction was about $360 for purchased parts, plywood drawer slides bins screws T nuts turnbuckles ubolts etc and about say $40 for salvage/hoarded stock ex shed, screws washers, paint Al. tube.
So say all up cost $400.

The most expensive parts: 12mm plywood $120 cut to panel sizes. Drawer slides 3x $17 per set.

The Aluminium tube was salvaged and would cost about $8 /m to buy. Al. tube could be sourced from Capral but they have a minimum order which may end up more expensive then Bunnings. Many years ago Alcan would sell small quantities / offcuts etc and when taken over by Capral the min. order was applied, this about the time Bunnings arrived on the scene.

[denmonkey]

cheers PB.
I had checked out Capral before and found their per piece prices to be better but wasn't aware of the min order.
I'm considering using the connect it to build a basic removable bed platform and this seems like a good way to keep the weight down.

thanks for the info

[denmonkey]

went with Capral for my latest build.

No mention of a minimum order. The stuff I picked up was approx $150 for their qubelock.

4x 6m lenghts and connectors.

[Pushbike]

Hi Denmonkey,
Thanks for update on Capral, you certainly did well price wise. Longer lengths, less waste. All the best with your build.

[kblof]

Brilliant job Pushbike
Love the 3rd seat cut out, i may need to copy that template

[Pushbike]

Another Rear storage Unit

Hi kblof,
Seeing as you have been very complementary I have attached some more pics and a drawing of the cutout.
Note:
Material- CD grade 12mm ply
Check my dimensions before cutting.
That I did not cut out the access holes exactly to the drawing. I cut a diagonal across two of the corners to provide a "gusset".
I used a small hand power saw "drop down" method to cut out the hatch panels. If using this method take care as saw blade is exposed. Gave a nice clean cut out.
The rear edge is curved about 10mm depth across the width. I used a pencil on a string, with the panel on a table, to mark the arc. I'm not sure if this was checked against a cardboard template.
I strengthened each edge of the panel and also provided hatch cover rests with left overs scewed and glued.
If your only interested in the well cover that's all I think.
Otherwise I also cut out a "load" board that straddles the rear edge of the cover panel no drawings but can get the dimensions if required.
All the best with your build.

This addendum was necessitated by the 14 Attachment limit per post and I post here additional images etc. for the original post which has been updated due to a change the images etc. source.

Plywood sheet cutting diagrams.

I used 12mm CD grade plywood sourced from Bills Board Factory cut to drawing for minimum waste. Plywood has received 2 or 3 coats of Dulux Weathershield. My previous experience is that plywood absorbs moisture and then sweats, depositing water on metal parts causing corrosion.
Notes:
"T" refers to a top panel, T1,T2 became one panel. T3 is the hinged front panel
"W" refers to a side panel, W1,W2 are the outer panels and W3,W4 are back to back innner panels.
"S" refers to a drawer slide panel.

PAJERO1.gif
PAJERO1A.gif

[kblof]

Awesome thank you

[mattiusb]

went with Capral for my latest build.

No mention of a minimum order. The stuff I picked up was approx $150 for their qubelock.

4x 6m lenghts and connectors.

Was looking at this today, can't see any minimum order and a lot cheaper than bunnings although you have got to cut it yourself! Just not sure how I will get it home!!

Not sure what the difference between the qubelok and the hollow square tubing apart from half the cost.

[mattiusb]

Another Rear Storage Unit


The following design is for a MY17 NX GLX.
After I recently purchased my first 4WD I was fortunate to discover this forum. I have used the various postings to guide me in the design and construction although I think there is enough difference to warrant this posting. I thank all those who have gone before.
The Design:
My reason for building a storage system was based on the following:
I am a single user of the vehicle.
I want a vehicle only camping setup.
I want easy access to the stuff carried in the back.
The storage system can be easily installed and removed by one person.
The factory finish of the vehicle is preserved.
The removal of the third seat assembly.

This is such an inspiration that I am going to start my build. My use is very similar to yours except that we are 2 people and we don't need to be able to put the seats back in.

I may have some questions!......