NS & NT rear diff rear bushes

[Fox Shooter]

Just had to do these bushes in my paj overall not a hard job if you have the right tools, took me just on a hour to do.
One tool that is needed is a http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-27pc-...sAAOSwMgdX1kFy

With this kit makes life so much easier, also can be done with cradle and diff still in th car.

1. Unbolt the tail shaft from the diff and tie up out of the way.
2. Unbolt and remove the 1" bar/rod that goes underneath the diff.
3. Unbolt sway bar mounts of the chassis and let it swing down and disconnect the diff breather.
4. Unbolt diff from cradle and slowly let drop down onto the swaybar, may need to tie up the front to stop in from rolling forwards and down.
5. With the kit up get the right sized adaptors and all thread bolt. One adaptor has to be bigger than the bush diameter so the bush will fit when being pushed out. Also lube the bearings and thread as everyone knows these bushes can be very tight. Take note were the arrows on the bush are located.
6. Once the bushes are out clean the bush locating holes in the cradle and pre lube with a bit of inox, kroil etc.
7. Line up arrows on new bush to the same position as the originals were and with the above kit slowly push them in.
8. Job done just need to bolt diff, tail shaft, swaybar and 1" rod back in and all done.

Cheers
FS

[entropy]

Thanks Fox Shooter - this helps

[Alexhaynes]

Hi fox shooter did you use genuine Mitsubishi bushes to replace your damaged ones or did you go the superpro option?
Also if you don't mind me asking what did you pay for the new bushes.
Thanks,
Alex

[Fox Shooter]

Used genuine bushes and payed $65 ea through Kings Mits in Geelong. The passenger side and drivers side are different part numbers, don't know why as they both look the same.

[Alexhaynes]

That's a lot cheaper than the superpro bushes which are around $300. What was your symptoms that made you change them or were they just cracked?

[Fox Shooter]

$300 for superpro bushes god thats expensive, I got quoted $200 for both. I had to be replaced for rwc as the paj is sold. But the mechanic had no idea what he was really looking at, as the load carrying part and the buffer rubber were good. The only crack was in the thin rubber webbing between them which really does bugger all.

[lesseragitant]

good write up

[PradoEater]

Hey mate, I assume bushes got pressed out towards the back of the car?

[kiwi1973]

You don't really have to press the old bushes out. The new bushes are pressed in from the rear. My rear diff bushes came out easily by just removing the centre and using a reciprocating saw (you could just as easily use a hacksaw - disassemble to get through the bush) to cut through the metal outer shell of the bush and then a hammer and cold chisel will easily get the shell out - same process I use on all bushes.

I have the same bush/bearing press kit as the OP and agree it's really good for pressing new bushes in. Indeed, a kit like this is essential when trying to press a bush in in-situ.

Sounds like the OP didn't replace the bushes in the cross member at the front of the diff. I checked with Mitsubishi and they don't sell those bushes - they can get the complete cross member ex Japan at about $1,000, but even they said just get aftermarket bushes for the front. However, when I removed that front diff cross member I was surprised to find that the bushes looked totally fine, even though the rear diff bushes were totally shagged. Ordinarily it would have made sense to just go ahead and replace them whilst the cross member was out, but I sensed there would be some anguish getting those bushes aftermarket, as although they're the same physical size they are different rubber stiffness and (same as with the rear diff bushes) have a distinct left and right to adhere to - don't forget this!

One other thing to note. The job takes a fair bit longer if you are going to remove the front diff cross member for inspection, as the fuel tank has to be dropped (not totally removed - just loosened and lowered on a jack). Problem is, you can't really check the front diff bushes, which may be fine as mine were, without removing the cross member. When I tried to assess my front diff bushes in situ they looked broken to me and it wasn't until I had the cross member out for testing that I realised they were ok.

Overall though, the diff bush replacement job is straightforward and not that time-consuming. I mention this because occasionally it comes up on the forum that someone has been given an outrageous quote for this job, sometimes even told the entire sub-frame has to be removed from the vehicle etc.....

[Trisome]

Make sure you use the standard bushes, I put the nolathane bushes as I do a bit of towing.....big mistake. I had to hand out ear plugs for anyone in the 4B, and eventually changed them back to the rubber ones.

Trisome

[PradoEater]

Thanks kiwi for the reply I'm yet to fully investigate if they are really shot got a friend that is dying to try his makita reciprocating saw thou

[PradoEater]

Make sure you use the standard bushes, I put the nolathane bushes as I do a bit of towing.....big mistake. I had to hand out ear plugs for anyone in the 4B, and eventually changed them back to the rubber ones.

Trisome

What brand did u use? I was about to get nolathane rear kit bushes off ebay. Just bought one of those busy remover install kits

[kiwi1973]

Go easy with the reciprocating saw. They're pretty powerful and if you get too trigger happy you could find you've cut through more than the outer shell of the bush.

As I go about replacing bushes I use rubber as much as possible, not nolathane/polyurethane equivalents. Everyone you speak to has different ideas about this, but there is a train of thought that the suppleness inherent with rubber bushes (i.e. which guys who fit nolathane to their street cars are eager to eliminate) is actually beneficial to a 4wd vehicle. Nolathane may potentially be longer lasting, but most Pajero's won't need rubber bushes replaced much before about 200,000km's intervals - that's durable enough for me.

[PradoEater]

Thanks mate, had a quick look yesterday they seem ok to me seems that rubber is sort of compressed at the bottom. I'll need to get someone to shift between reverse and drive and see if there's excess movement

[Trisome]

Can't remember the name of them, however I remember the noise.

Trisome