22 inch Lightbar - 4WD Supercentre

[spot01]

Thanks guys,

I had the grill / snout / int. guard off last night and saw all of that, too easy
Just wasn't sure if there was somewhere else the nudge bar connected to behind the grill.

Planning on a couple of metal plates screwed in behind the bumper where the top mounts for the nudge bar are, and coming forward (will need to trim bumper / snout as required). That in conjunction with the bumper / snout should do it.

The trick re the 2 bolts you will put in the top bumper support bar is to reem out the plastic bumper to allow the bolt head/washer to sit down onto the metal & allow the grille to be replaced (note you only reem the plastic, not the metal - put a bit of board in between when reeming to avoid marking the metal).

[Jaster]

So just incase anyone else is wondering, I can confirm Pin1 is +ve, and Pin2 is -ve. Install pics are here

[Purdy]

So just incase anyone else is wondering, I can confirm Pin1 is +ve, and Pin2 is -ve. Install pics are here

Hi Mate,

How did the 22 inch lightbar from supercenter perform? Looking for a good cheap (hard to put those two words together!) lightbar of that size. Just picked myself up a ECB second hand nudgebar which I want to mount a llightbar onto.
Dont want to pay over $150 for a lightbar. I only do rural country driving and want to light up road ahead and sides.

Any body have any suggestions on lightbars under $150 for a 22inch size which perform well?

Cheers

[old Jack]

Maybe consider this;

https://www.stedi.com.au/22-cree-led-light-bar-120-watt-double-row-cree.html

I have not seen one in real life but the supplier and this lightbar get good reviews.

OJ.

[Purdy]

Maybe consider this;

https://www.stedi.com.au/22-cree-led-light-bar-120-watt-double-row-cree.html

I have not seen one in real life but the supplier and this lightbar get good reviews.

OJ.

Thanks OJ. Looks great. Wish it had slide-able bottom mounts but looks like you can buy a universal cradle to mount it too.

It states it comes with a wiring harness :
BONUS: QUICK FIT PLUG & PLAY Wiring Harness H4 & H3. Easy Connection High Beam. (Negative earth Vehicles Only) Included 12v Wiring Harness consisting of Deutsch connectors, 40A relay, Fuse and ON/OFF switch (4.8m total cable length)

Is the Pajero NT a Negative earth vehicle? Does it have H4 or H3 headlights. Haven't had to change any as yet.

[vladguan]

Thanks OJ. Looks great. Wish it had slide-able bottom mounts but looks like you can buy a universal cradle to mount it too.

It states it comes with a wiring harness :
BONUS: QUICK FIT PLUG & PLAY Wiring Harness H4 & H3. Easy Connection High Beam. (Negative earth Vehicles Only) Included 12v Wiring Harness consisting of Deutsch connectors, 40A relay, Fuse and ON/OFF switch (4.8m total cable length)

Is the Pajero NT a Negative earth vehicle? Does it have H4 or H3 headlights. Haven't had to change any as yet.

H9 high and H11 low I believe.

[Sam Pato]

Just ordered one for pick up. $44- including the wiring harness. I was going to just wire it up myself but $9- for the harness seemed not worth worrying about (try buying a rocker switch and a relay for $9-).

Hope it works OK.

Sam

[ticky]

I have been watching the 22" light bars from 4wd Supastore for a while. I bought one a while ago, but they have been getting cheaper.

I still havent fitted mine yet but I have installed most of the wiring harness. The specs on the web page when I bought mine said it was 7800 Lumins, Or something like that, I cant quite remember, but it was on sale for $104 with the harness. It also has Cree Leds.

Now they are about $35 for the lightbar but only 3918 Lumins & Phillips Leds, which I believe are still good Leds.

It's Buyer Beware.
I believe the things to look for are
Lumins - Higher the number, the brighter the light (In Theory)
Colour - I like between 5000K and 6000K (K=Kelvin, a measurement of heat /energy) <5000k is yellow, >6000K is Blue
IP Rating - IP is Ingress Protection and an IP68 is a protection from Solids like dust of 6 which is total protection and Liquid like water of 8, which is sealed against water ingress beyond 1 meter deep. IP68. While I would never want my light bar 1 meter below water, I would go for an IP68 or 67. If your Light bar is a meter under water it is probably not at the forefront of your mind.

Hope this helps the people that are not so sure about what all these things mean

Steve

[Sam Pato]

Ha ha.

That explains the price drop then

I'm mainly buying to replace the nasty SCA spotties the car came with that the wife always moans about (she's not keen on the 80's rally car look). For less than a case of Crownies I'm prepared to take a punt. I doubt it'll see a great deal of use (which is probably what they bank on) - hopefully it'll be fit for purpose if it ever does.

I'm also being sucked into buying an awning I'll never use too............$89............hard to resist.

Cheers


Sam

[Sam Pato]

I went to fit this up today and found that the take off connector/adapter for getting the power from the headlight bulb is a slightly different connector than the one on the car.

The pins on the car are slightly closer than the ones supplied with the wiring kit.

Has anyone had this issue / found a work around?

Anyone know what the spec for the headlight connector is so maybe I could buy some replacement connectors to replace the ones supplied?

Cheers


Sam

[green troll]

I've seen a few off these books w with broken mounts from corrugations

[Tuba]

Just for clarity, no opinions on any particular bars.

5000 is not yellow in the slightest. Its white, midday sunlight. Not the yellow sun, the light you see around you. 5500 is said to be midday sun but it depends on where on the planet you are as to what midday sunlight is, but anywhere from 5000-57000 is about right. But its white, no yellow, no blue. However, the hints of colour are not kelvin. They are hues (colour), and saturation (how much colour). Its another aspect of light that is confused with Kelvin. There is a relationship between them but they are different. A 5700k can be greenish, yellowish or reddish.

4300 is white, with some yellow but could also be toward pink. You would be less inclined to agree it was Halogen like if you got reddish, but in yellow its closest to good halogen bulbs.

Philips do make good LEDs as do Osram and a few others. Cree is just the most popular, and most successful LED maker. Its the Coke of LEDs. Be aware as with all things, China has copied at least one Cree LED. So while once upon a time a Chinese lightbar with Cree LEDs had Cree LEDs, its not necessarily so now.

At the lowest prices, either the BIN of the LED is garbage, hues etc. Or its probably fake.

Lumens ratings are bullcrap, its the total of the spec sheet for the LED times the number of LEDs. But thats the top BIN which matters a lot. ie: XML is capable of around 1000 lumens, in a top tier BIN. Most XML produced are not that top BIN as its a hit and miss process making LEDs. Cree rates the best XML at around 1000 at 3 amps. Many of these lightbars are lucky to be 1 amp so wont be anywhere near the number of LEDs x 1000 lumens. Its not actually 1000, its something like 980 or similar. And thats if its actually Cree. It gets worse if its a fake Cree LED.

Knowign it doesnt help you though, as none of the sellers have a clue whats inside what theyre selling.

[BruceandBobbi]

The 5,500 Kelvin for colour film was devised by the Eastman Kodak company way back when. It is the summer midday colour temperature in Rochester New York State where Kodak are based.

That's why filters were invented for lenses to convert the high 8,10 thousand and above Kelvin to 5,5000. Filters were also used to convert the lower Kelvin to 5,5000.

Most digital cameras these days auto correct the Kelvin.

A Kodak employee invented the first digital camera in the mid 70s.