MQ Chip and/or exhaust

[Cluless]

Has anyone out there done a chip and/or exhaust upgrade non their MQ?
I know Steinbauer do a chip with pretty good numbers but I am interested to know if it was really worth it or whether just doing the exhaust made sufficient benefit.

[BIGJEZ]

Mate stay away from rob at chip tune in castle hill. His 'work' on my MQ has just cost me about 3k to fix here in melbourne. Im seriously pissed off with him.

[littleriver]

Go straight for an Ecu remap ... MRT or Roosystems .. an exhaust will give you little benefit as dpf by law can not be removed ..

Best thing we ever did

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[deimos]

Steinbauer Diesel Chip is shit and stay away, I'll explain bellow.

Why modify:
You have 2 options as you said chip or remap, but 1st you need to ask yourself what do you want or expect out of it?
Is it for straight power increase? Is it for towing and you want more torque?

Exhaust:
Now to begin as mentioned above: "the exhaust will give you little benefit as DPF by law can not be remove". To elaborate on that in case you haven't done your research yet means:

Due to the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) which has been introduced on all late model diesels to reduces emissions (which "can" be removed but if caught besides failed roadworthy, uninsured, etc can result in fines excess of $15,000 NO JOKE).

So because of this the installation of an exhaust will give you no benefit in power increase at all, as it cannot be connected back all the way to the turbo.

It will however give you a great sound (if that's what you want) and will help reduce EGT (exhaust gas temps) ever so slightly but absolutely tiny and nothing really noticeable.
This has been proven as DYNO runs have been preformed with only an exhaust installed and tested.

Exhaust = besides good sound; no performance increase; very tiny EGT reduction; not worth the extra money; removing factory component that is under warranty for no viable benefit.

ECU Remap vs Chip:
So you have decided you want more power, more torque, more control over your engine, better throttle response, etc.

Simple answer is:
They both give you more power, torque and better fuel economy.

The chip is a plug and play component that tricks the factory computer (ECU) into believing what settings and parameters have been changed.

ECU remap is a change of the actual vehicle factory computer give more access to settings same as above but even down to telling say the windows to open say at 10kms/hr just to give a silly example as how much control they have.

Now they both have Pros and Cons and after countless research, speaking to industry professionals and even company founders I can tell you there are only 2 companies I would trust with my vehicle and even worth considering:

ECU remap: Roo Systems ( https://roosystems.com.au )

Chip: UniChip ( http://unichip.com.au )

The reason why is that both put you actual vehicle on the DYNO and specifically tune it to your individual needs taking into consideration your actual setup.
Every little bit that has already been modified will effect the final result for optimum results,
So before you even consider this its best you do all that you want engine wise before the remap/chip installation.
Meaning: snorkel, hard lines to inter-cooler over factory rubber, fuel pre filter, oil catch can, exhaust (if you really still want it), etc at minimum.
Obviously if you really want to go crazy and upgrade the inter-cooler, turbo, etc, etc $$$ then go for it and do it all then last is the chip/remap.

CHIP:
Most chips are just off the shelf files loaded onto the chip but not specific exactly to your individual vehicle. They are made as an 'across the board' file so tuning will not be custom and to your needs or to the harsh Australian conditions.
UNICHIP on the other hand as mentioned above is different as it is live tuned while your vehicle is on the dyno to specifically adjust the air/fuel ratios, throttle response, across the entire power curve through all the gears to get the exact optimum levels while still staying within the factory limits as to not damage the vehicle.
So they are tuning your vehicle LIVE while running on the dyno (but all they are really doing is adjusting those fuel to air ratios live at certain points)
It also gives you the options to load multiple tune files (5 max) that can be easily changed while driving on the fly by a push of a button.
This means you can have for example:

1. High rev / idle mode for when in park or neutral (as if your sitting there in neutral with your foot on the accelerator): good for when your solo and need to do things like winching; battery jump start; air compressor tire pump; etc.
2. Factory/ Economy Setting: Set to give you best economical fuel consumption while adjusting that initial throttle lag out (all us MQ Triton owners know and hate).
3. Hi Range / Towing Setting: For more torque down low and perhaps good for Hi Range off roading.
4. Low Range setting: high torque, less throttle response and more control for situations like soft sand, crawling speeds etc.
5. High Performance setting: great for that sudden increase of maximum power when wanting to overtake a road train, or if your heavy footed like me and just want the fastest possible vehicle you can get out of your fully loaded almost 3,000kg vehicle.

Other settings to consider are things like: full immobilizer setting (if your vehicle doesn't have one which the MQ does, but you may want turn the car on and heat it up, but its a pain to lock it or cant while you go back inside or pack up camp and don't want some thief to make off with it) as a hypothetical scenario. Or any other setting you may want.


Other gimmicks you can add to the UniChip that I can't really see the benefit in is a phone app so you can monitor and change settings from your phone. Besides showing off to your mates and playing around with the immobilizer setting, I don't see the point as your in the car driving when you want to change. Unless you install a system that you can start the vehicle from a remote, and turn on the AC then lock the immobilizer, like some new cars have but I got no idea about this (it sounds handy though) lol.


Another benefit is when you decide to change vehicles or sell it you can unplug the device and plug it into the new vehicle. It's then a matter of straight plug and re-dyno tune or change the connection the re-dyno tune. It still costs but the bulk of it is cheaper. Unless it's another Triton and then plug and go but I would still highly advice re-Dyno tuning as each vehicle is different despite the similarities.


Also if your scared when it comes to dealer service than simply unplug the unit before service and plug back in after. This is also handy if by some 1% chance the system fails and your in 'limp' mode than you can unplug it and everything is as it was from factory.


Technically it is untraceable once removed but you just never know, best way to be 100% sure is have a scan tool so you can plug it in once removed and check if any fault codes pop up and then just wipe the fault codes.



Pros:

• Live tuned engine management
• extra ECU added to the vehicle
• once removed can not be traced
• does not affect the factory ECU or wiring in any way
• multiple 'on fly' tuned files to choose from for different scenarios
• can unplug and revert to factory settings anytime with no footprint
• transferable from vehicle to vehicle
• 3yr unlimited km warranty

Cons:

• cost around $2,000 with no exhaust
• its still a device that lies to the factory ECU

ECU Re-Map:
As explained above Roo Systems is the only ECU remap you should be considering. Besides the tuning benefits same as the chip (without the multiple tunes), you can tap right into the factory settings and change them. This means there is more options in the extent of manipulation the can preform as there is no 'middle unit' between the signal and the engine like a plug in chip. The result is less 1 thing that can up but if the tune does up then your royally ... lol.

They all say we back it up with warranty and its never had issues but everything in life has flaws and anything could happen, such is life.

In order for them to tune it what they do is almost trail and error. They do a Dyno run, take the read out, make certain adjustments, load the new file, do another dyno run and compare the results.
Then repeat, tweak the file and reload.
Then repeat over and over again until they are happy.
It's not LIVE tuning as the Unichip but they claim its a sure method for them.
Now if you live outside Brisbane (Roo Systems HQ) than what your "Authorised Dealer" will do is Dyno run the vehicle, send the results to Brisbane, wait for a reply from their tech up there to make the changes, then it is sent back to your guy who will load it, run it, test it and so on and on.

If you take your vehicle to the dealer mechanic and they preform a check on the ECU or decide to flash tune and update the firmware for any reason you will loose your tune and all is wiped. There is also a fear of them noting this on file and trying to fight you and voiding your warranty in the future. They may or may not win but you will be up for a fight.
Roo systems do offer a simple reload of your tune free of charge if it is wiped (as they store your specific tune on file for this rainy day) but what an inconvenience.
They do back it up with a warranty of your vehicle and driveline but that is only for the duration of the new car warranty or 1yr if the warranty is expired; and warranty of 5yrs but only on defects preforming their tuning service.
They do say they back it up and guarantee no issues will result from the re-tune and if you do have engine issues than the factory warranty will cover this; but I'm sure if for what ever reason you blow an engine or whatever than you will be fighting both the manufacturer and Roo Systems to get someone to cover it as they both will try and find a way out of it. So be careful.

Pros:

• full root access system management manipulation
• 1 file loaded, tuned: set and forget
• if you have a long new car warranty 5yrs or extended than technically you should be still covered by Roo Systems
• slightly cheaper than UniChip at around $1,700

Cons:

• only one file to choose from
• can not be unplugged to return to factory settings
• traceable by service department
• must be re-loaded if mechanic wipes it
• only 1yr warranty on your vehicle if factory warranty expired; meaning if you only have a few months left of new car warranty then you best wait till after that expires and still your only getting 1 yr.
• your trusting the technician to tamper with your factory computer.
• If your not physically in the Roo Systems HQ (Brisbane) than your relying on the info to be correct back and forth.

Conclusion:
They both have pros and cons and it comes down to your personal choice after your own research. Do your research and don't just take mine or anyone else word for it. I personally have spent hours on my own research any for me my personal choice after saving up is the UniChip. Mainly due to the selection options and the rest of its PROS.


End of the day depending which way you swing if you stick to either of only these 2 brands than you will be right. They both have the experience and years of R&D, so best stay clear of others out there.


Side note: after speaking to the Roo System boys directly in person even they say the UniChip is the best chip possible on the market, as even they have used it before, they obviously for there own reasons prefer the re-map. (or do they??? lol)

Good luck and I hope this helps.

[Stoneman]

I believe unichip and roo systems are fairly close and look after and help each other
Good right up

I'm a unichip fan with great gains and better fuel economy to go with it

[littleriver]

Well written. . Explanation and content are spot on ...

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